i have a 2000 acura integra LS with a greddy turbo kit. replaced those huge greddy oil lines and got fast-turbo oil lines (-3AN). i have about 63,000 miles on my stock motor and had the turbo for about 3,000 miles already. oil pressure is satisfactory on 10W-30 regular oil. DO YOU THINK I SHOULD GO FOR 10W-30 SYNTHETIC?? i heard too thin of an oil can get thru the seals, possibly raise oil pressure, and not good for "high mileage" motors. what you guys think??

10w-30 synthetic or just stick to conventional?

 

if you run high boost on a stock bottom end, you will mess up the clearances on the bearings in the bottom end because of the extra pressure from boost, If you are running 10w 30 just let the car warmup a lil before driving it. and keep doing what you are doing. the worst thing you can do is make a drastic change in oil weight, so a change from non syn to syn isnt gonna hurt, but IMO non syn oil causes less blow by. On my own car I run 20w 50 in summer but its a high boost daily driver that sees high oil temp regularly this oil stops break down at high temp and doesnt burn off as easily as syn oil.

hope this helps, I know people that run 5w 30 on boosted hondas it all depends what your clearances are and how maticulous you are about maintenance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastrunner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you run high boost on a stock bottom end, you will mess up the clearances on the bearings in the bottom end because of the extra pressure from boost, If you are running 10w 30 just let the car warmup a lil before driving it. and keep doing what you are doing. the worst thing you can do is make a drastic change in oil weight, so a change from non syn to syn isnt gonna hurt, but IMO non syn oil causes less blow by. On my own car I run 20w 50 in summer but its a high boost daily driver that sees high oil temp regularly this oil stops break down at high temp and doesnt burn off as easily as syn oil.

hope this helps, I know people that run 5w 30 on boosted hondas it all depends what your clearances are and how maticulous you are about maintenance. </TD></TR></TABLE>

bump for comments or other suggestions...

 

I use amsoil 10w40 full synthetic in my ITR. I would not use conventional motor oil in a turbo setup due to the extra heat. If you go to amsoil's website, you can read all of the reasons why it is better. I have been totally satisfied with it and use it in all of my vehicles including the boat.

hope this helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 200cs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use amsoil 10w40 full synthetic in my ITR. I would not use conventional motor oil in a turbo setup due to the extra heat. If you go to amsoil's website, you can read all of the reasons why it is better. I have been totally satisfied with it and use it in all of my vehicles including the boat.

hope this helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks everyone, more input please before next oil change!

 

10w-30 synthetic or convential?

what about 10w-30 synthetic blend?

more opinions, not juss turbo integras but any turbo honda!

 

i use MOBIL 1 10w30 FULL SYNTHETIC

 

mobil 1

 

i use mobil 1 synthetic

 

Mobil 1 15w50 for street and Agip Racing 10w60 for track and rallies.

 

From research about oils concerning turbo applications. I have come to the conclusion that Castrol (German Made) - GC - is top notch. Look into GC 0w30. On the contrary, Mobil 1 (M1) synthetic 0W30 is much thinner all around in both the 0 and 30 weight ranges so it's really apples and oranges when comparing it to GC.

As Rory Breaker said, "Their [M1] weights are ALWAYS on the thin side in order to promote their better mileage better performance garbage. It thins out like crazy feel fast."

Moreover, there is a range of viscosity that can be considered a 30 weight or a 40 weight or whatever; The point is M1 is always on the low side and GC is on the high side of that 30, almost a 40 weight.

EDIT: If you don't know which I'm suggesting, it's Castrol (German made) 0w30. Available in most AutoZone stores and NAPA.


Since we are on the topic of Oil. I will provide my thoughts on oil filters.

On my recent discoveries, BOSCH filters are junk along with FRAM. The new Honda smaller filters may slightly increase your oil pressure but it's not enough to be beneficial. There are those that switch to the Honda s2000 filters which are basically the same as the old Honda filters. Then there are the HAMP JDM Honda filters.

There's a lot more to mention like K&N but I can't justify the cost for spending more than $6 for a filter.

