Ok guys . I got the A/F at around 10.8-11.5 now the only prob im having is the EGTS are hiting over 1400deg. Im running 9deg of timing all across my high cam map and ive tried going down to 7 and the car just dies. at 10-12 deg the car pulls better but egts got to high A/F stays roughtly the same.

ANyone

Setup D16y8 stock motor 8-10psi. Rev hard kit and S300

 

Just to varify high cam is vtec right

 

what kind of gas are you running?

 

Yes

 

Sunoco 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok guys . I got the A/F at around 10.8-11.5 now the only prob im having is the EGTS are hiting over 1400deg. Im running 9deg of timing all across my high cam map and ive tried going down to 7 and the car just dies. at 10-12 deg the car pulls better but egts got to high A/F stays roughtly the same.

ANyone

Setup D16y8 stock motor 8-10psi. Rev hard kit and S300</TD></TR></TABLE>

9 DEGS!?!?!?!? total timing at 8-10PSI???? if so that is way too little and cause for the high EGT's. run around 17 and everything should be OK to start off with. Too little AND too much timing will cause high EGT's.

PS: it's tuner not tunner

 

Thanks man i know not enough timing causes high EGTs.

Im trying to find a stock y8 map cause the stock P28 is what i started with and it has like 24.5 at level.

 

Cause i know on the B series u guys run alot of timing but the d's alot say not to.

 

p28 is z6, close enough to y8 to start with

 

I think tomorrow start at 16 who knows

 

Do 17

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do 17 </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Just did the maps 16 at 8psi and 11deg at 12 psi

 

you could also try leaning the A/F out a bit, anything in the 10's is a bit much for the level of boost you are running on, try bringing the 10's into the lower 11's and get your transition from VAC to boost somewere around 12:8-13:1 running that rich at transition will cause the EGT's to increase alot. just remember that your A/F should decrease slightly as boost increases, I have seen High EGT's in cars that go from Vac into boost with rich mixtures. after you do that, bump the timing up to say 15-16degs and work from there(up or down) while reading plugs after each run.. BTW I have also seen the D's like to see around 25-29degs of timing at your transision point..(from vacum into boost, which is the -2PSI to +2PSI colums) or "0" if you want to keep it simple

 

I got a map here can i send to u to see wht u think

 

First, make sure your distributor timing is synced to your EMS, then get your self some dyno time

 

dis is set to 12deg. Dyno time is not gonna happen. One shop in this area. I have acces to one dyno. But funds are a bit low. Plus when i put the new motor in thats when ill spend the cash

 

Vega, you dyno nut , J/K A dyno would be a good idea, but street tunes work well aslo :D

 

Guys, Y8s dont like a lot of timing AT ALL. Things need to be monitored with a knock detection device. End of story. Det cans cost $30 to build. If you cant be bothered to spend $30 and spend an hour to make the det can(including the trip the hardware store) you shouldnt be tuning a car.

I still have a sneaky suspision that your base timing is still off. With the freeware ROM editors if you punch in 12* in the idle portion, you must advance your distributor basically all the way so the timing light also shows 12*. Based on your other thread, you have not done this which in my mind leads me to believe you're base timing is more retarded than it should be so that when you are running 10*, you are probably running significantly less.

 

I checked today . Triped the ECU with the clip set the timing to 12deg. U mean when i use a timing light and set the base timing at the distributor this has been done. Its at 12deg on the crank.

josh

thanks alot guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nowtype &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Guys, Y8s dont like a lot of timing AT ALL. Things need to be monitored with a knock detection device. End of story. Det cans cost $30 to build. If you cant be bothered to spend $30 and spend an hour to make the det can(including the trip the hardware store) you shouldnt be tuning a car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

