<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HT Contributor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The stock honda knock sensing system isn't useful with a boosted car... heh.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's every bit as useful boosted as it is stock. It just trims ignition timing at highway cruise; it is an emissions device and not an engine safeguard.

 

Just wired mine up. I'm hoping for good results! I'm having to do a lot of tricking because of my setup.

(I was expecting a 99-01 CR-V engine) but instead I got:

JDM B20B (8.8:1) no knock sensor (97~ OBD2A) Engine

My chassis is a 99 EK hatch. I used a 99-00 EX engine harness, 99-00 CR-V distributor (thanks Jesse). Everything else was good. I then went to pass emmissions. I planned on using my friends P2P ECU (99-00 EX) but when I snapped it in, I threw a VTEC pressure switch code and knock.

So I figured I can just use a non-vtec 5spd ecu but it uses a 3 wire IACV, so i'd code anyway. So I'm using the VTEC pressure switch bypass (obd1 users do this for jdm engines which lack that) and i'm using this piezo transducer trick to fool the knock sensor. I just ran 2 piezo transducers in sieres and put the red end into the plug for the knock sensor and gronded the black. I loosely electrical taped them to the intake manifold. I'm hoping that does the trick. I'm going to pick up my friends ECU and put some miles on it before attempting to pass smog. I dont want it to code in the middle of it being scanned.

 

 

So what's the verdict everyone? After all the trials and errors is it concluded that the radio shack transducers will replace the knock sensor succesfully?

 

Bump 4 working great on my lsvtec No more check engine light

 

I was thinking... couldn't you just grab your GF's vibrator, strap it to the sensor, relocate it somewhere in the cabin, then pass emissions?

If you're going to tape anything to the manifold to get light vibrations, I'd use a cusion of foam instead of loosely taping it.

 

If the KS is still in the block but broken, you can always just epoxy the transducer to the top of the transducer inside the KS. You'd still need to groundit but it would be on a pedestal so it would get more vibration and it would be out of sight, out of mine. Just put a piece of tape over it until the epoxy sets up. Make sure to just put the epoxy on the little disc; if you put it all over the whole sensor body, you'll reduce the vibration...

Ryan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1jdmda9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump 4 working great on my lsvtec No more check engine light </TD></TR></TABLE>

stickyy

 

damn i just found a open hole on the back of the block and threaded my knock sensor in there. seems a WHOLE LOT easier to do that.

 

well sorry for posting on th old thread, but i have an issue. i went out to by the piezo buzzers. hooked everything up, and it didnt work. so i went back to get another one and same results. i followed all the instructions and tried various mounting positions. what next?

 

DOPE!

 

what do you mean you went obd1 and what dose that do

 

wow, wish I came across this post a few years ago!

Nice job on figuring out a KS bypass trick!

I'm going to document this on my techsite if ya'll don't mind...(JRciv?)

btw, isn't there an available threaded hole on the backside of a Z6 block that will accept a KS?

 

Does the knock sensor wire going to the ecu need to be shielded?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a1eg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does the knock sensor wire going to the ecu need to be shielded? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe it does, but a lot of people don't use shielded wiring and still get away with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I believe it does, but a lot of people don't use shielded wiring and still get away with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a B18C and I keep getting a Knock code. I used a Boomslang harness. Maybe I will try an insulated wire from the sensor to the ecu.

 

Here's my dilema.

1. can go ahead and do the bypass trick

or

2. can try my theory, but before i'd like to know if someone knows if this will work or not.

the project- "friends car"

00' civic ex "auto" -- motor threw a rod

we have a z6 to replace it with.it's allready obd2 ready "obd2 oil pump,z6/y8 modded dizzy"

tranny is attatched, everything is pretty much ready to go.

what i had planned to do was find a hole on the rear of block, tap it and thread in the KS. Only one hole was found inline with the cyl. like as on the y8. But it's OD was to large to tap and thread.

So i drilled out one of the two holes found on the intake mani bracket "under the intake" . litterally in the middle of the bracket.I put the KS thread side down and locked it down with a Nut. It's protected and on there firm. Even the wire from the harness is long enough to reach it.

So will it pick up vibration like it would mounted to the block, or does the sensor have to be facing and mounted to the cyl. wall to work right?

what do you guys think?

 

I've heard of people relocating the KS to a different hole on the backside of the block and I think it worked.

Doesn't hurt to try though. Worst thing that can happen is a CEL for the KS.

 

Well i'm gonna go ahead and try my idea, here's a few pics of the location. bad bad pics but everyone that has seen the back of a motor will know what they are looking at.


I'm mounting the KS facing down under the intake mani bracket. The plug reaches with no problem. It's also away from everything.








Modified by spoonInspired at 9:07 PM 11/10/2008

 

i did the bypass the OP did like 3 years ago when another user did the write up worked good and is cheap for a couple dollars .


Modified by turbo97coupe at 9:22 PM 11/10/2008

 

I was curious about that, can you just go off the end of the harness wire that connects to the KS? instead of cutting wires near the ecu?? if my idea doesn't work i'd try that route but it's not my car so i don't want to be hack'n **** up.

 

i just cut the conecter off for the knock senser and soldered from there and i had zero issues. so yes you dont have to cut the wires at the ecu and like i said its been working for over 3 years now

 

where did you mount the part? also where did you ground it? sorry for the 20 questions. just sounds like a sure bet.

 

i taped it to the fuel rail looslely same as this guy did. and the ground i honestly dont remember where its grounded off the top of my head

edit* just looked i have it grounded to my firewall behind the intake mani out of sight . where a bracket used to be

 

thanks man, I'm gonna look into it.