u could go with -12 to help with the volume and try and get it to go straight down off the turbo for at least 3 or 4 inches before it starts to bend so u can let gravity do its job.

 

lol hoenstly I can hardly justify spending 20$ for the straight fitting and to tap another oil pan. im goingto do the pan for sure and try to make the rest work as it is.

I am wondering though if the fitting can come off the hose ill cut it shorter and crimp it back on or however its done?

 

aeroquip makes reusable used that use a brass crush fitting similar to home plumbing. if you're using 1/2" teflon braided hose you can buy the ends for roughly $10 each. i picked up mine from oil filter services in portland oregon

 

Surprised no one's mentioned JB weld yet

Lowe's fitting, hole saw, and JB weld FTW!

 

^ no way. and I was looking under the car the line is way too long... but if i get the new straight -10 fitting that will take a good inch or so. Im so glad I didnt just start the build now so many things!!!

 

I like this set up, if I get a straight fitting off the turbo, a straight fitting and remove that blue 45 angler for it as well... I think ill be in O-K shape. point the oil pan tap so the oil drains down into the pan though not up. it still sounds like im out 40bux



compared to this


lol so I know im on ebay again this is what im getting

new pan fitting:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AN4-AN-4-4AN...item2eb6c4a3e9

and straight fitting for top drain
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AN10-10-AN10...item2c5f14c655

and possibly one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T3-T4-Alu...item58921bf12e

OVERPRICED! but then I can custom something I like that is properly done

 

u cant justify spending 20 bucks to save your turbo??? the one pictured above is perfect if it costs u 20 bucks for that it will be worth every penny, seriously u drive a boosted car and cant justify 20 bucks thats mind bottling lol.

 

I didn't use AN fittings, just got the appropriate NPT fitting and used worm clamps

 

Easiest way ? Make a mark on the oil pan, take the pan to a shop that can weld and pay $20-$60

 

x2

you want a drain like the black end braided one above. those are the reusable fittings i was talking about on that line. you simply cut the line and crush fit the ends. all you need are more brass crush fittings to reuse the ends if you cut or change the line again.

 

they actually have crush reusable fittings in npt as well. 1/2" npt aeroquip reusable steel female ends are all of $10 each in straight and $11 or $12 in a 45deg

very very cheap way to get rid of the leak potential worm clamps.

 

lmao ya I can I came this far. I knew the kit was not complete so every detail is being looked at.

but seriously take a look at the pic that line is not so long once those two 45 fittings disappear. I will see exactly once I get under the car

 

the only thing i would change about the black fitting pic is that the welded bung in the pan seems to be pointing down a bit i would angle it up.

 

Good to know, thanks for the info!

 

They suck, period. I would know, LOL. They are softer than OEM Honda gaskets, and rip around the holes where the bolt goes through when you tighten the pan down.

 

I agree 99% with what you said... because the word you are looking for is "mind boggling" :p

 

i was quoting will farrel lol, "u know when all your thoughts get trapped in there like a bottle" lmao, blades of glory.

 

my mind is bottled. but not on what to do with the drain Ill be pumped when its 10/10. next im onto the injectors and those things havent been unplugged in 10+ years. any tricks?... then the resistorbox needs wired in.... then if I want to boost more I need a map sensor. wiring wiring wiring

 

I don't like setups that use the moroso pans...their fittings are never high enough, and oil will return into oil, which can cause a backup of oil in the drain and premature failure of the turbo or seals along with power loss.

If you are going to use a moroso pan, reweld a new bung and put it at the top of the pan as high as possible in between two oil pan bolts to the block

 

resistor box is mad easy to wire in or u can just buy saturated injectors and plug em in, if your injectors have been sitting awhile they will need a cleaning because gas turns to varnish after time and they will be all gummed up, i have an injector place around the corner that will test injectors for 7 bucks and clean them for 20 to 25 so just do a local search and get them cleaned up and flow tested.

 

^ really eh. I heard thats a good idea as well but I figured they would clean out. they are precision 680 low impedance injectors. price i got was over 100$

they havent been sitting too long >5 months

 

http://www.fuelinjectorconnection.com

will clean and test your injectors

same week turn around too. i sent mine off monday and had they back by friday

back when i bought that jdm itr motor i didn't trust injectors that had been sitting for lord only knows how long

 

100 bucks is about right, 20 - 25 an injector and totally worth it, if there are any issues u know it wont be the injectors because they are cleaned, tested, and flow rate checked when u get them back. if your car doesnt run right you'll always be wondering about them and fuel delivery is so so important with FI. imo the low impedance injectors are better so just take the 10 minutes to wire in the resistor box get the ones u have cleaned and put em in, it'll be alot cheaper than trying to buy high impedance ones and they have a higher fail rate. i just picked up some rc saturated 750s and the only reason im gonna use them is cuz i got them for 50 bucks. i may still change my mind though. map sensor u can buy for about 80-100 bucks on ebay direct bolt on and plug in replacement from omni power.

 

so I was under the car today again the way the turbo sits its really hard to have the tap high up on the pan the braided line is nearly kinked. I have those 45 angle fittings I will probably have to use them some how. set back for sure. ill try and get a pic later

one idea I had under there was a 45 off the turbo drain and a 45 on the oil pan then there would be like 6 inches of braided hose if that straight. but I dont like a 45 right off the turbo ....

 

i'm not sure anyone knows the exact cause but the oil soak is my best guess. this is also why using a tig is more or less mandatory. with a tig you can control and watch the flow of metal. migs just don't have that level of control