Hey guys I am finally turboing my car and have a bunch of questions.

Car: 1991 CRX Si with

Turbo Kit: Full Race ProStreet Stage 1 Turbo Kit (t3/t4 57trim .63 a/r)

Engine Specs: OBD0 b16a converted to OBD1. P28 ECU.
S1 Tranny
Skunk 2 Intake manifold with JG bored Throttle Body
Skunk 2 cam gears
GSR cams
ARP Headstuds
Thermal 3" exhaust
gm 3 bar map sensor

Fuel management: going to be tuned with NepTune by Jeff Evans.
RC 750cc saturated injectors
walbro 255lph hp fuel pump
AEM fuel rail
AEM FPR

Think it would be possible to get 300whp reliably? Would that be good for 11's?

If not what would this setup be good for?

Anyone just put in pistons? I hear B series rods are pretty strong but would it be worth it to just do pistons? What would that be good for whp wise?


Thanks

 

B16 rods are fine for your setup.And 300 hp shouldn't be a problem.A set of forged pistons would be a good upgrade.But 11 second quarter miles takes more than just power.Get it all together and take it to the track.Then you will know how fast/slow it is.

 

I more worried about reliability then the times. I see the stock block b16 thread but the thing is some of those people dont care if there car blows up. I am trying to keep it reliable. Not sure how much stress 300whp puts on a motor.

 

a buddy of mine recently layed down 386 on stock ls rods(shot peened w/arp bolts) and a set of srp pistons. everything else was stock (ls/vtec)

 

i would think reliability comes from the tuning, and if its going to be tuned by jeff evans, im sure if you told him you want reliabilty>power, he could probaly set it up that way

 

i wouldnt take a chance, i would at least put in some decent rods and pistons in your engine and everything depends on a good tune.

 

stock rods will hold fine at that power level, the only problem is when you get hooked on boost like a drug and want more, youll have the stock rods holding you back

 

If you have the motor open already, why not drop in some Eagles for 300 bucks and get it done?

 

The thing is right now I am maxing my budget out. There are a ton of parts needed and Fullrace isnt cheap.

Pistons themselves are pretty cheap. But then if i want to add rods there like another $300 more, then you need new bearings so probably like atleats another $100, then rod bolts are like $100 and to top it off install. Thats an extra $600 easy over what I want to spend, so I am more curious as to what I can safely expect out of a stock block.

 

rods come with rod bolts

 

This is not from me this is from MANY books on this subject (Maximum Boost being one I remember, ME classes help too , if you can find the thread about a year ago I explained the same thing ):

Revving out is the most harmful to rods (given the Rod ratio acts as a multiplier to those forces). this is called Tensile load. At 8000rpm many rods are supporting and even worse are STRETCHING (which some know is worse then compression for some metals including our stock rods) loads equal to a cars weight. the load is based on rpm squared....so obviously the problem only gets worse with higher revving. Now onto whether the rod can take the power. The thing is most people think that tripling torque will put triple the stress on the rods. Fortunatly that isn't true......ask my why if you really want to know. When a "rod designing engineer" sits down to design a rod all he really needs to think about is tensile load forces as these create the most fatigue that why free revving is also the worst thing since there is no load to slow down the piston from moving up.

Cliff notes: Revving is what you should be concerned about not so much power. I'd say you can safely do 300whp and <U>IMO only</U>I'd say 400whp as well on some B16 or GSR rods.

 

yeah i would upgrade rods like what the guy said up there.. once u boost ur going to want more.. and the rods will hold u back.. so might as well upgrade it now and u wont have to rip the motor apart more than u have to..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XXX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Pick 2:
Cheap Fast Reliable</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you want fast and reliable, then buy the rods,pistons etc. if you want to be cheap and reliable stay stock. I woudlnt go half-assed on a boost setup if you are wanting reliability.

 

if anything..

sell throttle body and cam gears for rods if it comes down between choosing a or b. you do'nt really need these to make that much hp.

