Re: (s13-t)
 

no timing changes...just air fuel. target air fuel was the same, but obviosly changing the manifolds required a little tweaking to get back to the target.

and you still lost power over stock...hmmmm

was this hte old small plenum..or the BIG plenum one?

Re: (s13-t)
 

i would assume big plenum....the thing had atleast a 5 inch plenum on it? far from rocket science it was just a round tube with 4 runners on it haha

hmm...well, i guess we'll see how the one we have goes...it was under $175 shipped...so we'd not be out a lot anyways, haha

ok


i read up quite a bit on the ls


now im stuck again


ls/vtec or crvtec

both turbo eventually

between those two...if you're wanting to man up the cost off the bat, just get a compelte B16 swap.

drive the dick out of it...and buy an LS block to start building whiel you do drive it. when it's done, sell off the b16 short block for $50-75...whatever they go for now, and pop on hte LS block. there you have a built LS/vtec with a good tranny for boost.

but what about b20

ive heard alot that the crvtec is the new ls/vtec

Re: (doodooheadfart)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doodooheadfart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but what about b20

ive heard alot that the crvtec is the new ls/vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>

"new"? Hardly. Its been done for years. People seem to have issues with sleeves on the B20 blocks more then they do the LS/Vtec's... While I personally haven't checked the difference (if any) in sleeve thickness, I can't say if its a true issue.

Re: (doodooheadfart)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doodooheadfart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but what about b20

ive heard alot that the crvtec is the new ls/vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>

b20's only come in longblocks...and you still have to replace the intake manifold to run it as a longblock.... buy why? if you're building you're prob sleeving...so why waste the extra money to get somethign that's harder to sleeve anyways?

serioulsy, just get a b16 swap to start. that'll give you all the parts you'll need to get running....and you'll not have to buy another tranny like you would with an LS swap.

it's also just about as cheap as an LS swap, but will run pretty much side/side with an LS swap

Re: (s13-t)
 

I started with H series back in 96 when I bought my first prelude. I tried everything with them. I personally would never go back to H series.

B series stuff is inexpensive and easy to find. I can same amount of power with B series and it weighs less than H series. Power to weight ratio

H series make more torque than B series which is good but with our cars traction is already a problem. So H series doesnt really serve any purpose in my opinion.

so: ls/vtec &gt; crvtec

it depends on the situation

if you want a mild n/a build...yes, CRV &gt; LS
if you're going boost with stock sleeves LS &gt; CRV
if you're sleeves LS &gt;CRV because they're cheaper and easier to work with

like i said...i'd deff go buy a b16 swap out of a 99-00 SI. Swap that in and change to the 99-00 type harnesses, and then drive it for a while....pick up an LS shortblock and start building.. then just swap it all over one afternoon to an LS/vtec and suprise all the local kids

Re: (s13-t)
 

The reason why the h2b makes more power is the gear ratios. so you are going to spend an extra 800-900 on the adaptor, when if you really wanted to you could just buy a shorter final drive like what the b series has compaired to the h series

and also to be on topic, with the money you have you could throw in a slightly higher compression jdm h22 full swap with mounts and everything for about 3k give or take slightly

Re: (b16hybridsol)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16hybridsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The reason why the h2b makes more power is the gear ratios. so you are going to spend an extra 800-900 on the adaptor, when if you really wanted to you could just buy a shorter final drive like what the b series has compaired to the h series

and also to be on topic, with the money you have you could throw in a slightly higher compression jdm h22 full swap with mounts and everything for about 3k give or take slightly</TD></TR></TABLE>

gear ratio's don't make power. the reason it makes more power is becasue the tranny takes less power to turn. kinda like a c4 vs. a th350.

but the WHOLE REASON behind it isn't gear ratio's either. it's so you have a BETTER tranny in place of the shithole stock h22 tranny. you get solid shaft shifting instead of limp wrist cable bullshit. you also get a lighter tranny, a tranny that sucks up less power, a tranny that has a vast plethora of gear ratio possibilities, a tranny that's easier to find if you need one on the spot, and you get rid of the shitty axle angles with the stock tranny as well. you can also use stock b series mounts for it that are so much more liveable than the aftermarket mount kits. oh, and you get more clutch options wiht twin disk being more avaible. oh, and better axles to choose from and more companies to decide between. oh, and more OE final drive choices as well...that'd save money over the aftermarket jobs. hmm...anything else?

