passing emmisions in ct
So how many people have issues passing emissions in ct, with turbo vehicles. it being a full build, and full tune. all done right not half assed or any corners cut.
Won't happen. I know a few people in the same predicament as you in CT that have fought with this for months. Either A)Get the car registered in another state that doesn't have it or B) time to find a "modified-friendly" smog facility. Otherwise, go back to stock and test or sell the car. It won't happen. You gotta start reading the laws and understand other users before you heavily modify there. its becoming as bad as the dreaded California.
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if the car is OBD1 it gets sniffed. If your running a catalytic converter on the car it should pass with a good tune meaning lean and some added timing. My old stock ls turbo passed just barely on a horrible tune i slaped on the thing in a few hours driving and tuning the car by my self.
I currently am do for emissions but im confident with my current tune and a converter with a little more timing at the test rpm/mph it will pass no problem
If you need help contact me via pm
I currently am do for emissions but im confident with my current tune and a converter with a little more timing at the test rpm/mph it will pass no problem
If you need help contact me via pm
Yeah OBDI should be NO PROBLEM in CT... the worst they can get your for on most cars is the Crank Case Ventilation... but if they do just run a hose from where the filter should go to the intake tube on the turbo and it's same as factory... then pull it off when you're done with Emissions.
Most places probably wouldn't even notice. The dudes they have doing emissions aren't exactly state representatives... they just want their 20bucks.
Also the emissions are only done for upto 3000 or 3500rpm's so that part of your map should be close to if not completely stock.
Most places probably wouldn't even notice. The dudes they have doing emissions aren't exactly state representatives... they just want their 20bucks.
Also the emissions are only done for upto 3000 or 3500rpm's so that part of your map should be close to if not completely stock.
thanks, i will be running a legit dyno tune, so the tune shouldnt be an issue, probly going to run a cat anyways, like a highflow cops in my town hate loud exhuast so if i dont have one then its more fore them to pull me over, even if i some reason no cat i would obviously throw one in to get emmisions.
and as far as the cranks case ventilation, your talking about the breather valves correct? if so the place i go to dont give two *****, i walked in saying i wasnt going to pass with my shitty exhuast (leaks like a bitch) and overall car should not ahve, but it some how did. only problem i ahd was the swap, cause i didnt have the sheet dmv sent me, so they had to call dmv.
and a note to anyone who knows ppl that pass ppl, be carfull as soon as the test begins at any certified facility DMV camereas switch on and if they want to they can see everything going on in the shop, and can watch what comes up on the computers so be carfull.
and it is obd1
and as far as the cranks case ventilation, your talking about the breather valves correct? if so the place i go to dont give two *****, i walked in saying i wasnt going to pass with my shitty exhuast (leaks like a bitch) and overall car should not ahve, but it some how did. only problem i ahd was the swap, cause i didnt have the sheet dmv sent me, so they had to call dmv.
and a note to anyone who knows ppl that pass ppl, be carfull as soon as the test begins at any certified facility DMV camereas switch on and if they want to they can see everything going on in the shop, and can watch what comes up on the computers so be carfull.
and it is obd1
Emission stations in CT do not care what is under the hood of the car. They do a visual of the cat and check the gas cap. On OBD1 cars the do an ASM test (Sniffer). On older cars I tell them to input a bigger engine size.
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Dont stress it. I passed emissions in a catless B16 in my hatch like 4 years ago and then when i bought the car back i boosted it and the same day i drove it to the local emissions station and still passed.
Ct uses a sniffer for OBD1. As long as the car is not too rich, it will pass 100%
Make sure your CEL is not on. Even tho it is obd1, they will still not let u even go through if it is on.
Ct uses a sniffer for OBD1. As long as the car is not too rich, it will pass 100%
Make sure your CEL is not on. Even tho it is obd1, they will still not let u even go through if it is on.
Where are you dyno tuning it BTW?
I work for a racing company and i know of alot of GOOD tuners around here. But for the best bang for the $$ Take it to miller at NRG Tech. Alot of locals go down there to him and his tunes are phenomenal.
I work for a racing company and i know of alot of GOOD tuners around here. But for the best bang for the $$ Take it to miller at NRG Tech. Alot of locals go down there to him and his tunes are phenomenal.
me personally i feel i would be able to get the best tune out of a dyno tune, idk why, it seems like in a longevity factor it would be safer, i mean if someone can prove me wrong by all means open me to knew ideas.
I was referijg to the op not you shodan sorry
yes it's for the whole load range but I still feel fine tuning on the driveability is done on the street with real world load And wind resistance not just rollers
yes it's for the whole load range but I still feel fine tuning on the driveability is done on the street with real world load And wind resistance not just rollers
i do understand that, but at the same time, i feel you can safely be able to tune the car in a safer environment, and i thought most tuning is done in third and fourth gear pulls to redline, and where can you legally do a FULL fourth gear pull. cause i remember my fourth gear topping out around 110ish, so thats why im going to go with a dyno tune.
I got a built turbo motor and straight 3" exhaust w/ a fake visual cat and I passed. I did use a product call "Gauranteed to Pass Emissions" and ran that through 1 tank of gas before testing. I recommend that as it's only $12 at Advanced Auto and worked for me. If you want to know the name of the shop I did it at pm me, but everything was legit.
theres a ashop straight down the road from me and there nice, they know me fairly well now, and they know my uncle realllly good (whos been in body work for 30+ years) so i can get them to try there hardest to make sure it will pass.
as for the CEL on obd1 a CEL on isnt automatically fail, thats only for obd2. it depends on what the cel is for, cause i got my emmisions done and i was throwing a vtec pressure switch code, and a knock sensor and i passed.
as for the CEL on obd1 a CEL on isnt automatically fail, thats only for obd2. it depends on what the cel is for, cause i got my emmisions done and i was throwing a vtec pressure switch code, and a knock sensor and i passed.
I'm good. Just curious. I had totem an oil pan for b series from there a few years back. Did they ever fix the design? The mounting flange was paper thin and leaked like a siv and the manager at the time didn't want to listen to me about how to repair it. What a mess I ended up having to drop another couple hundred on a moroso
I'm good. Just curious. I had totem an oil pan for b series from there a few years back. Did they ever fix the design? The mounting flange was paper thin and leaked like a siv and the manager at the time didn't want to listen to me about how to repair it. What a mess I ended up having to drop another couple hundred on a moroso
Moroso owns the rights to the only B series cores and it will cost us thousands to even get the dies for one made.
Im trying to kick start the import world over there. The engineer is so stcuk up about old muscle that he forgets that imports generate millions of dollars of sales every year.
The pan it sel was well made just the flange need to be thicker. That could be done without a die just make thicker mounting flange and you would have a great pan
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