True tuning should never reach detonation. ALtough Det cans are nice to have...they should not be used to tune a car. A dyno or even the crude way of checking plugs should. Tuning by reaching detonation is not only dangerous, but unecessary . Considering that you start at 27-28* on a z6 map you can safely start with 17 degrees for 8-10 PSI. I have started with this with the cars I have tuned and always end up bumping it up ( A true basemap). I've never dealt with a Y8, but if it's close to a z6 map then it should be fine. Whatever the total timing out of boost is just retard 1* per lb and that is a pretty good basemap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">True tuning should never reach detonation. ALtough Det cans are nice to have...they should not be used to tune a car. A dyno or even the crude way of checking plugs should. Tuning by reaching detonation is not only dangerous, but unecessary . Considering that you start at 27-28* on a z6 map you can safely start with 17 degrees for 8-10 PSI. I have started with this with the cars I have tuned and always end up bumping it up ( A true basemap). I've never dealt with a Y8, but if it's close to a z6 map then it should be fine. Whatever the total timing out of boost is just retard 1* per lb and that is a pretty good basemap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Since when is a Z6 and Y8 the same? They arent. I made that assumption and I was wrong. They are not the same engine. do not treat them the same. I never said he should be tuning till it detonates. He needs to understand where his knock limit is by monitoring it. You want to stay below that limit. How will HE know where it is if he doesnt monitor his knock limit? Thats the point. A novice tuner needs to definitely monitor knock as to know that they are not over the threshold. At least if he finds the threshold of knock he knows one of his limits and knows to stay below there. Its atleast a step in the right direction.

 

What's the total timing on a Y8 then? Anyone have a bin I don't wanna look one up . Monitoring the plugs and obviously keeping AFRs good is a very easy, but tedious way of tuning. When tuning on the street I get extremley close to MBT for one because of good basemaps and for two checking the heat on the strap of the plug. If you AIM for the middle of the strap plus a little more...that's MBT.

Again nothing wrong with havening a det can, but please explain how to use a det can to tune. You agree that tuning till detonation is not a good idea, so any detonation present is an error in tuning. I also don't agree on finding the threshold on knock. Finding that is past optimum efficiency point (MBT).

 

WOW THIS THREAD IS FILLED WITH A BUNCH OF DUMBASSES WITH ZERO EXPERIENCE.

17 degrees @ 10 psi is a degree or two too much for your run of the mill D16Z6, much less a D16Y8 *which is completely different*

When I had Steve's Y8 on the dyno, 13 degrees @ 10 psi, it purged coolant into the catch can. I drew timing back to 10.5 degrees @ 10 psi - power came up, coolant did not purge, and the coolant temps during the run were 5 degrees less than the previous. I drew timing down to 8 degrees and power stayed the same (on an already heat soaked engine...) while the coolant temperatures during the pull dropped another 4 degrees.

Funny thing about it is, I've found det cans and dynos lead me to the exact same timing figures. And checking plugs is not crude - how the expletive else do you set individual cylinder fuel trims when nobody I've met forks out for individual cylinder widebands or EGT probes? Perhaps none of you noticed, but flow across a Y8 manifold past the 200 whp range gets all sorts of fucked and imbalanced, and these are the engines that really overfeed #3 cyl.

D16Z6, start with a P28 ignition map and draw it down to 14 degrees at 10 psi. That is probably a bit low, most like 15-15.5 unless they have a decent manifold/turbo setup. For D16Y8, start with a P28 ignition map and draw timing down to 6 degrees at 10 psi. Again, barely conservative, most seem to run 7-8 degrees.

People to talk to with their heads out of their asses about D16 are: me, SOHC_MShue, ElSpool, and do try and ignore most everyone else in this thread. The rest of you guys in this thread fighting for knowledge and perspective, instead of OBD1 D16Z6 ASSumptions, kudos.

 

OK here is the thing my A/F are at 11.0-11.5 all around at WOT.

Now when i run 7-9 deg of timing the egts go past 1400.

And about the head lifting issues im one of them back in the day. My head is on there tight.