Lately I've been having a problem with my rpm's dropping really low and stalling when coming to a stop. My car is tuned properly and I've never had this problem until lately. Possible IACV problem or would a clogged cat converter have something to do with it? I'm at a loss, any help is greatly appreaciated.

 

the same thing happens with my car, i'm not sure why it does it. it doesnt do it every time. the idle drops down kinda low almost everytime but it doesnt always stall. i usually just give it a little gas before the rpms drop all the way and it usually helps it to not stall but if i'm trying to stop kinda fast its hard to do clutch brake and gas so it does stall sometimes. if anyone knows why it does this or something i can try to do to make it stop it would be appreciated.

 

check how your plugs are doing.

 

Plugs look good. I checked em when doing a compression test last week which also looked stellar.

 

your probably going to need to give a little more info on your setup then

 

i bet you have a light *** fly wheel huh?

 

What engine management? get your idle tuned again.

 

Ok where do I start, The flywheel is a 7 lb Fidanza, The car is tuned with Techtom(Japanese software widely used) turbo kit is a Edelbrock kit tuned to 9 lbs. From what I understand tunes don't go bad so why would my idle all of a sudden need to be altered. I've been boosted for 2 years now and never had this problem until lately. I'm still at a loss, gonna clean out the IACV and see if it makes any difference. Anyone else have any input?

 

Depending on where you live my car idle and driving always changes with the seasons. I tune myself so it's easy but I like to throw a new tune on every couple months or so to make sure it's still running correctly. Other problem areas that effect idle though are IACV, Vacuum leak, timing, if it's not throwing any codes, you're just going to have to go searching under the hood for problems.

 

Thanks for the input. It's holding boost well so I don't think a vacume leak is the problem but I'm gonna check the IACV and if that doesn't work it's off to the tuner I go.

 

my car has similar problems, however it starts and idles fine its just after driving when stopping when the rpms drop they drop down kinda low and sometimes it stalls out. if i tap the gas pedal a little right before the rpms fully drop down then it usually wont stall out. my car is tuned on uberdata and it was tuned in like 40 degree weather its like upper 70's -low 90's around here now. but doesnt uberdata have an iat correction?

 

Anyone figure out what the cause of this one was, I am having the same problem with my setup

97 GSR JRSC @ 10lbs
RC 440's
Hondata S200
Fidanza 9lb Flywheel
Spoon Throttle Body

 

i fixed mine by raising the idle a little

 

Anyone else have this problem?

 

mine drops down in idle for a split sec. then it idle up just fine. it idles down ever now and then but thats all mine does on the idle problem b16/stroker

 

I had it on my old DA. Turns out that the idle adjustment screw got loose. I took it out, put some threadlocker on it and re-installed. Fixed the problem.

 

It happened to my car too.

Its your vacuum pressure.....its not being dispersed evenly.

When you press on the brakes, the brake master cylinder uses vacuum pressure. And it takes it out of other places (ie. boost gauge line, BOV vac line). If a section anywhere in those lines has no vac pressure it will cause RPM's to drop and engine to stall.

A solution would be a "vacuum manifold". So all the vac pressure is always dispersed evenly throughout the lines. (See pic below):



DAN

 

Hmmm that's a good idea, seems to be only us "boost" guys having this problem, anyone know how much these things cost, Also I am running out of room in my engine bay, LOL Stop showing me cool parts to buy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carbonlaced &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmmm that's a good idea, seems to be only us "boost" guys having this problem, anyone know how much these things cost, Also I am running out of room in my engine bay, LOL Stop showing me cool parts to buy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They cost about $30-40. They are not that big (2"x4"). It has ports for items such as fuel pressure regulator, blow-off valve, MAP sensor, boost controller, boost gauge and any other engine components that require a vacuum source.

Get that and your idle problems will go away.

DAN

 

Sick, That Rocks

 

I had the same problem after my new motor/turbo install. My tuner just raised my idle a little bit I believe to level the problem. But that vacum theory makes sense as I'm sure for alot of you, and myself, the rpm's dip up and down at idle. I just assumed the vacum manifolds were to make the wiring more organized, never though that it would level the vacum. definetly going to get one!

 

I think after this thread, so many more people will be ordering them from Golden Eagle lol.

Now for the hard part, figuring out which color I want, I see they even have red now lol

 

I fixed the same problem for myself last year, turned out it was the vaccum problem. I just bought one from mcmaster.com for 16 bucksUS. Never had the problem again.

 

i have that same problem even with a golden eagle vacuum manifold, maybe my iacv just needs to be cleaned

 

used to have that problem and I adjusted the fuel psi slightly and problem gone