Re: (s13-t)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s13-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

gear ratio's don't make power. the reason it makes more power is becasue the tranny takes less power to turn. kinda like a c4 vs. a th350.

but the WHOLE REASON behind it isn't gear ratio's either. it's so you have a BETTER tranny in place of the shithole stock h22 tranny. you get solid shaft shifting instead of limp wrist cable bullshit. you also get a lighter tranny, a tranny that sucks up less power, a tranny that has a vast plethora of gear ratio possibilities, a tranny that's easier to find if you need one on the spot, and you get rid of the shitty axle angles with the stock tranny as well. you can also use stock b series mounts for it that are so much more liveable than the aftermarket mount kits. oh, and you get more clutch options wiht twin disk being more avaible. oh, and better axles to choose from and more companies to decide between. oh, and more OE final drive choices as well...that'd save money over the aftermarket jobs. hmm...anything else?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gears are used to multiply torque. No gears, and you have nothing. How else would a B16 be able to pull a 15 second quarter mile? https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...es/emsmile.gif

Re: (Hybrid93Eg)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gears are used to multiply torque. No gears, and you have nothing. How else would a B16 be able to pull a 15 second quarter mile? https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...es/emsmile.gif</TD></TR></TABLE>


that's true, but that doesn't affect output on a chassis dyno

Re: (s13-t)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s13-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it depends on the situation

if you want a mild n/a build...yes, CRV &gt; LS
if you're going boost with stock sleeves LS &gt; CRV
if you're sleeves LS &gt;CRV because they're cheaper and easier to work with

like i said...i'd deff go buy a b16 swap out of a 99-00 SI. Swap that in and change to the 99-00 type harnesses, and then drive it for a while....pick up an LS shortblock and start building.. then just swap it all over one afternoon to an LS/vtec and suprise all the local kids</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow


sounds like a great idea

and thats probably what im going to end up doing

now someone sell be a b16 for cheap!

lol

he obviously isnt going to be doing this work himself (or he wouldnt be asking us which enigne to go with)

the shop is going to charge ALOT extra to do the H22 setup vs. the easy bolt in b-series swap.. h22 is alot of fucking around.. you need to use the search function and read up..


you can get LS swaps from junkyards for a grand.. you arent going to get a complete H22 swap for that much..

dont forget engine management and paying a tuner

Re: (Zakar)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zakar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> he obviously isnt going to be doing this work himself (or he wouldnt be asking us which enigne to go with)

the shop is going to charge ALOT extra to do the H22 setup vs. the easy bolt in b-series swap.. h22 is alot of fucking around.. you need to use the search function and read up..


you can get LS swaps from junkyards for a grand.. you arent going to get a complete H22 swap for that much..

dont forget engine management and paying a tuner</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's why i never suggest an h22 swap, i suggest an h2b. it bolts in just as easy as a regular b-series swap. i did one today and took 45 min from start to finish to get it in. the only thing extra is the wiring you have ot extended in a few places

45 min?? with a pitcrew for support or what?

s13-t, what do you drive? What mods? What ETs?

No flaming... I'm picking up a EK with a H22 swap already done (got it for $2100), and just reading up. Thanks.

right now i'm driving an 03 WRX
i sold my last engine (2.1L ITR...RLZ built, carrillo rods, crower 92mm crank, aebs sleeves, RLZ cams and valvetrain, AN-R header, Jg sheetmetal intake manifold, etc..etc..) I never really got it all the way finished...but ran it a few times with a half ass tune and got an 8.3@88mph in the 1/8 on 185/65/14's.

i did just pick up another hatch though, and am going to be deciding what to do here soon. i have an h22 shortblock sitting and a few other shortblocks to choose from..just haven't decided yet since this is gonna ujst be a semi-fun daily driver...i've got other cars to be fast https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...s/emsmilep.gif

but, why i'm so prevalent at suggesting the h2b is it's just the smart thing to do. my old hatch got an h2b today and will be getting finished up after we finish the outside paint. we've got another sitting in the garage getting ready to start on doing the h2b for it too....and..probably toss one in my car too, but built and turbo for me...