 

you should make 300 no prob. I have a b16 that is pretty much stock. blox intake mani 440s 3inch exhaust tuned with neptune and made 318 at just over 10 psi on a peakboost kit. I drive it everyday no prob

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoePSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Pick 2:
Cheap Fast Reliable


If you want fast and reliable, then buy the rods,pistons etc. if you want to be cheap and reliable stay stock. I woudlnt go half-assed on a boost setup if you are wanting reliability.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whose going cheap? I bought a new engine for the car. Converted it to OBD1. Bought all the fuel and ignition mods needed. Got a full race kit which is probably number one for quality. Am going to get tuned by jeff evans who some say is one of the best on the east coast if not the country. I am far from cheap. I didnt keep the d series, piece together a crappy kit or get an ebay kit. I am not using a FMU or AFC hack. I am using all top of the line parts. Full race, garret, tial, neptune, RC, ARP, walbro, ect...


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastasssr20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should make 300 no prob. I have a b16 that is pretty much stock. blox intake mani 440s 3inch exhaust tuned with neptune and made 318 at just over 10 psi on a peakboost kit. I drive it everyday no prob</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the reply. What I think I will do is boost the stock block. If i Love it which I probably will then Ill rip it apart and put pistons rods. I just am looking for around 300whp stock block. I have seen the stock block thread but some of those people dont daily drive or care if they blow up. I do.

Anyway thanks everyone for the info.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a buddy of mine recently layed down 386 on stock ls rods(shot peened w/arp bolts) and a set of srp pistons. everything else was stock (ls/vtec)</TD></TR></TABLE>

i put down 395 whp on a completely stock gsr.

 

i run wisecos gel coated because i fryed my stock pistons, broke in between every ring and there was one with a quater size hole ,dont help that the car wasnt tuned for 10 psi i was running an afc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurbodTegSfaria &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i run wisecos gel coated because i fryed my stock pistons, broke in between every ring and there was one with a quater size hole ,dont help that the car wasnt tuned for 10 psi i was running an afc</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gel Coated?
As for your Rods, You should be able to make 400whp, I put together a motor for a freind of mine that is a Gsr, He only has srp pistons and made 390 whp on stock rods and rod bolts Even reused the bearings and oil pump for the ultimate budget build! .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Whose going cheap? I bought a new engine for the car. Converted it to OBD1. Bought all the fuel and ignition mods needed. Got a full race kit which is probably number one for quality. Am going to get tuned by jeff evans who some say is one of the best on the east coast if not the country. I am far from cheap. I didnt keep the d series, piece together a crappy kit or get an ebay kit. I am not using a FMU or AFC hack. I am using all top of the line parts. Full race, garret, tial, neptune, RC, ARP, walbro, ect...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then the question of replacing the rods shouldnt even exist. If you dropped that much money in the engine, replace the rods, you can get eagles for under 350$. Thats all im sayin, good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoePSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then the question of replacing the rods shouldnt even exist. If you dropped that much money in the engine, replace the rods, you can get eagles for under 350$. Thats all im sayin, good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
amen . thats like buying a ferrari and trying to put 87 octane in it. you supposedly spent all this money on your engine and now youre wanting to skimp. if you only want 300whp, you dont need a different throttle body, cam gears, an aftermarket ignition, etc.
also, does full-race say that the kit will fit inside a crx? some manifolds have fitment problems in crx/ef applications. if you havent already ordered a turbo kit from full race, save your money and go with peakboost or afi and then you can do pistons, rods, catch can, oil pump, gaskets and seals, micropolish your crank, etc. you want reliability but you want it cheap. if you really want it to be reliable, you need to do it right. maybe you might want to consider holding off on completing your build for another month or two to finish it the right way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
amen . thats like buying a ferrari and trying to put 87 octane in it. you supposedly spent all this money on your engine and now youre wanting to skimp. if you only want 300whp, you dont need a different throttle body, cam gears, an aftermarket ignition, etc.
also, does full-race say that the kit will fit inside a crx? some manifolds have fitment problems in crx/ef applications. if you havent already ordered a turbo kit from full race, save your money and go with peakboost or afi and then you can do pistons, rods, catch can, oil pump, gaskets and seals, micropolish your crank, etc. you want reliability but you want it cheap. if you really want it to be reliable, you need to do it right. maybe you might want to consider holding off on completing your build for another month or two to finish it the right way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

When I bought the engine it came with the throttle body, cam gears and some of the other things. I didnt go out of my way to get them but they wont hurt.

And yes the full race kit fits in a crx. As far as saving money the PeakBoost kit is $2999 plus shipping, I got the full race for $3300 shipped. Plus the fact that when I contacted peakboost they said there kit will not work in a crx that I would need to buy a civic kit and reweld the charge pipes, downpipe ect.. I also already have a catch can.

Anyway thanks everyone for the info.