Okay I live in phoenix and it’s hot as hell. I’ve been over heating on the freeway in the day time and night now. As soon as I get off the freeway I’m fine. I’m going off the stock temp gauge. I replaced the thermostat 3 months ago, just replaced radiator with a aluminum radiator, new hoses, new cap, new coolant, bleed it correctly, new temp sending sensor, new slim line fan 2000cfm and it blowing in the correct direction. And I have spacer on the hood so it kinda a cowl. What next? Timing belt? Water pump? Gauge cluster? Thermostat?

1995 Black Honda Civic Ex Coupe
Under the hood
•99’ Honda B16a2
•00’ Gsr Cams
•ACT heavy duty six puck clutch
•Prothane Motor mounts inserts
•Drag High flow 4 into 1 cast iron turbo exhaust manifold
•Precision Sc61 turbocharger assembly
•Turbonetics Deltagate Mark II Wastegate
•Drag High Flow front mount intercooler
•Greddy Tpye- S Blow Off Valve
•Walbro 255 Lph fuel pump
•Rc 550cc Injectors
•Cometic .078 81mm Head gasket
•Arp headstuds
•AEM Tru-Time adjustable cam gears
•Golden Eagle vacuum manifold
•Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator
•Tuned on Crome Pro

 

maybe try another new thermostat... OEM.

does it use coolant at all?

 

do you mean lose coolant? if it does very little.

 

bump

 

What fans are you running? I had the same problem this is what I did


new radiator -fluidyne
radiator cap- got a 19psi(fluidyne)
thermostat- jackson racing (cooler-opens sooner)
fan- fal with a switch to bypass factory thermo switch when needed!

 

make sure your fans are spinning the right way, sooooo many ppl have this problem and think its going the right way

 

try shorting your radiator fan switch so it runs all the time,
then see if its pushing air the right way (i.e. pushing air into the engine bay)

 

could be too much timing, have your tunner take off some timing around your highway rpm range at normal driving.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg:R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could be too much timing, have your tunner take off some timing around your highway rpm range at normal driving.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tuned the car...Timing is VERY conservative...

It was 115 Deg yesterday, the air here is very stagnet...I really dont' think its an issue of something being wrong with the car or cooling system. The intercooler blocks all flow to the radiator...the turbo parts put off alot of heat that stays trapped in the engine bay...

 

yea, it only started to over heat in the summer, like jesse and i said its hot as hell.
how do you jump the fans? i think im going to get a new gauge cluster, new timing belt and water pump just to be safe.

 

try puttng a fan in front of the radiator and like igo4bmx said run a swicth to it and have it run at all times. Also try putting washers on the hood latches where the bolts screw into the hood. That should help vent out some heat in the engine compartment.

 

honestly I think its the gauge cluster, because now its over heating at night since I put that new sending unit in, if I turn the car off for 3 secs while I’m on the freeway and back on, the temp drops 15%-25% then goes back up, and if I’m not on the freeway and just on the streets and start boosting the temp doesn’t go up, I would think it would be hotter off the freeway and boosting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcivicb16a2sc61 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea, it only started to over heat in the summer, like jesse and i said its hot as hell.
how do you jump the fans? i think im going to get a new gauge cluster, new timing belt and water pump just to be safe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

find the coolant fan sensor plug (i forget the exact name)- you plug in a paper clip to "short it" and it will run all the time.

 

First i would get an autometer temp gauge...if its still overheating you can try adding Redline Water Wetter to your coolant.....good for 10-30 degree drop in engine temps..and have the fans on all the time...just jump the fan switch

 

Also use distilled water. Straight water cools better than coolant.

 

does it have to be autometer temp gauge? or would it matter if it was a different brand?

 

it can be a different brand ....but i always used autometer because there reliable and not to expensive...an electrical water temp gauge would run you like 75$..you could go with a different brand but dont get something cheap like apc or the autozone special sunpro

 

I had this problem in AZ also I was using a slim line fan and it didn't cut the mustard day or night...For most AZ people they are going to run into this, cuz I did, we're burning up cuz our weather. The slim line fans(no shroud) do not utilize all the radiator which allows a lot of heat to slip pass the cooling area.. I used a 10" slim line but then switched to a FAL 12" which has a shroud and pulls all air through the fluidyne at 1200cfm. This dropped all tempe immediately. How big of a slim line fan are you using?

 

Wow and I thought it got hot here in FL, good luck man I hope you fix your issue. My bro had this problem, He has a stepdeck sleeved block and he was losing coolant through the cometic headgasket, which was not meant for stepdeck; so he switched to an OEM headgasket. Don't think thats your issue though. Good luck!

 

**** I heard pheonix gets like 110. have you flushed the radiator and used water wetter...?? or what every that product name is..??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-meet07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** I heard pheonix gets like 110</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm 110 is just the begining. Its like 90's at 8:30 am

In the valley our cars are overheated before we start them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redwidow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm 110 is just the begining. Its like 90's at 8:30 am

In the valley our cars are overheated before we start them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

dude that sucks

 

Hey man i don't know if this is something you would want to do but this well help with the cooling. Take you thermo out and take the gutts out and install the flat ring of the thermo back in, the reason you put the ring back is to slow down the flow of the coolant a little this will help, but when it's cold your heat may not work that well but it helps in the summer. Just a ideal, hope it helps. And you sould not need heat much where you live.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marcussmith26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey man i don't know if this is something you would want to do but this well help with the cooling. Take you thermo out and take the gutts out and install the flat ring of the thermo back in, the reason you put the ring back is to slow down the flow of the coolant a little this will help, but when it's cold your heat may not work that well but it helps in the summer. Just a ideal, hope it helps. And you sould not need heat much where you live.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doing this will also make his car warm up alot slower.

 

I have a 12" Cooling FanS-Blade style which is rated at 2000 cfm and now its jump to stay on all the time, and today it still overheated......might get a jdm gauge cluster and ebay special water temp gauge soon.