Re: (s13-t)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s13-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

gear ratio's don't make power. the reason it makes more power is becasue the tranny takes less power to turn. kinda like a c4 vs. a th350.

but the WHOLE REASON behind it isn't gear ratio's either. it's so you have a BETTER tranny in place of the shithole stock h22 tranny. you get solid shaft shifting instead of limp wrist cable bullshit. you also get a lighter tranny, a tranny that sucks up less power, a tranny that has a vast plethora of gear ratio possibilities, a tranny that's easier to find if you need one on the spot, and you get rid of the shitty axle angles with the stock tranny as well. you can also use stock b series mounts for it that are so much more liveable than the aftermarket mount kits. oh, and you get more clutch options wiht twin disk being more avaible. oh, and better axles to choose from and more companies to decide between. oh, and more OE final drive choices as well...that'd save money over the aftermarket jobs. hmm...anything else?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you're trying to tell me that gearing has no effect on power output? Why don't you try doing a 3rd gear pull on a dyno and compair it to a 4th gear pull, then we'll talk.

h22 is 4.2:1 and the b16/gsr trannies are 4.4:1 that is going to effect the power output. the h series trans is built the way it is for a reason. The more weight isn't there for the hell of it, its there to back up the extra power that is made by that motor.

Don't you think if honda felt that the b-series trannies were so godly they would have made the bellhousing bolt pattern on the h/f seires motors the same as the b-series to save them money? Instead of redesigning a whole new platform and cable shifter setup. Which i'll admitt the cables aren't as crisp as the rod linkage, but doesn't sheps car run a cable shifted trans in the 7s now? And that tranny has seen more of a beating than us fwd honda guys could throw at it

Modified by b16hybridsol at 1:47 AM 2/20/2006


Modified by b16hybridsol at 1:48 AM 2/20/2006

Re: im stuck (Turbo-charged)
 

b16 is my last priority...
put a gsr...
or ls

Re: (b16hybridsol)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16hybridsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you're trying to tell me that gearing has no effect on power output? Why don't you try doing a 3rd gear pull on a dyno and compair it to a 4th gear pull, then we'll talk. that's tq you're dealing with...NOT POWER. you have more mechanical tq being put to the ground in 3rd gear than you do 4th, that's why there can be small traction problems. but a properly strapped in car will have no problems anyways

h22 is 4.2:1 and the b16/gsr trannies are 4.4:1 that is going to effect the power output. the h series trans is built the way it is for a reason. The more weight isn't there for the hell of it, its there to back up the extra power that is made by that motor. final drive doesn't affect power output! all trannies do is multiply tq from the engine! if you swap a 4.400FD to a 4.786FD..you don't pick up power or tq, but your car accelerates faster due to more mechanical tq at the ground. at the dyno, you recalibrate for the new FD which will take that extra mechanical tq into consideration when it does the math to find out you estimated power, and it'll be the same as ti was with a 4.400FD

Don't you think if honda felt that the b-series trannies were so godly they would have made the bellhousing bolt pattern on the h/f seires motors the same as the b-series to save them money? Instead of redesigning a whole new platform and cable shifter setup. Which i'll admitt the cables aren't as crisp as the rod linkage, but doesn't sheps car run a cable shifted trans in the 7s now? And that tranny has seen more of a beating than us fwd honda guys could throw at itok then, don't you think honda would have made the k series bolt into a civic/teg chassis if it was so goddamn perfect? don't you think honda would be smart enough to make an LS1 bolt into an S2000 since it's a FUCKTON better than an F20c? don't you think michael jackson would have been born a white woman if he had his way at birth? dude, you're making NO argument, just making a stupid observation. the h22 came in a different platform. Honda never intended for anyone to mix the h22 with a civic. Facts are facts, the b series tranny is BETTER than the h22 tranny. It's just as strong, lighter, better shifting, and has more gear options. h22 trannies even struggle to shift good past 8,000...let alone past 9,000. And how the FUCK does shep come into this? HE DRIVES A FUCKING DSM NOT A HONDA.

Modified by b16hybridsol at 1:47 AM 2/20/2006


Modified by b16hybridsol at 1:48 AM 2/20/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>