Yea I don't think I'll have too much problem getting the trap especially since the car weighs nothing. I just hope my ls trans will take it lol. Also going to be running life time warranty autozone axles. I have 3 sets for the car lol.

 

You should be fine making 600ish with that turbo. What cams will you be running? A friend of mine on here just made 604 on 26psi with a non-billet journal bearing 6765 and PRO 1's. I forget why he didn't turn the boost up more but it has a lot more in it. Nice build and keep posting!

 

nice build dont forget to post up dyno numbers when finished

 

yea^^^

 

As of right now I have some gsr cams but that's it. I had some ITR cams I thought about using but then I realized they were bad. So that's going to be the next thing I need to get. I also need do find some small things like a bov, catch can and so on. Still a crap load of things to do/get but luckily I don't plan on having this thing finished til next spring. And I'm going to be graduating FINALLY in December so then I can just work full time instead of working full time AND going to school all the damn time.

If anyone has any suggestions on what cams to use let me know. I'm almost sure I wont be using the gsr cams on this car though so that leaves a whole lot of possibilities. Later.

 

Will do. I plan on tuning it on a dyna pack in the spring so the numbers MIGHT read high. But after my last car made 680whp on a dyna pack and 686whp on a mustang I'm not really sure if there is too much of a difference between the two dynos I use.

Either way I'll be posting the lowest whp and/or wtq. I will also be telling everyone I know that the car make 265whp and 200wtq on a dynapack... Going to be my little secret. =-)

 

While at work I overheard someone talking about parting out their car. Well guess what, I ended up buying their manifold. It's a Neukin Manifold. I'm not sure what it's called. It looks like a mini ramhorn manifold. Well that's all I can think of. I also got a down pipe with it. Sadly the flex pipe weave is all messed up on the down pipe so I'm going to have to cut it out and re weld in another one. But here is a picture of the turbo and manifold. Not the greatest looking setup but it should work pretty well. I also hate how fast this thing develops surface rust. At least the manifold doesn't >.<



I also like the waste gate placement. Should be easy to make a dump shoot out of the fender with it angled like that.

I'm still looking for a nice set of cams. If anyone has some input on what they think works let me know. I don't have money to get a set as of right now but it'd be nice to know what I'm working for lol.

That's all for now.

 

Sorry I haven't been adding anything lately. I graduate in about a week so after that I'll have plenty of time and money to buy some new parts. Right now I'm trying to finish two other cars. Doing a 3L swap into a cougar along with new suspension and I'm also rebuilding my DA's motor because it has been burning some oil and also blew a head gasket after nearly 400k miles. The good thing is once I finish the swap and suspension on the cougar I'll be able to park that thing outside and have my two car garage back to park the civic in so I can actually work on it in my nice heated garage this winter.

 

bad *** build! surprised you didn't have the machine shop put in the block guard? I was always under the impression it was good to have it line bored and all that after the block guard was installed?

also, which type of block guard are you running?

 

I originally planned on not using block guard at all. But I also thought I was for sure going to be doing a 81.5mm build. But my whole project is kind of up in the air right now. I'm thinking about sending it back to the shop to go for the 84mm bore and/or sleeving it. But as of right now I don't know what I'm doing. If I do use block guard on either size I will have them line bore everything afterwards. I just don't know what size I'll be going. There still is a very good chance I might be selling my motor and going for a k series. For right now I'll just have to stare at a brand spankin new 81.5mm ls block and a b16 head and a ls crank. The second I change my build or figure out what I'm going to be doing I'll post it up.

Also Mark at M&M was quoting me $50 for the line hone since I take literally everything I have to them and they do great work. I still need to drop my head off (If I end up staying with the ls/vtec) So if I do decide to use some block guard it wont be too much of a problem.

If I do go with the B series I really want to have a true 2L instead of a 1.8xL. I just think for a small amount of money it'll make a huge difference in my light *** little car.

I haven't had the thing weighed yet but I'm trying to guess what it will weigh. I usually have full interior along with the factory sound system and everything. This car will be completely gutted with only a driver seat. Anyone know what gutted eg's are weighing now a days? I remember back in the day people bragging about being gutted and weighing 2600 with them in it. I'm shooting for less than 2,400 with me in it. Another reason why I'm considering a tube frame or a fiberglass front clip. But I'm getting way ahead of myself. For now I just need to figure out what motor and size I'm going with lol.

 

Working 80 hrs/week... Looks like the cars on hold for now. At least until we slow down a little at work. Good thing is I'll have all the money I'll need to finish the car and do a few more lol.

 

Well, I know what I'm doing. Going to stick with the lsvtec but I'm going to be sending it off AGAIN to get machined AGAIN. At least I didn't really pay anything the first time. This time I'm going to have to pay msrp which kind of sucks but it's what I gotta do.

I'm also going all out on the head. I have a stock b16 head right now with ferrera valves, supertech valvetrain and a oem intake manifold. I plan on getting my buddies head that flow benched better than an alaniz head that he used on his race car way back in the day. He made over 900 on it. So for what I plan to make it will do fine. I'm also going E85 all the way.

