D series built block and head. T3/T4 turbo, 750cc ID, factory dizzy. Oil temp gets to 250°F. I am a little worried. New oil 5w 30 Amsoil. When I shut the engine off, I see a bit of smoke coming from the turbo. I would feel better if the temp didn't get over 220ish.
Any ideas?

 

Oil cooler?

 

Is that typical? I knew that was an option. But I am limited on space. 91 hatch. The intercooler is blocking a lot of air, too. Also, the turbo has the water ports that I am not using.

 

If the turbo has water ports they must be used or you will damage the turbo and have hotter oil temps

 

Update
This morning,I drove to work with the fan on the whole time. The temp never got over 220. Makes me think the intercooler is blocking most of the air.

 

Ofcourse it is. That oil temp is definitely way to high for comfort. Highly suggest an oil cooler or a larger volume oil pan

 

What oil temperature is typical for our boosted Hondas anyway? And what is acceptable?

 

190-210 Is 'normal'
250 is the upper limit of acceptable
300 will begin to break down the oil

 

Well, oil temp got to 250 this afternoon which in turn makes the water temp get too high and the check engine light comes on. Will adding an oil cooler help the water temp stay down since the air passing through the intercooler is hot also?

 

My boosted F22 will very rarely see 210. And that's only after I've been ******* on it A LOT. 190-195 is average for me. Barely ever goes above 200.

 

an oil cooler will lower the oil temp,which means less heat transferred into the coolant.

 

SMH. Just realized my turbo drain line to the oil pan is 10an size which is 3/8". I was told it needs to be 12an which is 1/2". Maybe the problem the whole time. It's not letting the oil out of the turbo fast enough which is causing excessive heat.

 

No sir.. -10AN is standard., it lets the oil out plenty fast. What you've been told is incorrect.. by a long shot

 

have you thought bout a thicker fluid. 10w30 maybe

 

When performing at operating temperatures and above, just going to a "thicker weight" doesn't really do much to help his situation at all. at operating temperatures, whether he's 5w30 or 10w30, at operating temperatures, it would become the same level of viscosity. The difference is just at cold start what its going to do to lubricate the bearings of the engine.

The OP hasn't yet described when he's exactly hitting these higher oil temperatures. He hasn't described if it seems to "spike up" to 250*F when under heavy engine load or acceleration, or if this is just casual driving, and the oil temperature is staying at this temperature. He also hasn't stated his purpose for the car (HPDE, Drag racing, street/strip, etc), so that will have relevance here as well.

Yes, an oil cooler can help, but let's see what conditions this is occurring before we just start throwing parts at the car.

 

My commute to work is 20 minutes mostly interstate at 70 to 80 mph(3000 rpms). After ten minutes or fifteen it gets to 250 and stays. Daily driver rarely sees wot and 8 pounds of boost. T3/T4, big intercooler. The oil drain only slopes about an inch (8 inches long) to the oil pan.

 

That's hot. Something isn't right. It's not like your auto crossing the car and at high rpm for extended periods.

 

something is wrong, but it's still not a bad idea to have a cooler on a boosted car

 

I agree. As I have one. But something else is wrong, as for these types of commutes and low engine loads (boost pressure means nothing in this case). I'm wondering if he has ultra conservative timing, (which causes higher cylinder pressures, which becomes higher engine heat.) But this is more than a radiator blockage or coolant issue, and this issue has NOTHING to do with the return line you have from the turbo.

 

This post got me thinking about my car, and even though im not boosted, the cruising situation should be similar to op and mine.
Cruising ar 3500-4000rpm (b16 trans) im seeing oil temps climb to around 240ish after about the same time (15min)
At its peak oil temp of 240, iats read 134, coolant reads 193. Timing is stock, afr are dead on for cruise.

Im either thinking the excessive ambient temps are causing it or my header is causing excessive heat being transfered to my pan since its just about touching the pan (it fits pretty tight)

B18a1
10.7:1 comp
Stock head.

Driving around town it never goes higher than 220.

Not trying to thread jack but im hoping maybe our issues are similar enough to possibly come up with a solution for both our cars.

 

^^ you don't have nearly as much an issue as the OP, from what you're describing with your situation.

 

SMH... I just wanted to correct this right here and now... The AN and SAE scales are based in 1/16 of an inch ratios. Just in case that doesn't make sense:

-1 AN = 1/16"
-6 AN = 6/16" or 3/8"
-8 AN = 8/16" or 1/2"
-10 AN = 10/16" or 5/8"
-12 AN = 12/16" or 3/4"
-16 AN = 16/16" or 1"
-20 AN = 20/16" or 1.25"

FTFY.

 

right on. ive been known to use 5/16 rubber efi hose with -6 connections with no leaks because im a cheap ***.

op- as stated thats way to hot. maybe its in the tune? 15:1 afr might be kosher for light cruising around town but you might wanna go into the mid 14's? for highway cruise? idk just tossing ideas around.

i know i can see 220-230 on the highway and i hate it, but thats after 45+ minutes of driving.


do you have an exhaust gas temp gauge?

 

Something is wrong, oil temps should never get anywhere near 250 when cruising on the highway under light load.

airflow across the radiator doesn't really matter as that has no bearing on oil temps.

Either your part throttle afr is too lean causing high EGTs, your downpipe is too close to the oil pan with no thermal protection, or there's a bigger issue.

heat wrap your downpipe for starters, you need an egt gauge to figure out what your light load cruise egt is, 15:1 is way too lean... it should be somewhere in the 13-14 range.

an oil cooler will help but it needs clean cold air to work, you can't put it behind the intercooler and radiator, it needs to be in front. if you can't put it there then put it behind the bumper, put a duct over it and feed it air using a ducted fan

where are you reading oil temp? best place is the pan.

 

if the cooling system isnt working right, then the oil will have to carry that excessive heat away, it wont hurt to go through the cooling system and check everything. I'll have to post how I did my oil cooler setup with a blower mounted in the bumper corner, I've been telling people for years to somehow insulate that downpipe that runs under the pan, one of the hottest pipes in the exhaust almost touches the oil pan