Haven't done too much lately because of School and work. But I'm going to hopefully be buying a b16 head tomorrow along with an intake manifold. I'm going to try to get a victor x if I can but I'll be happy with anything that will bolt up to a b16. I'm also going to be picking up my head studs, vtec solenoid, valve cover, and a GE lsvtec kit from the shop. There are probably a few things that I am just forgetting about but I think that's about it.

But on a side note. I was replacing the oil pan and cam seal when I noticed some nasty *** looking oil. I then found half of what looks like a plastic washer in the oil pan. But I have no idea what can cause this stuff. It looks like the car had a cold or something. Here is a picture of what it looks like just so you don't think I'm crazy when i say the car has a cold.



There was a lot more of that gunk in there. It was streaming out into my oil catch and I was just thinking wtf. I got the motor up on the stand and look a look inside and the greenish brown oil stuff is everywhere. I'm assuming it's some kind of condensation or something since it was REALLY bad right near the catch can lines but the little washer kind of shocked me. It was sitting a few inches from the oil pick up. Now I'm just wondering where the other half of it is lol.

I'll have a bunch of info and some pictures up tomorrow hopefully if everything works out. I'm also going to start a for sale thread because I have way too many random parts and even after I cleaned my garage and I still barely have enough room to work with two cars in there.

 

Ok, so today I did about 200 miles of driving to get random parts off craigslist, friends or at the shop/work. But after all that driving I have a good amount of parts. Here is the list...

cryo treated and rebuilt with torsen lsd ls transmission with 0 miles on it already painted and looks very similar to what I painted my block but we'll see once I get it bolted up later on. And yes I have all the receipts proving it's brand spanking new. Has about $1,400 in parts/labor on this sob lol.



Aeromotive FPR hooked up but never had any fuel ran through it.



a whole bunch of fuel line. 16' of -10 for fuel line and 16' of -8 for return along with about 10' of extra for regulator to rail and so on. They also came with some black an fittings. I'm still going to have to get a few straights and 90's but it's a great start for what I paid for them. I also have the precision injectors from before. All I need now is a -10 fuel rail, 2 fuel filters and a few fittings and my fuel should be completely done.



At the shop I picked up a used b16 obd1 head. I'm not sure how many miles are on it but it came with a stock b16 intake manifold, vtec solenoid and throttle body.



I still need a b16 vtec dizzy so if anyone has one let me know.

The crappy thing with the head is I want to send it off the the machine shop but this time I didn't make an appointment. So I'll hopefully be dropping it off this week some time and then it will be done who knows when. But that'll give me some time to buy some valve train components and a few other things.

The one thing I didn't end up getting today was the GE lsvtec kit. It was supposed to be at the shop today but only a few pieces were there so I decided to just wait and get it all at once.

In the next few days I plan on ordering all new main bearings along with some pistons. Unless an amazing deal falls in my lap I'm just going to get some 9:1 cp's and be done with it. Like I said earlier I already have the rods, I just need the pistons =-(

But that's all for now.

 

Getting there keep it going im curious to see how much power u will make

 

Great start!

 

Did you guys weld the cage directly to the floor with out 6x6 plates?

 

what happens if you get rear ended? (hope it never happens , butt....)

 

it looks good bro.

 

Nice for your first build thread! Is this your first actual build? Looks nice keep it going. Are you gonna street the car or just mostly track?

 

I don't really care too much about what kind of power it makes since the car is so damn light. I mainly am shooting for a 140mph trap. I just want to make the power I need to get that. And if I can some how get that with crazy low hp I'll turn it up and see if I need to install a shoot on this thing. I'm still not sure if I'm going to tube the front end yet. But it's so tempting...

 

I have plates on the other side, cut a small hole in the car and then welded the plate to the bottom pieces of the pipe and then I welded all around the top. The plate under neath is a 4x4. So it's welded from two sides. I like doing it like that more than just welding a plate on top of the car. Plus it looks cleaner. I've done it on 4 cars so far. One of them rolled and it held up like a champ. That was on a road course though, not a strip. One other thing is I never get my cars certified. So if it will be illegal how I have it please let me know so I can rip it out and add another plate. I just personally prefer it like I have it.

 

you mean with the battery? If so it wont matter since I get my lawn mower batteries for free through a friend. But I'd be more worried about the car than the battery =-)

 

Thanks, and no it isn't my first build. But this is my "First Build Thread". lol

But the car will be 100% street legal. I'll be driving it in the snow this winter and then on the track in the spring, summer and then I'll probably get rid of it again next fall like I just did with my last red eg. But this car is going to see a lot of the track. And I'll be driving it to and from.

 

I just did a bunch of reading on cages. I guess according to the new rules none of my cars have ever been "NHRA Certified" even though everyone has been lol. I guess it all depends on the person doing the certification. I'm going to leave the bottom plate where it is, cut the cage out, add a big *** L bracket and then re weld it because this car needs to be legal legal. I don't want to have to hope some random red neck cert guy thinks my car is good enough. I'm going to actually build it according to the newer rules. I'm also going to go with an 8 point while I'm at it because I don't want to waste more time with the cage.

