Oil return line issues, need some advice...
I have a moroso oil pan, fullrace style
ramhorn turbo mani, phoenix turbo IC piping. Problem is my charge piping that connects to the compressor housing hits the oil return line to where the piping is forced to sit 3" off the ground at some wierd angle if i even want it to get proper clamping from the t-bolt clamp....
The inlet on the oil pan is the higher of the two fittings on the moroso oil pan. If i move it to the bottom fitting, i will have no clearance issues and life will be great. BUT, i think i remember reading somewhere that it is bad to have the oil return line inlet towards the bottom of the oil pan. Something about oil airation (sp?) Can anyone verify this? This is my only option at this point, other than a full race back door style IC.
thanks to all that help me out on this.
ramhorn turbo mani, phoenix turbo IC piping. Problem is my charge piping that connects to the compressor housing hits the oil return line to where the piping is forced to sit 3" off the ground at some wierd angle if i even want it to get proper clamping from the t-bolt clamp....The inlet on the oil pan is the higher of the two fittings on the moroso oil pan. If i move it to the bottom fitting, i will have no clearance issues and life will be great. BUT, i think i remember reading somewhere that it is bad to have the oil return line inlet towards the bottom of the oil pan. Something about oil airation (sp?) Can anyone verify this? This is my only option at this point, other than a full race back door style IC.
thanks to all that help me out on this.
doesnt matter how i clock anything. The -10 fitting on the inlet for the oil pan interferes with the charge piping, even a sharp 90* AN fitting wont help.
Post a picture up and it will be easier to try to help you...
In my experience, there is always a way to make it work, even if you have to cut pipes, clock the turbo, buy new fittings etc... but it's hard to tell you what needs to happen without actually seeing it...
In my experience, there is always a way to make it work, even if you have to cut pipes, clock the turbo, buy new fittings etc... but it's hard to tell you what needs to happen without actually seeing it...
Another thing, you said since there is no baffle, oil can travel back into the oil return line, how is that any different if its mounted 2 inches higher like it is now? and why is that bad? Under any type of braking the oil will do the same thing, plus my oil level in the pan is a little higher than the higher fitting that of which im currently using...
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you can upload the pictures on there and post them here
pictures help out so much in problems like these
good luck
you can upload the pictures on there and post them here
pictures help out so much in problems like these
good luck
well aside from the pictures....
Why is it bad to have the return line inlet at the bottom of the pan? Like i said above, i see no difference aside from position. The oil can still slosh back into the return under braking no matter which inlet bung i use...
Why is it bad to have the return line inlet at the bottom of the pan? Like i said above, i see no difference aside from position. The oil can still slosh back into the return under braking no matter which inlet bung i use...
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I would clock the compressor forward a bit and go behind the charge pipe, use a 45 off the turbo and another 45 into the pan... you might have to cut and reweld your charge pipe but the last thing you want is oil problems with a new turbo...
i thought about clockin it as well, the oil feed is at 1000 and the return is at 400, not too thrilled abuot that. Also, not too thrilled about choppin my IC piping anf messing with that... becuase if i clock it so the feed line is 1200 and return is 600, that makes the compressor outlet point towards the front of the vehicle, clearing the return inlet fitting, yes, but then i have to severly F with my charge piping..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would clock the compressor forward a bit and go behind the charge pipe, use a 45 off the turbo and another 45 into the pan... you might have to cut and reweld your charge pipe but the last thing you want is oil problems with a new turbo...
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that's what i did.
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that's what i did.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls1 FD3s »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got it PERFECT. il post pics shortly.
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Nice to hear it!
Let's see the pics! I want to see what you ended up doing...
</TD></TR></TABLE>Nice to hear it!
Let's see the pics! I want to see what you ended up doing...
i clocked the turbo and went with dual 90* fittings that face towards the driverside.

In the pic i dont have the charge piping perfectly inline with the compressor housing. When lined up 100%, the charge pipe sits higher than the lower radiator core support, which means EXCELLENT ground clearance and the FMIC will line up perfect with the piping in front.

