Well guys I have been doing alot of research and I have figured out that if you have a Turbo car that has been built and you run it like it sposed to it will spin like a $2 *****. I have seen traction bars, mounts, homemade mounts, mount inserts, all in my cars over time and I have decided that the best thing to stop spinning and wheel hop is to use motor plates like in some of the cars I have built {V8 cars and trucks}.

Has anyone attempted this in the honda world or have I made a breaking discovery? Because I am about a month away from having a 400+ HP turbo D-series and I am thinking VERY VERY VERY HARD on doing this.

I know it will not be a DD or streetable for 200+ miles. But for a Honda that is built like that it does not matter about a long road trip.

Humpty

 

Is a motor plate something like a solid mount?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Everyones Hero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is a motor plate something like a solid mount?</TD></TR></TABLE>

it goes between the trans and engine and ties the engine/trans to the front traction bar and rear of the front subframe with a plate. netting little or no movement.

to the o.p. pm rota92 he is up on all the d series stuff.

 

This isn't practical for Honda's just simply because there are other things available. Between solid mounts, torque dampners, and traction bar setups with engine stabilizers, doing a more expensive and complex approach like that isn't necessary.

I don't see how your solution is going to eliminate wheelspin and wheelhop.

 

Thing is I know its not really need on a street car. But I live in a town where the cops buy drugs in their cruisers and they dont give a ****. And I have 8 500whp or more cars{2 Supra's, 2 Sti's, 350 blown blazer, and 3 dsm's} that live withen a mile of my house. All in which are my great friends and my best friend. So **** is talked all the time.

If need be I will roll the hatch outa the driveway with slicks. Im just saying this is not a hot rod class car but it might as well be.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't see how your solution is going to eliminate wheelspin and wheelhop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I have owned a redicuous 87 turbo maxima. And I found out that the only way to elemimate 95% of wheel hop and wheelshin was easy. I just dropped the front on a really hard lowering spring. and the rear I used a shock ans spring setup off of a old hd desiel. It put so much pressure on the front of the car it was lick a ladder bar setup except backwords. It was a vg33 out of a supercharged frontier, turboed with a old 300zx turbo, tuned on haltech, 399 tourqe, 304WHP. It was 4000 pounds and ran a 11.8 on 22" slicks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hump-Free &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But I live in a town where the cops buy drugs in their cruisers and they dont give a ****. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like you live in a very **** place

 

look into limiting straps. They are not too popular on front wheel drive as they are on rear wheel, but i have seen some using them on HT.

The limit strap is a strap that goes from the shock tower down to the fork the shock sits in, you can tighten the straps and it pulls your front end down so that there will not be any suspension travel when you launch.

traction bars help the lca not flex from the load of the car, therby putting more tire to the ground.

 

omni coils, jk traction bar, and a SOLID STEEL rear mount b series crx turbo, no wheelhop at all.