I wasn't 100% sure on what I was going to be using for fuel, 1 tank or 2 and so on. But as of right now I'm going with at least a 10 gallon tank and will be running e85 only. I'm also going to be jumping up to some 1,600cc injectors along with possibly changing my fuel pump. My fuel lines will still be fine but my aeromotive pump might not be up to it. Also I'm going to be redoing the entire cage. Removing basically everything including the dash. Most of the dash will be custom but I'll be going with at least an 8 point cage. And lastly I plan to change out my turbo for something bigger. My turbo will make 600whp no problem but I'm going to be shooting for more this time.

I plan on this car being my last big honda build since I'm getting older I'll have to stop spending money on things that are just for fun and use it on more important stuff... The reason I just decided to change everything is I just landed a job making $20k more than my last job so I'll have some nice pay checks coming in so finishing the car wont take very long. So hopefully I'll be able to update this thread. I'll mostly be doing small things while I wait for the block to get sleeved and sent back to me.

And sorry for anyone that was actually following this build thread. I usually start and finish a build in a month or so and since my schedule has pretty much been horrible the past few months it's not letting me do what I want to do. Plus having no room to work on my car in my garage is also a problem. Before I can pull it in and out of the snow I have to finish two other cars =-( But it will all get done in time. It's never a good thing to rush through a build (even though that's how most of my builds are lol)

 

Keep it going man! Just don't loose interest and part it out before it gets completed.

 

I have not will will not ever do that. Too many of my friends have done it and they always lose so much money. I always rip them when they do it. I can't imagine what they'd do if I parted a car out lol.

 

I like the manifold

 

the manifold reminds me of a girl with 3 ***** lol. keep up the good work. cars looking good man!

 

in for this, should be a nice build

 

Well today at work I was talking about cars with a buddy of mine. I was kind of bouncing ideas off of him for a little while. I mentioned that I might be sending the block out to get sleeved and he was all for it. But then I said "too bad I didn't just get a gsr block". He then said my buddy is selling his gsr block with ctr head. He also said that his friend was looking for a built ls block plus cash. This really got me going. I've seen the car/motor he is talking about since I knew the kids older brother and I know all the work that was done was done properly a few years ago. But as of right now I'm highly considering trading my block, ls cank, new bearings, rods and pistons for his motor plus some cash. The problem is how much should I ask for on top of his motor?

So far I have my brand spankin new 81.5mm block line honed and looking good, new eagle rods, 81.5 cp 9.0:1 pistons with 10k miles on them, all new bearings, arp head studs/rod bolts, itr water pump/oil pump, skunk II intake manifold, block guard and cam gears.

He has a 100% stock gsr block with stock pistons/rods and everything along with a ctr head with gsr cams. But besides the cams the entire setup is stock.

I plan to send the gsr block off to get sleeved to 84mm, order some 9.7:1 pistons if not higher, get some more rods and pistons and then use the valve train I have in the ctr head along with the stock cams (if I don't use comp cams).

So just let me know what you think would be a good asking price. I'm thinking I'll charge 100% of what I paid at the machine shop since it's still brand new, along with all the new bearings. And I could also go 100% for the rods and then maybe half off on the pistons. I'm going to go add all that up and see what it comes out to and send him a text to see what he thinks.

I'll be posting as soon as I find out what I'm doing. But until I figure this out I'm not changing anything else.

 

Lol, Like the one from total recall

 

One more thing.

I think I'll be changing my turbo out for a precision 6262 or bigger. I haven't read into them very much but since either way the motors going to be grenade proof I might as well get a bigger turbo. From what I HAVE read people are making tons more power on less boost with the 6262 turbos. I just can't remember what they max out at. If it's in the 600's I'll probably go bigger. But I have to keep in mind that I will be dailying this thing if there is no rain/snow.

 

theyre making around 7-750 with the 6262's

 

there is some **** star girl with 3 **** now too. google girl with 3 *****.

 

I too think I am going 6262, after hours of researching I feel its the best turbo for the buck. I have seen post with people claiming to make 7-800whp on the 6262, and for 800bucks (journal bushing version) you can't really go wrong. The lag shouldn't be a whole lot being its a 62mm turbo and if your going 9.7:1 it should be even less noticable. I know where a bare GSR block with main caps is at in cbus for $75 bucks, pm me if interested. You would need to find a crank, not sure where you plan on sending the motor to be sleeved and built but I highly reccomend Mike Laskey@ Laskey Racing.

If you read my build thread you'll see he hooked me up and the motor was nothing but perfection when it arrived back to me. People have made good power on stock cams as well, so if you wanted you could save the money from buying new cams and put it towards building the motor. I am running 01 spec ITR's, I like the stock idle and the fact that people have made over 800whp on them.

Not sure if your on OH or if I know you, either way car looks nice. My only concern with it is the battery location. But hey if you like it there then fine, its your car ultimately.

 

nice build

 

Yea, I'm on OH. I usually only get on there to mess around or buy/sell things which now a days is harder with the dollar bills.

And with the gsr block your talking about. I'll buy that thing right now. I have my ls crank that I could use. I'd rather use a ls crank than gsr to get the 2.0L block. You say it has the caps, I'm hoping you mean for everything journal? If not I'd have to just use my caps from the ls. But if I can find a gsr block I can just put my ls short block back together with new bearings and everything and sell it and pay for most of what it will cost to build up the gsr.

I didn't plan on going with laskey but now that you mention it I will look into it more. Can you pm me some more info about them. Like price, time scale, quality and all that good stuff.

Thanks for the post.