I recommend either PUROLATOR pureOne filters or NAPA Gold (WIX). Both are bueno.

*Most of my research was from http://www.bobistheoilguy.com


Modified by NightRider-gsR at 11:05 PM 10/13/2005

 

so for my next oil change, full synthetic 10w-30 mobile 1? bump for more suggestions!

 

Did you even notice what I posted?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you even notice what I posted?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, so 0w-30 over 10w-30? isn't that a little too thin for the seals of the turbo to handle? and more blow-by in the rings?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra_LSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea, so 0w-30 over 10w-30? isn't that a little too thin for the seals of the turbo to handle? and more blow-by in the rings?</TD></TR></TABLE>

&lt; 20w50 castrol synth during summer, used to run mobil 15w50 couple times

&lt; a mix of 20w50/5w40 during spring or mix of 15w50/5w40

&lt; shell 5w40 during winter

whatever you do, don't use energy concerving oil, because it will be thinner and low HTHS numbers. it will say right on the box and usually anything with Xw30 will be energy concerving.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra_LSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea, so 0w-30 over 10w-30? isn't that a little too thin for the seals of the turbo to handle? and more blow-by in the rings?</TD></TR></TABLE>

GC 0w-30 is usually on the high side and sometimes considered a 40 weight.
The 0w is beneficial since the motor will be much quieter and the oil will be distributed immediately upon startup

Mobil 1's weights are always on the thin side in order to promote their better mileage better performance garbage.

If you don't believe me, ask some of the reputable guys at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

i use Quaker State High RPM 10w30 synthetic blend thats heat activated

 

nightrider knows what he is talkin about, the castrol is better than the mobile 1. But from the data is does seem that amsoil is better than both of those.

PS - Next time check the faq's this has been covered many times. There is really good info there. GL.

 

hmm...i'm using castrol 20-50 half-syn....from this summer coming into fall and possibly winter. would climate and weather temps be considered when selecting an oil grade?

and i use the small honda oil filters because they're free i think honeywell is still making them. i heard fram might be making them in the future?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by undercoverdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm...i'm using castrol 20-50 half-syn....from this summer coming into fall and possibly winter. would climate and weather temps be considered when selecting an oil grade?

Definitely. But for most people who live in all around climates like SO Ca, 0w30-xw30 is the norm [where x = # representing 0, 5, 10]

and i use the small honda oil filters because they're free i think honeywell is still making them. i heard fram might be making them in the future?

The current honda filters are made by FRAM.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Amsoil may be great, but isn't it more expensive than Castrol. I'm a best bang for the buck type of guy...

 

im use ram filters and castrol 5w30.

on a stock motor, even with all the work ive got done, im a little skeptical to be changing viscoties of oil. i used to be a "honda only" type guy when it came to fluids, but i was recommended castrol and havent had one problem.

 

You should give Castrol (german made aka GC) 0w30 a try. Oh...and Purolator pureOne filters.


BTW: Fram filters are a no-no.

 

i was recommended the fram filter by vince at golden eagle to accomodate my oil sandwich plate, the honda filter wasnt sealing fully.

what are the advantages of running the castrol 0w30, with a boosted stock block application?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yehiknowrite &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was recommended the fram filter by vince at golden eagle to accomodate my oil sandwich plate, the honda filter wasnt sealing fully.

what are the advantages of running the castrol 0w30, with a boosted stock block application?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Advantages: Upon startup, the oil is immidiately distributed internally.
Data shows that Mobil 1 10w30 is too thin for our engines. Why do you think it's common for most VTEC engines/or other Honda engines to burn off oil (Mobil 1 supersyn)? I used to swear by Mobil 1 myself until I started researching more about oil.

I'm not asking anyone to switch. I'm merely providing information from my own research/readings.

As far as filters go. Have you even tried a Purolator pureONE filter or NAPA Gold (wix)?

 

i havent, but because of the sandwich plate...vince suggested a fram due to the contour of the mating surface of the filter, which would allow it to be threaded on "more" and create a seal.

what would you suggest for the winter in nj? ive always ran honda oil, just switched to castrol gtx 5w30..and have not lost a drop