OMG!!!

 

how you manage doing that? too much boost? if so,how many psi?

 

Should it be resleeved or can I find a B20 block for cheap?


[Modified by SCREWD, 6:00 AM 12/12/2001]

 

you are screwd.

 

royally

 

that block is finished,you cracked right thru to the water jacket,so a sleeve wouldnt fix it cause the outer shell that holds the sleeve cant be repaired once its cracked like that...you really are screwd,start looking for another block

 

Ouch! Damn man, just happen all of a sudden or did you just now start boostin?

 

Are you sure???

 

I dont think that can be fixed. Screwd is a good name for you. I hope you get something to get back on the road.

art

 

damn

 

yep, just like everyone said that block is just an oversized paperweight now

 

Anyone know of a good source of B20 blocks in So. Cal.???

 

There is a guy in N. Cali that sells the entire long block for $900. I dont remember his name but do a search in the classifieds.

art

 

Oh gawd.....images just like that were imprinted in my mind 2 years ago. A nightmare it was..

 

I have a B17 in my garage. Can this be bored and sleeved to same size as B20 (84mm)?
Would this be better to do? What crank and rods should I use if I use the B17 bored out?

 

That looks like it cracked from the top of the sleeves, it doesnt appear to have cracked further down if i'm not mistaken, so how come people always say it cracks down the bore while infact it cracks at the top of the sleeve? this is evidence why you should invest on a blockguard if your low on cash!

 

Time for a new block, buy another short block or long block.. buy it from a reputable company or person though... for sure not off ebay or one of those type places.... this time get sleeves, Why weren't you running sleeves to begin with..

 

seeing that pool of coolant reminds me of that episode of the Simpsons where they come to Springfield to film the Radioactive Man movie. The one scene where he is tied up and needs Fallout boy to come and rescue him from the burning hot acid. "My eyes! The goggles do nu-ting!"

 

Kabir,
thicker sleves would be the better investment. Sleves always crack from the top down, why? Maximum cylinder pressure is at Top Dead Center TDC. This is where combustion takes place at TDC so a block gaurd IMO is not a good idea. A block guard will NOT heat engine temp, but what is does do is keep the heat up at TDC where the fuel, air, and spark is at which invites detonation. Im trying to think of an elementry example to make things simple, but I cant.

art

 

do you know what compression ratio you were running? from the looks of your pistons, it seems kinda high for a b20-vtec turbo application.

 

Hmm, You get mixed responses from different people, all Im saying is some sites say the blockguard is useless because the stress is not at top of the sleeves but down due to a bad R/S ratio. I think the block cracked due to detonation, when detonation occured for example the peak cylinder pressures is doubled leading to a recipe for disaster. In this case blockguard or not it cracked. I have not seen one cracked block with a blockguard only heard of cooling problems which I don't have.


[Modified by LsTurbo91, 11:42 PM 12/11/2001]

 

Those to me look like around 10 to 10.5 compression .. I could be wrong.. maybe 9.0 or 9.5 but it looks like 10 something

 

Let me ask you a question, Have you looked at your plugs lately?

 

Ive been sitting here at work with a note pad and Im making a diagram to help understand. This may confuse some by what Im gonna say, but block does help support the sleves. Will you have heating problems(engine temp)? Probably not. So why am I against it? I'll try to explain the whole process when Im done with the diagrams. This is harder to explain than I had expected.

art