honda noob needing advice
I took in a 91 honda crx on a trade its got a b18 in it and it goes pretty good. Theguy said the motor had 90k on it but i can see it does burn a little oil its got dc sport headers some kind of an exhaust idk lol. Im currently doing body work to it its some kind of a forest green which is ugly but i bought paint for it i got white so its easier to work with. Anyways i was thinking about throwing in some new rings and grinding the valves and throwing on a little 8 psi ebay turbo kit. It doesnt have a hydroulic clutch and it grabs really friggen hard compared to my old 2wd ranger is this normal? Anyways just let me know what you guys out there think
Welcome to the site.
Research, read, rinse and repeat.
https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...2A%2A-1024174/
This is an old write and not too many of the parts are used nowadays. But it has alot of good information your going to need to get an idea of what your getting yourself into.
G2IC Turbo Guide - A Guide to Turbocharging your Honda / Acura Integra
Research, read, rinse and repeat.
https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...2A%2A-1024174/
This is an old write and not too many of the parts are used nowadays. But it has alot of good information your going to need to get an idea of what your getting yourself into.
G2IC Turbo Guide - A Guide to Turbocharging your Honda / Acura Integra
Ebay turbo kits are cheap, knock-off parts that will give you nothing but headaches. Save your money for something worthwhile. Also, get the notion of PSI out of your head - 8psi on a small turbocharger is not the same as 8psi on a large one. Set your goals in terms of whp and build the setup around it. FYI, any time one of us hears "how many psi" or "i'm going to run 8psi", we immediately know you have no clue what you're doing...its the rookie mistake
My advice: Read and research - you dont want to rely on the opinions of others. Understand the subject matter for yourself and make an informed decision
My advice: Read and research - you dont want to rely on the opinions of others. Understand the subject matter for yourself and make an informed decision
For a low power setup, a really good, name-brand intercooler probably isn't necessary; however, you can get good middle of the road ICs for relatively cheap. I wouldnt recommend buying some cheap intercooler off eBay, instead, i would get a Vibrant IC or find a used one in the marketplace.
http://speedtrappconsulting.com/Inte...e-Intercoolers
The 350hp or 550hp rated ones would do fine.
http://speedtrappconsulting.com/Inte...e-Intercoolers
The 350hp or 550hp rated ones would do fine.
Mishimoto M-line ( i think) is the smaller intercooler and will work fine. Can be found cheap and has a lifetime warranty.. even if you crash the car, they will replace it.
What about the ecm? Do i have to get a new one to change my air fuel mixtures or is it fine to run the stock chip and stock pistons with new rings or do i need high compression. Another thing is what is a decent small turbo at a good price i know some people are gonna tell me to get a garett or something but i just frankly dont have that kind of money
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If you don't have the money for a good turbo, you don't have the money for boost. It's simple as that. You have to pay to play, and if you can't pay, you can't play. Save your pennies until you can afford something good.
It's painfully obvious that you haven't even tried to read the FAQ sticky. Go read it, then figure out where you're going to find the ~$2k bare minimum that it'll cost to boost properly.
It's painfully obvious that you haven't even tried to read the FAQ sticky. Go read it, then figure out where you're going to find the ~$2k bare minimum that it'll cost to boost properly.
personally id get a johnnyracecar intercooler lolz
you can make it happen on a small budget. you have to have patience to find used parts and have the knowledge to 100% of the work yourself or with friends what have you.
im using an old school t3t4 60-1 i bought it used with a few thousand miles off a guy on a local forum right around 2010 for 280 dollars. its been taking 15+ psi and making my car a low 11 sec shitbox for years now
you can make it happen on a small budget. you have to have patience to find used parts and have the knowledge to 100% of the work yourself or with friends what have you.
im using an old school t3t4 60-1 i bought it used with a few thousand miles off a guy on a local forum right around 2010 for 280 dollars. its been taking 15+ psi and making my car a low 11 sec shitbox for years now
Used turbos are an option. They're a bit of a crapshoot, but still an option. My 15G ran for a year or two before the oil seals finally gave out, and I was far from gentle to that setup. Paid $500 for the turbo, manifold, and downpipe back when I got it. You have to be VERY careful when buying used turbos, though. It's easy to pawn off a bad turbo, a shitty rebuild, or just garbage parts on someone who doesn't know what they're looking for.
Used turbos are an option. They're a bit of a crapshoot, but still an option. My 15G ran for a year or two before the oil seals finally gave out, and I was far from gentle to that setup. Paid $500 for the turbo, manifold, and downpipe back when I got it. You have to be VERY careful when buying used turbos, though. It's easy to pawn off a bad turbo, a shitty rebuild, or just garbage parts on someone who doesn't know what they're looking for.
Actually, media blasting (or using walnut blast) cartridges are quite common during full rebuild process, provided that the oil orifices are properly taped, and the compressor backplate and heat shield sealed off from debris. In many cases, the cartridge is blasted and cleaned before new internals are put in, so that the rebuilder can ensure that no further debris has entered into the system. But that's if they've done it carefully and properly.
So, don't knock it until you know what's done.
So, don't knock it until you know what's done.
Actually, media blasting (or using walnut blast) cartridges are quite common during full rebuild process, provided that the oil orifices are properly taped, and the compressor backplate and heat shield sealed off from debris. In many cases, the cartridge is blasted and cleaned before new internals are put in, so that the rebuilder can ensure that no further debris has entered into the system. But that's if they've done it carefully and properly.
So, don't knock it until you know what's done.
So, don't knock it until you know what's done.

oh no this was no professional rebuild, nor was it actually taken apart. It appeared they were trying to clean the oil off of the turbo without dissembling it. So the oil residue on the inside caked all of the media. If it was done properly I could see it being a good thing to use but this was no where near what you're talking about haha this was a half *** deal. The bearing was so loose the wheel was about touching the compressor wall as well
i tell ya what ive been keeping an eye out for inline pro manifolds just to have for randomness in the future. they are certainly wayy better than any ebay crap, have been proven to make tons of power for what they are and every so often pop up used for around 200 bucks
Basically, you have to do a full bottom end rebuild
Don't you also have to run VTEC pistons, for P2V clearance? I don't know, I've never been a fan of frankenmotors. Also, lol@thinking an LSV, B20V, G23, minime, or whatever else people are coming up with is even remotely a replacement for FI.
Lol unless you make a franken motor and then boost it!
I think you only run into piston to valve issues with cams larger than type r's.
Its the rod bolts letting go I would be more concerned with
I think you only run into piston to valve issues with cams larger than type r's.
Its the rod bolts letting go I would be more concerned with
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