I have the setup running, no boost, waiting now on a bigger IC. I got the teg gauge cluster to function properly, now i can check the CEL's and get the enigne running 100%. Once the IC comes in, you know what time it is. Booost time~!

In the pic i dont have the charge piping perfectly inline with the compressor housing. When lined up 100%, the charge pipe sits higher than the lower radiator core support, which means EXCELLENT ground clearance and the FMIC will line up perfect with the piping in front.

I have the setup running, no boost, waiting now on a bigger IC. I got the teg gauge cluster to function properly, now i can check the CEL's and get the enigne running 100%. Once the IC comes in, you know what time it is. Booost time~!
Ehh. . .That's how mine is, maybe a little worse, and it blows smoke at idle. . . .I have to re-do mine to get the return short and STRAIGHT.
I would plug that bung and get another one mig'ed on right beneath the return on the turbo...
That's just me thou, talking from experience....
I would plug that bung and get another one mig'ed on right beneath the return on the turbo...
That's just me thou, talking from experience....
why is that? Its on a downward angle the whole way. Not steep enough or some ****? Stupid custom turbo hondas, my ls1 stock with cats will make more power than this thing, lmao. I just miss the 9k Rpms.
i had the car idling for quite some time, no smoke. Personally i cant see why it would make a difference, but im sure theres a legit reason. You guys care to share?
i had the car idling for quite some time, no smoke. Personally i cant see why it would make a difference, but im sure theres a legit reason. You guys care to share?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls1 FD3s »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why is that? Its on a downward angle the whole way. Not steep enough or some ****? Stupid custom turbo hondas, my ls1 stock with cats will make more power than this thing, lmao. I just miss the 9k Rpms.
i had the car idling for quite some time, no smoke. Personally i cant see why it would make a difference, but im sure theres a legit reason. You guys care to share?
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it doesn't look like it have enough angle on it
remember gravity helps drain it.... the less of a decline, the slower it drains
u should seriously clock the turbo a bit forward... have the ic piping out of the way, and drain it from behind
i had the car idling for quite some time, no smoke. Personally i cant see why it would make a difference, but im sure theres a legit reason. You guys care to share?
</TD></TR></TABLE>it doesn't look like it have enough angle on it
remember gravity helps drain it.... the less of a decline, the slower it drains
u should seriously clock the turbo a bit forward... have the ic piping out of the way, and drain it from behind
i know gravity drains it. unless it discards a **** ton of oil, -10 line should be more than enough to handle that job on the slope that it currently has. im going to leave it like that untill i get it running 100% and boosting 10psi. if it smokes and does funky ****, il TIG up a new bung.
If i clock the compressor housing foward then i run into other IC piping issues and i have to cut/weld the bitch. how i have it run now is pure bolt and go. The way i like it.
Also have to remember its a -3 line that feeds it. Yes its pressurized, but exactly, its pressurized and therfor the flow on the otherside (return line) is not as dramatic. Think of a FPR fuel return line, its merely steady flow. I know that it is not gravity return on the fuel system, but just trying to make a semi comparison.
should be fine. I recently saw a pic of Beerbongkicksass or WTF his screen name is. Practically parallel to the ground from the turbo to the oil pan. lol, works great under acceleration i would imagine.
If i clock the compressor housing foward then i run into other IC piping issues and i have to cut/weld the bitch. how i have it run now is pure bolt and go. The way i like it.
Also have to remember its a -3 line that feeds it. Yes its pressurized, but exactly, its pressurized and therfor the flow on the otherside (return line) is not as dramatic. Think of a FPR fuel return line, its merely steady flow. I know that it is not gravity return on the fuel system, but just trying to make a semi comparison.
should be fine. I recently saw a pic of Beerbongkicksass or WTF his screen name is. Practically parallel to the ground from the turbo to the oil pan. lol, works great under acceleration i would imagine.


