so im curious as to what everyone is using for rad caps on there boosted
hondas, im using a spoon rad cap with pressure of 1.3 but i still have problems
with the cap not holding the pressure under boost... 2 pulls on the dyno and the
overflow bottle will be full. so fill me in, what kinda caps are you using, and do
you ever experience this problem

 

I use w/e cap that came with my Fluidyne Radiator, I ran an OEM cap temporarily too when I lost the Fluidyne cap and never had a issue.

 

hmm.. maybe my spoon one is just ****ed

 

i use the mishimoto rad cap that came with the rad

 

Oem

 

Sounds like you are having a headgasket problem or headlift, nothing to do with your rad cap.

 

you think so stine?

 

What are the head bolts tourqued down to? Have you always had this problem or is this something new? Does the car smoke? Whats the oil look like?

 

not sure what they are torqued to, im just txting my builder as we speak.. i guess its not a new problem, we just did head gasket not long ago, prolly 4 months, we havnt pulled it apart again to re-torque tho, so i think we both just agreed thats what well do.. but problem before was it was getting to hot, i thought it was casue i had the coolant running through the turbo, so i disconnected the lines off the turbo, but now its still filling my overflow each run.

 

I'm sure the builder will take care of you and have the problem looked over and dealt with. Sure does sound like headlift. Let us know how it goes.

 

What "stine" said. I have never had any problems with the radiator cap.

 

Your head is lifting, if you havent put studs in or had them retorqued since the install its most likely your problem

 

i've never retorqued headstuds. i don't recall the arp instructions saying so either.

 

well either way, thats the route were going to take, should be getting done next week, ill keep you guys posted as to if thats the problem. my money is on that though.

 

[QUOTE=96 GSR-T;37829927]I use w/e cap that came with my Fluidyne RadiatorQUOTE]
x2

 

alright guys, so retorqued the head just yesterday, but still have the problem with under full boost (14lbs) the coolant rushes into the reservoir. and for some reason.. dosnt ever suck back into the rad? lemme know your input on the situation

 

sounds like you have a blown headgasket.

 

maybe over heated and head warped some how your having problems where air is getting pushed into radiator

 

Ok,

you have a blown headgasket or a leak in your system. guaranteed. And more than anything i bet it's the head lifting that cause the blown gasket. you wont be able to do a compression test to find this out

When you changed the headgasket, did you get the head resurfaced? If you didnt that's probably your problem also make sure the top of the block is clean?

You need to pull the head back off and put a new gasket on with a resurfacing.

I run a Autozone 1.1 cap...lol $6.00. I had the same problem and it was resolved when i change my headgasket with a resurface and ARP headstuds with a cheap cap.

coolant fills like it should and pulls back into the system like it should.

 

hmm yeah we did the headgasket, cometic oem thickness, copper sprayed, everything got cleaned thuroughly, head got resurfaced.. its got arp mainstuds and headstuds..and we figured it was headlift so we took it apart yesterday and re torqued the head.. but clearly no solution.

 

Have you tried a new cap?

 

I went out of my way to buy a Blitz radiator cap because I thought it was "mad JDm fat yo", but I was going through the same problem you were. my OEM cap just looked......well plain. but in all I ended up going back to my OEM cap, and thank goodness I did. with some of these caps, your just buying into the hype. try an OEM.

 

Normally once it lifts, no re torquing it will seal it.

Pull the head, flat edge it, install new gasket, use some copper spray if you like, tq down the head studs in steps to 80lbs w moly lube, problem fixed.

Sounds like your builder tq'd the studs to spec, which is a no go being a boosted engine.

 

I've no idea what APR says but my builder/tuner always told me to go 80lb with moly.

 

arp says torque to 80, we called. i dunno, ill give another cap a chance, but im pretty convinced the head was never machined proporly in the first place, as far as i can remember ive been dealing with overheating under boost SINCE we did the haedgasket, and we did it all correctly, took our time, made sure everything was clean. i dunno, we have a newer head that were gunna send to get machined and prolly next week well pull mine and re-install it. keep you guys updated on any progresss! Thanks for all the comments and info