 

so far so good! Keep up the good work! Get that cage cert. You took the time to put it in there, best to do it right.

 

holy **** i made it to a sig?!?!

 

 

Subscribed. :thumbsup:

 

How's the build going man?

 

 

I've just been burnt out. I haven't been able to do a thing since I got the head last week. I've been either at school, work or sleeping lol. I still haven't been able to get the head out to the machine shop. But for the few times per week I'm at home and have nothing to besides sleep I've been checking for parts online. I'm mainly just looking for an amazing deal on a turbo if I can find one. I'd rather not spend over $1k on a turbo but I might have to. I'm also trying to figure out what intake manifold and/or exhaust manifold to use.

I haven't even touched the cage yet so it's still how I had it. I think I'm just going to cut the pipe even with the ground so I can slide a 6x6 in along with a L so it contacts the actual rail and then just weld everything back up. I already spent a **** load of time doing all the welding on the bottom and I'd rather not have to take it all out.

But I'm going to be doing a full 8 point now so I will have to add in a few pipes but that's ok. But basically it's going to have a 4x4 plate on the bottom welded to the pipe from the top and also welded to the bottom of the car, that is all covered with liner now (another reason I don't want to rip it all out) and then there will be a 6x6 plate and the L piece welded to the floor on top and the pipe will be welded all around it.

Or another thing I was thinking about was just leaving the cage as is and getting the 6x6 plates, cut it in half, and then cut out a hole so I can just slide it around the pipe and then just weld the 6x6 back up and then weld the plate to the car/pipe. That might work but I don't know if it's legal. I'm going to be calling someone next week to find out if I don't find the answer on here.

But that's all for now. My 21 hour day has come to an end and I can go to sleep for 4 hours...

 

hell yeah man i feel you on that! Full time student, full time job, and not much sleep, its tough for sure. Exactly the same reason why my parts are stacking up, but are just in boxes still, too much going on to even assemble

 

lol, I'm still working on getting those boxes lol. Luckily I have a few days where I'm only working or at school for about half the day so I'll have some time to do a few things. I'm not sure if that will be for the car or just hanging out with friends. But I just need some "me" time lol.

 

Decision time... I've been looking all over the place for CHEAP as **** turbos and right now I'm trying to decide between two. The good old garrett gt35r and a precision sc6176. Right now I'm more leaning to the 35r because I've used 3 or 4 of them over the years, they are reliable for the most part, good response and they don't run too hot. I've used 2 precision turbos, both non ball bearing and I've loved them both. The only real difference seems to be price. I can get the precision brand spanking new for $600 at the shop or I can get a 35r for $999.99 plus shipping...=-(

The other thing is manifolds. Ramhorn, top mount, log style? As of right now I have no idea what I'll be using. I've had at least 1 of each and I've never really noticed much of a difference between any of them. Except the top mount is nice because you can see the turbo and it keeps all the hot stuff down low apposed to being 1 inch from the bottom of the hood. But that is all solved using header wrap. I think I'll just be going with the cheapest thing I can find that has quality. I really don't want anything that is even remotely ebay quality.

Also when I say "cheap" I don't mean cheap as in terms of quality or even price. I just mean the cheapest I can find an expensive high quality item. For example, a intake manifold that usually costs around $2k is expensive as **** but you have to pay to get the best stuff. So now if I can find that same manifold for $1,800 I say that's cheap because it is... lol

I've almost 100% sure none of that needed an explanation but as you can probably tell I'm incredibly sleep deprived and I'm going to finally get some sleep tonight. Luckily tomorrow I only have a half day of work.

But yea, let me know what you think. Later.

 

I bought a new turbo a few days back but before I posted it up I wanted to make sure I have what I thought I have. Turns out I have a journal bearing precision sc6176s. For what I paid, I'm very happy. The turbo is supposed to be good for 680hp which is right around where I am shooting for. But again, I'm going more for trap speed rather than whp. I wouldn't mind making 200whp if I could get the 140mph trap that I want. But since I'm not riding a hayabusa it'll PROBABLY need a little more power lol. Here are a few pictures of the turbo.







For being new it's already rusting like hell. That's always a problem with exposed metal. I'm most likely going to be painting the hot side gray with some high temp paint or another thing I thought about was just using a turbo wrap. I've never used one but after seeing my buddies on his car last night I REALLY want one. After driving around for about 20 minutes and then going ***** out for a few runs we stopped and I could actually touch his turbo... I usually can't even get near my manifolds. I just hope the turbo wrap condom thing wont fail as much as normal condoms do...

Next step is a manifold and some exhaust pieces. Like I said before the car is going to have a whole exhaust since it's going to be a "street car" so I'll probably be running 3" straight back to a quiet muffler. But the dump tube is probably going out the side. I'll do what I can to make it louder than the actual car. But that's all for now.

 

that is a nice find... it will have one hell of a powerband. Even if you make 600whp, that would be plenty power to go fast. (not Outlaw fast, but fast enough to get a fix)