just wanted to do a survey for all you boosted heads out there...

we all know hondata is costly... whether or not you spend $1000 or more on the hondata 2b and some rc injectors. some people take the cheaper route and get dsm injectors. considering that the fmu and fuel pump is not a reliable fuel management system... do you think its really worth spending so much money to buy the hondata system and get it tuned? some of us out here only boost 5-9lbs at the most... seems like a good fmu ratio, fuel pump, and some tuning would be good enough.

 

Sure it is.

 

If "good enough" is ok for you, then no, don't buy a hondata. However, if you want your car to be as smooth, reliable, powerful, and predictable as a factory-turbocharged car, get a Hondata or other equivalent system.

 

 

keep the comments and votes comin guys!

 

consider this:
-you can get a 2b for $550 and get the dsm injectors & resistor box for $80 thats a total of $630
-or go w/bandaids, FMU is $150, AFC is 350-400, missing link $60, MSD BTM is about $150, thats a total of somewhere between $760-710

If you already have some of the band aids just sell them, I got all the money for my hondata from selling my band aids.

These are just rough estimates but you can see how its really not that much more, after you buy all the diff. band aids it ends up being the same thing if not more, plus I've used bandaids and had them break on me then are forced to replace them thats extra $$. Get all these things to work right and your car still will not run as good as it would have w/a hondata/standalone. Dont skimp where its most important, in the long run your going to be kicking yourself, and paying for it.
.ad.

 

when you break the costs of each down like that, you really put everything into perspective. i think i will really consider getting a hondata when i up the boost on my car.

i guess one of the things that always made me hesitant to get a hondata was the cost to tune it. do you know the average price of installation and tuning? thanks.

 

Only prob with hondata is that for an OBD2 car you need to get a hold of an OBD1 ECU (~$100) and an OBD2-obd1 converter harness ($150-250)

If you add it up that way, you're spending maybe $100-200 more than an FMU setup, but the the difference is Priceless(tm)

-Xerxes

 

well consider this ... if not for hondata, i would have never ever thought about going FI because the band-aid patchwork stuff did not appeal to me. i know the hondata isn't a 100% bulletproof solution for boosting but it's close enough for me.

who am i kidding .. if not for steve's groupbuy, i'll still be only thinking about boosting and not actually doing it hehe.

 

With hondata I thought you didnt need a resistor box w/ large injectors.

 

This is Exactly what I thought too!

 

100 for an ecu? thats cheap as hell. i paid 300 for my obd1 p72. I am very curious as to how the new AEM system is doing...the new plug and play and all the additional parameters in tuning make me wonder.

 

to the dumbfock who added the "search function" bullshit... SHUT THE &^@# UP with that shiet already. im doin a poll to see who thinks its worth it... not to get info about it. got flames for your "search happy" *** all day...

theres been so many posts on the topic of HONDATA that i felt it would be interesting to see who thought it was actually worth gettin after all the responses about the product. i, myself, just ordered one.


[Modified by dlplayboy, 10:00 PM 3/8/2002]


[Modified by dlplayboy, 12:23 AM 3/9/2002]

 

or u could go with the VAFC "hack"

 

I know my 5G Lude If I wanted to run a Hondata I would need an OBD 2 -> OBD 1 swap :

OBD 1 Donor ECU (P13 or P72)
OBD 1 Distributor
OBD 2 -> OBD 1 Harness
OBD 1 Lude Injectors (Peak and Hold) and resistor pack


[Modified by BlueShadow, 4:24 PM 3/9/2002]


[Modified by BlueShadow, 5:27 PM 3/9/2002]

 

i hope Doug sees this

 

resistor for PEAK AND HOLD!

 

The P72 is the best ECU to use. P30 and P28 are options.
Keep your stock distributor.
Keep your stock injectors unless you intend to boost.
Run 440cc injectors if you boost and will have under 250-300 whp
Run a resistor pack and bigger injectors if you intend to have over 300 hp.

 

a standalone is always the best way to go. i'm goign to be running an integralink because i got a good deal on one and i liked the fact that you don't have to burn a new chip every time you re-tune. but so many here have used the hondata with sucess, i'm sure its great, too.

 

i dont want to sound like a newbie, but what ecu comes in 94 integra rs/ls? a P74 am i correct?

and what car comes equipped with p72 ecu? GSR?





[Modified by dlplayboy, 2:59 PM 3/9/2002]

 

http://www.hondata.com/integra9295.html

 

cool... thanks

 

has anyone installed the shift light and rev limiter with their hondata? how hard was the install? or is it sold separately as an option to the unit? i thought it might come with it.

 

Dude, you are beating the hell out of the hondata questions. Sorry man, you have like 3 different posts going on about it. You are aware that there is a hondata website and they also have their own forums too. I dont know maybe Im just anxious to get mine.
I would say, chuck up the money and buy the bitch---then learn about it, I think you will be more pleased with the results.

 

if you bought at least the 2b, it will come with it.

haven't installed mine yet but it looks easy. they supply you with snaplocks if you don't feel comfortable soldering the wires together.

i'm still waiting for my 440's to come in then i'm going to install the hondata on my car even though i'm not boosting yet .. its only way to see if my handiwork is good or not hehe.