Does RC still make these? Are there any solutions that don't break the bank?

Marc

 

RC doesn't make them anymore, not even as a custom/special order. At least, that's what they told me when I called a week ago.

 

i got your answer right here...

ben@importparts.com

he got em and a price you cant beat. if you do, he has a satisfaction guarantee.

 

i'm telling you, RC themselves told me that they no longer make saturated injectors bigger then 440cc, even as a special order. maybe importparts has some lying around, but that would be kinda odd for them.........

but i'd love to be proven wrong. ben?

 

Just a question, do B-series engines use saturated or peak'n'hold type injectors? If the stock injectors used saturated type injectors, for example, and I purchased peak'n'hold type injectors, I would need to use a resistor box in order for them to work with my engine, correct? I'm also interested in purchasing some RC injectors for my JDM B18C turbo project, and want to know what I should buy before getting the wrong thing. I have standalone fuel management. Help is much appreciated, thanks

 

Nathan, I do believe the B series have saturated injectors so if you use peak and hold you will need the resistor box. Good luck with the JDM B18C project!!!

 

Yeah, you need either a resistor box or simply some 10-watt 10 ohm resistors from your local electronics supply to run peak and hold. It's always possible that your standalone can drive peak/hold injectors without any help, too (haltech can do this). There are loads of us running around with peak/hold Mitsubishi 450cc injectors and having a great time.

 

I think that resister box setup is cool, but I don't wanna have to run any more wires in my bay. Its already a vacuum tube/wiring web. If I got resistors could I wire one in each of the injector wires? How much do those beasts run? Oh yeah and I talked to Ben and the 550's he has are peak and hold.

Marc

 

550cc TurboII FC3S RX-7 injectors are saturated.

 

How big are the resistors? Any pics? It seems a cleaner install could be done just wiring one resistor inline for each injector then installing the resistor box.

 

#1 - What other modifications need to be done to run these injectors? Do they fit into the manifold and fuel rail?

#2 - http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...D=538&CATID=41
Would these resistors do the trick? Is it as simple as connecting these to the injector wires?

Marc

 

any one know if a zdyne can controll peak and hold.
if not what is involved to use the 550 peak and hold.
-dont just say a resistor box i know that much. what is one might help and the price.

 

Heres a heads up.

Pretty much ALL honda ECUs need high resistance.
It doesnt matter what honda you have, if you want to use peak hold then
you will need to add resistors, it just so happens that some cars come with
a resistor box.

 

Personally I'd use a stock resistor box over just wiring in inline resistors because:

1) stock are purpose selected for running injectors longterm and
2) the injectors are thermally isolated in a nice big heat sinked box.

Dustin

 

Blitz, makes a high impedance (saturated) top feed 525cc injector. It's $130 each, I think you can get it cheaper at http://www.nrg-racing.com.
http://www.blitz-na.com/Blitz_Injectors.htm

 

And to add to this, the problem is just one of total resistance in the cicuit (for you purists, impedance ). The ECU uses a transistor that can only flow so much current without burning itself up. The lower the resistance the more current flows, hence the need for a 10 ohm resistor in series with the injector and the transistor when using an injector that has a low resistance.

As far as placement, that's totally up to you. I've never felt the heat from one of these, but it shouldn't be too hot if 10 watt resistors are adequate. (10 ohms times 1 amp squared yields 10 watts of power dissipated by the resistor) That 1 amp would be the current required by the injector which should be a good average value, even if the peak current value to initially start the injector opening is higher than that.

So keeping the thought that 10 watts are dissipated, imagine the heat from a 10 watt light bulb. Warm, but still touchable, night lights are usually about 3.5 watts.
Should open it up to mounting just about anywhere, in-line, etc. Most 10 watt resistors are about 1/4 inch square and about an inch to 1.5 inches long, Size can vary.

Any resistor that meets the 10 ohm, 10 watt requirement will work. Some are better than others for an application in an automobile. Looking at a Digikey catalog, their part number 810F-10R-ND is an aluminum housed (housing acts as a heat sink) axial resistor (one lead on each end) with two mounting tabs with screw holes. About an inch long and half an inch high. Should work just fine, preferably mounted as an array of 4 to some metal surface. Their price is $3.62 each dropping all the way down to $2.72 if you buy 100 or more. http://www.digikey.com or 800-344-4539.