Can anyone tell my why the dyno at the end is a bit shaky after 5500 rpm? I have my plugs gapped at .30 with a 75 shot nx system. The guy said it might be spark misfires. What else could it be and how do I remedy this.



hmm how do I upload pics btw


Modified by ninja8oi at 11:38 PM 11/16/2003


Modified by ninja8oi at 11:38 PM 11/16/2003

 

upload pics to imagestation. right click the pic once it is in an album. click properties and post that URL in between the Image tags. Misfire could be ignition wires or maybe you just need an ignition box. Most of the prelude guys don't have this problem with just a 75 shot though.

 

THanks got it up. As you can see after the 5500 rpm range the hp is a bit shaky. THis is for a 95 integra ls. I had it gapped at .030 in. Is that good size or should i make it bigger.

 

hey, just want to say that i get my dynos down at carboy as well.

 

well it appears by the a/f that you're getting awefully rich. Not that its a bad thing, but that much fuel would cause some mis-sparking. Upgrading the igniution, or controling the fuel somehow would change it.

 

yea we retared the timing to 11 and it's at 12.1 after the 3rd dyno. Before I blieve it was at 11.8. it's still a lil shaky tho at the end. If it's shaky at the end like that does it mean there is something wrong with the spark and ignition system?

 

get hondata w/ nitrous.

 

I thought hondata with nitrous only controls when the nitrous is activated

 

Hondata doesn't control a wet kit.

Your timing might be a little too retarded. What did the tuner suggest?

You torque is higher than your hp...weird for a B-series Honda.

 

Yea the tuner knock the timing down to 11 i think. It acually gained more hp and torque giving it a better figure in the 3rd run. yea it does look a litttle wierd having the torque higher than hp. He suggested i shuold check the distrib cap and rotors and check the wiring. I also regapped it to .35 as another guy said that might cause the problem also

 

i'd close the gap up a little. if you have a weak spark then opening the gap will only make it worse.

 

The combination of being too rich and having the timing too retarded is what's causing that. You don't need 7 degrees of retard for a 75 shot, nor do you need to run it so rich...

edit: also, it's hard to see the a/f curve, but it looks like you're pretty lean all through the midrange?

 

For a 75 shot knock the timing back 2 degrees and run one step colder plugs. Tune the AF for around 12.5:1 all across the board.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by specie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hondata doesn't control a wet kit.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

not true....For a wet setup set the fuel enrichment value to zero and run both solenoids from the single Nitrous output.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quickda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

not true....For a wet setup set the fuel enrichment value to zero and run both solenoids from the single Nitrous output. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess there's always ways to get around things, but it's just what I got from hondata:

"Nitrous Control is a feature of the s100 & s200 systems where the ECU control the use of Nitrous Oxide in the engine. A dry Nitrous setup is be used (where the fuel is supplied by the ECU), with the ECU switching the Nitrous solenoid on via an output pin from the ECU. Another pin input to the ECU is used to arm the system."

 

damn if I can see that dyno sheet right you got a lot of ******* trq and no hp get hondata it will help with a good tuning session

 

From what my tuner said there isn't really anything to tune with nitrous. All there is, is just the pills that you switch in and out of the shark nozzles. Would I have to get anything extra to tune nitrous with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninja8oi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what my tuner said there isn't really anything to tune with nitrous. All there is, is just the pills that you switch in and out of the shark nozzles. Would I have to get anything extra to tune nitrous with.</TD></TR></TABLE>

with hondata, you only run a dry setup, so the nitrous "pill" is the only one you change. The fuel can be tuned very precisely by controling the ECU. IT would be as if you replace nitrous oxide with turbo - rather than inputing fuel according to boost pressure, fuel is inputed according to your settings, for example if you choose a 75 shot, then there's a base map to run, and according to bottle pressure etc you tune FROM the base map.

Like everyone else say, 7 degrees retard is WAY too much. Get 2 step colder plugs and retard timing 2 degrees and you'll be safe

 

That's wierd cause increasing the retard in timing acutally gave me better results. Before and after the timing change it was still shaky after the 5500 rpm limit. Retarding it gave it a better air to fuel ratio also 12.1. Torque and Hp also increased a little.

 

Did you check you bottle pressure through the pull? When you start to spray the bottle gets colder and drops the pressure.

 

I didn't have a bottle heater so a hair dryer was used to try to keep the PSI constant. It was a little below the red before each run on the NX guage. You think that is what is causing surges at the end.



Modified by ninja8oi at 11:29 AM 11/19/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by specie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You torque is higher than your hp...weird for a B-series Honda. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah how the hell is that possible? HP is mathematically based on torque multiplied by rpm. It should always be higher than torque I thought.

HP = (Torque * RPM) / 5252

 

If you are getting bad results with 2 degrees of retard and a 12.5:1 AF, then you have bigger problems than tuning. Do you have a dyno sheet of your car with the above setup?

 

The dyno is posted in the beginning of this thread with stock baseline run (no NOS) in the 1st dyno run, NOS w/stock ignition timing on the 2 nd run, and retarded the timing to 11 in the 3rd run with nitrous. What could be the problem then

 

It's more than likely your timing and fuel mixture. Hondata nitrous controls are a great way to fix the problem. I was tuned for 100 shot on pump gas (on top of 10psi) with stock ignition, stock wires, plugs gapped about 28 and didn't have any misfires