Alright so i have a ap1 with 122000 on the dash. I recently purchased the car about a month ago and have almost a full kit laying in my room. The car was babied by the previous owner, no mods, nothing. The motor and car its self runs like it should off the front line so im planning to boost it. Here is what i have and i am planning to get around 450 whp if possible.

Stock ap1 motor
Garret gt28rs .60 with t3 4 bolt housing
Tial 38 mm wastegate
Greddy type s bov
vibrant bar and plate intercooler
treadstone ramhorn turbo manifold
hondata 4 bar map sensor
aem 1052 series 1 ems

I have injectors but they are obd1 525 cc precisions. not sure if these can work or not but if not i plan to get replacements.

Is there anything else i would need to reach 450 hp?
Any input is appreciated

 

i think the 525s are not enough man i would use 650s as a minimum 450 is totally achievable on the f20c, your turbo could be bigger too though. s2k guys are in the 600s easily these days with FI the only reason i say that is because u know 450 will turn into 500 and 500 will turn into 550 and so on lol. just plan your parts with room to grow. I really want an s2k but its not in the budget this year.

 

lol yeah i did some more research and im just going to sell those injectors and get a set of 1000 cc. i already have the turbo though and it is freshly rebuilt. i cant find anywhere how much it can really handle. ive seen 350 hp but idk what that really means. like say its on a b16 with stock 160 hp compared to my f20c with 240 hp. idk im just confused lol. If this turbo can make 450 whp around 15lbs id be happy, and could upgrade it later.

 

i know alot of guys run 6262 on there s2ks and make pretty much whatever they want. i think what youre gonna see is wicked quick spool times but at higher rpm it'll die off, i think between 350 and 400 will be your cap for that turbo, u might wanna try a gt3076r that should get u north of 500 no prob.

 

yeah i might have to do that /:
just dont want to sell a pretty much brand new turbo lol. another quick question, will that 38mm wastegate be ok for that kind of power?

 

yup.

 

im shooting for 400 or slighly north of and im not changing the setup just making stronger and more fuel & boost

 

gt28 on an s2k motor not gonna happen brother. its to much motor for that turbo and thats max hp out of that turbo if your lucky. Also because of the highcompression if your not planning on running a thicker headgasket then you need to be thinking larger turbos for that hp goal. you will need something with a minimum of 61lbs/min out of the compressor and a good flowing turbine wheel to accomodate that engine and that power level.

 

this is true, though i would choose the GT3076R as the alternative for much more usable power range. Even I didn't understand the 61-66lbs/min for only 12psi of boost pressure on S2Ks for 400whp. A GT3076R would fit the bill perfectly if the budget allows. If not, something in the range of 52lbs/min-58lbs/min would work much better than something big.

 

so i should stick with a little bigger turbo? any other reccomendations besides the 6262 and gt30?

 

 

Thank you for the correction Mac

 

how about the 2871 or 2876 with a .82 ar....ive seen dynos of this turbo ona b series making a little over 400 on 23ish psi on race gas thou...it was on evans tuning website.

 

On race gas maybe but when 400 can be done on pump gas why spend the extra on race gas

 

exactly, guys are able to make 740 - 750 on race gas in s2ks but everyone ive seen that high is using a 2 or 3 mm headgasket, which is a question i never found and answer to. how much lower will a 2 and 3 mm headgasket get your compression?

 

its roughly .11815 inches for a 3mm headgasket

Going off a k20 which is 11:1 compression stock same as honda s2000 f20c engine that thick of a headgasket will net you around 8.84:1 compression roughly. and stock internal s2k engine can produce 700+ with the right turbo combination with just a heradgasket replacement and a good tuner.

2mm would be about .07875 inches and would net you 9.63:1 compression, not sure what the stock internals are capable of on that compression ratio though. i would assume 600 range at least

 

wow i had no idea it was that big of a drop, now what about blow out issues on the gasket beacause of the increased thickness. again no one says much about this.

 

i dont think its a problem, plenty of peopel running these and havent seen one where there was a headgasket issue but i cant say for sure. The gasket is made by inlinpro, i would contact them if your intersted in this and get more infor from them. IDK what the gasket is made out of or anything like that and the website doesnt give much info

 

well i was looking at trying this on my teg and i was browsing the cometic website and they say they will make u a gasket for any application and any thickness u want but they use a stainless layering technique, is that like the inline pro. and if this such an easy way to lower compression why isnt everyone doing this on their boosted cars.

 

that's because evan's dyno reads a bit high, although he is a fantastic tuner/builder.. that GT2871R is about 40lbs/min. That is good for a road racing setup for about 320whp or so with a very linear powerband, but 400whp, no. That's stretched to the max and not a good street turbo application.

GT2876R is a little closer at 48lbs/min, but a GT3251b or even a T3/T04B 50 trim would be at that airflow and would make about 400whp at over 20psi. Still. not for the street, but good for the circuit.

 

Just lowering compression on a b series is completely different then on the f20c. The f20c comes stock with forged internals and b series is cast 350whp is the limit for a reliable setup on stock internals on a b series regardless of compression ratio

 

gotcha so were back to internals, i wish they would have made forged internals in at least itr and ctr, op i envy you ive probably read more on your car than my own, hope all goes well and u build a bitchin roadster.

 

Yes but internals aren't that costly and allow you to run up to 500whp reliably with a good tune

 

im sold im gonna price out internals i just watched a youtube vid of a guy doin his without pullin the motor and in like 2 days, i just bought rc 750s and i know im gonna use em, i wanted to try and stay stock but screw it pistons, rods and head studs are being ordered before i wreck the block. im not afraid of gettin into it just wish i could do it over the winter because once i get my car back all i wanna do is drive it. god i wish i had a bigger garage and my car was in it so i could do this all when its cold.

 

If you put in pistons and rods you need to pull the block. It needs to be bored and honed to accept the new pistons. You could do 81mm pistons and just on it but it's oing o have a lot of piston slap. Do more research before you start buying parts