how to prime a turbo correctly? help here!!!!
just got my **** back together, can anybody explain the best way to prime my turbo, i just got a brand new turbonetics t3/to4e and the last thing i want to do is blow the seals or so some dumb **** like that,,, fyi, its on a 98 gsr swapped 93 hatch,, let me know something i dont know please,, my idea was to pull the plugs out,, crank the **** but how many times?? some one with a better understanding of this please let me know
thanks
thanks
go ahead and pull your fuel injector clips AND spark plugs if you want to so your motor doesn't start.
put a cap full of oil into the turbo center housing( its not too necessary, but it helps)
Disconnect the return line(the end going into the oil pan) and turn the motor over a few times or until oil starts flowing out of the return hose.
Thats pretty much when you have your turbo primed and you know oil is getting to your turbo.
put a cap full of oil into the turbo center housing( its not too necessary, but it helps)
Disconnect the return line(the end going into the oil pan) and turn the motor over a few times or until oil starts flowing out of the return hose.
Thats pretty much when you have your turbo primed and you know oil is getting to your turbo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LiLOtaku »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go ahead and pull your fuel injector clips AND spark plugs if you want to so your motor doesn't start. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i recommend pulling the ECU / main relay fuse. i've fried a coil / igniter doing this. that way the ecu isnt on or anything but the starter will still mechanically turn the motor over and pump oil.
just my 2 pesos.
i recommend pulling the ECU / main relay fuse. i've fried a coil / igniter doing this. that way the ecu isnt on or anything but the starter will still mechanically turn the motor over and pump oil.
just my 2 pesos.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i recommend pulling the ECU / main relay fuse. i've fried a coil / igniter doing this. that way the ecu isnt on or anything but the starter will still mechanically turn the motor over and pump oil.
just my 2 pesos.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
he's right, thats a good idea to do
however, you dont have 2 pesos to give fawker
i recommend pulling the ECU / main relay fuse. i've fried a coil / igniter doing this. that way the ecu isnt on or anything but the starter will still mechanically turn the motor over and pump oil.
just my 2 pesos.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
he's right, thats a good idea to do
however, you dont have 2 pesos to give fawker
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blufke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont even need to prime it. just make sure its all hooked up right(feed/return) and just start it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
negative, id say prime it.
negative, id say prime it.
Prime the LINE without attaching it to the turbo first to make sure anything foreign is flushed out, then connect it to the turbo.
Another $.02.
Another $.02.
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ok i think that the best bet here is to prime it, specifically with the return line off, that makes the most sense, thanks alot guys for the info.
why would you need to prime it when it will only be spinning at an about idle speed. youre not going to make much pressure just cranking the car either. we couldnt even get oil to come through the feed by just cranking it, but starting it got it going very nicely. i wouldnt worry about it. just dont start the car and rap it out in 1st immediately
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i recommend the disconnected drainline approach.
this will assure you that you have no blockage in either the drain or feed line before connecting the drain to the pan. as well as pre lube the cartridge for initial startup..
this will assure you that you have no blockage in either the drain or feed line before connecting the drain to the pan. as well as pre lube the cartridge for initial startup..
Off Topic:
cheapturbo i didnt know that you were a sponsor of this site!!
you guys did my rebuild on a mitsu td04 greddy turbo and i have been meaning to call and say thanks. the rebuild looked awesome and were boostin 11psi as of right now and all is working awesome. thanks a lot for the great advice and rebuild
cheapturbo i didnt know that you were a sponsor of this site!!
you guys did my rebuild on a mitsu td04 greddy turbo and i have been meaning to call and say thanks. the rebuild looked awesome and were boostin 11psi as of right now and all is working awesome. thanks a lot for the great advice and rebuild
To prime it pull out all 4 spark plug wires. Then crank the motor for 5 seconds. Then stop. Repeat that 4 times. That will put oil in the line for the turbo. Next put back on your spark plugs and start up th engine. Let in run for 10 mins to lube the turbo. Check for leaks during the 10 mins. If everything looks good you can take it for a drive. Just dont mash on it at first, drive around at low RPMs and listen for anything funny. If everything sounds good you are set.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboDANDEE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">too much damn work. all u have to do is disconnect the distributor plug and crank it up. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i still say pull the main relay fuse, so the injectors arent firing either!
i still say pull the main relay fuse, so the injectors arent firing either!
Not sure if this is the best way but i disconnected the line to on the turbo and cranked the car a few times, no oil came out but when accidently started the car for 5sec's and cutt it off, i had a pool of oil on the pavement, just make sure you have an oil pan at the end of that line ....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i still say pull the main relay fuse, so the injectors arent firing either!
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will the injectors fire if they aren't getting a crank signal from the distributor?
i still say pull the main relay fuse, so the injectors arent firing either!
</TD></TR></TABLE>will the injectors fire if they aren't getting a crank signal from the distributor?
I got a Revhard kit and the instructions say: "take out the ecu fuse then crank the engine until the oil dummy light turns off" then the turbo is primed. I think it took 10-15 seconds of cranking before my oil light turned off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerxadam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
will the injectors fire if they aren't getting a crank signal from the distributor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
*shrug* being an electrical engineer it doesnt make sense to leave some inputs/outputs unconnected from the ECU while firing it. thats how i fried my coil. for priming the turbo line, i tried disconnecting the distributor connector and it was more of a pain than the fuse.
will the injectors fire if they aren't getting a crank signal from the distributor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
*shrug* being an electrical engineer it doesnt make sense to leave some inputs/outputs unconnected from the ECU while firing it. thats how i fried my coil. for priming the turbo line, i tried disconnecting the distributor connector and it was more of a pain than the fuse.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dmotoguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about the instructions that come with the china turbos... hold the wheel with your fingers so it wont start spinning and start the car for a few seconds..
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That's dumb as hell. Even though a big turbo might not spin at idle, I would never put my hands near the compressor blades while the engine is on.
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That's dumb as hell. Even though a big turbo might not spin at idle, I would never put my hands near the compressor blades while the engine is on.
Holy crap some of you make it alot harder then it is. just pull the ECU fuse out so injectors do not fire. The spark plugs will still spark, but that's no big deal with no fuel. Just crank it until the oil light turns out and continue cranknig for a few seconds afterwards. Then oil pressure is built up within the motor, and oil has circulated through the turbo. No need to wrry about any kind of oil starvation when startup because oil presure has alrady been built.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK k kay »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's dumb as hell. Even though a big turbo might not spin at idle, I would never put my hands near the compressor blades while the engine is on.
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lolllllllllllll
That's dumb as hell. Even though a big turbo might not spin at idle, I would never put my hands near the compressor blades while the engine is on.
</TD></TR></TABLE>lolllllllllllll


