Question about oil pump
I'm working on building a d16z6 for boost, 250-300whp, reliably is my goal. I need to know what oil pump to run, from what I've read, I wont really benefit from an aftermarket one with different specs, so I want an oem style one. I have one from the engine that is oem, and I have no reason to believe has any issues. My question really is, is the oil pump the type of part that wears down, or is a 200,000 mile oem oil pump just as good as a new oem one, and how bad would it be to get one off rock auto. And please tell me objectively why, tell me what about the part could be warn down, not just "a newer part will be better because its not old".
Gerotor style pumps ingest damaging particles which score the inside of the pump housing... reducing the efficiency of the pump over time. If you open up your original one and by some miracle there isn't a single groove, score, or burn... then run it. If you want the best you can have, but a brand new OE Honda pump. Forget the Rock Auto idea. If you port the new pump, it will work at higher engine RPM without cavitating.
There is a clearance spec on the OEM pumps. If you want you can open it up and check the clearance, but my guess is you'll be at the upper limit. Also, as JRCivic1 said, chances are it has had some material go through it at some point in its life. It's peace of mind to spend $150 on a new OEM unit.
I've had good and bad luck with OEM pumps and with aftermarket pumps. For my Accord, I originally bought an OEM pump, but it was machined incorrectly (see here). I returned it for another and it had the same issue. It must have been a bad batch of them. So, I decided to buy one from Melling - that pump fit great and continues to give me good service in my daily driver (60K+ miles on that Melling pump so far). After that, when it was time to build my Civic's engine, I went with Melling right out of the gates. Fitment was bad - it protruded below the block/oil pan mating surface by about 0.04", and the oil pan gasket wasn't going to seal. I ate the cost on that since I had already covered it in sealant, and turned around and bought OEM. The OEM one fit great on the Civic and has stood up to high horsepower for several years. Having said that, I recommend going for an OEM pump first if it's available.
I've had good and bad luck with OEM pumps and with aftermarket pumps. For my Accord, I originally bought an OEM pump, but it was machined incorrectly (see here). I returned it for another and it had the same issue. It must have been a bad batch of them. So, I decided to buy one from Melling - that pump fit great and continues to give me good service in my daily driver (60K+ miles on that Melling pump so far). After that, when it was time to build my Civic's engine, I went with Melling right out of the gates. Fitment was bad - it protruded below the block/oil pan mating surface by about 0.04", and the oil pan gasket wasn't going to seal. I ate the cost on that since I had already covered it in sealant, and turned around and bought OEM. The OEM one fit great on the Civic and has stood up to high horsepower for several years. Having said that, I recommend going for an OEM pump first if it's available.
Wait one more question, if I want to build it to rev to 9000+ (i get it that d series arent all that great for this but If I did head work and am boosted I should be able to make power up there) Would the oem oil pump work? Or would I need to have it ported? How high can I safely rev the stock oil pump?
Safe enough to where you won't need to worry about 9000rpms. (No matter what you do to the head). You won't need shims or ports or anything for that kind of power.
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I bought an OEM pump at a local salvage yard, and after a couple of months, the engine started knocking. Insufficient pressure. I had to replace the pump with a new one. So, it's better not to skimp on this.
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