any updates?

 

No new updates yet. Still waiting on cams to come from regrind process and need to get my valvetrain (trying to work out deal with friend on trade )

I'll update the thread though as soon as I get some stuff done. However, if anyone has had this issue, please continue to chime in.

 

I want to know if the dizzy swap worked but I have been noticing a decrease in power with me too, and the dizzy hasn't been replaced since I bought it new in 1998

 

Yeah, it's going to be a while. The cams are taking longer than anticipated for the regrind.

Also, if you're DECREASING in power it could be other things as well. Give some more information about the problem.

Mine was a weird case where two totally different setups yielded the same power curve. And when I increased the boost, the power would only go up very little. Also, I was losing a lot of power in the upper RPM's.

 

Update for me big mike.

My loss of power was coming from a couple things. First I had boost leaks in some strange places. I put an air compressor on my boost system and found leaks by the iacv valve. Not where it bolts to the manifold, it was leaking big time from where the iacv solenoid mates with the casing.

I was also getting leaks from around the id 1000s. I don't know if I ever got the correct seal kit that's supposed to come with these injectors on a Honda B series. Changed Iacv and put some pipe thread Teflon around the injectors at the bottom. Leaks gone. Then I realised I was hearing a hissing sound from under the ramhorn where the v44 mates to it. A hairline crack was progressing around the wastegate flange. Got that welded and replaced my dizzy coil with one of the Accel supercoils. ( I just did it because my dizzy was from an OBD 1 b16 that could probably need refreshing and I couldn't find a new TEC coil at a good price.)

Result: Tyres roasting again and hitting 18 psi @ 5000-5300 there about thanks to Neptune RTP bbg. I have no dynos here on the island so I can't tell you how much hp.

I can't stress enough bigmike, Check for boostleaks. I have t clamps on everything but was still leaking from some weird places. If you have no leaks, then I can only think cam timing/ some sort of timing issue.

 

Yeah, boost leaks are good because I've tested for those and boost builds like it should. I have two separate setups and the dyno curve could almost overlay each other (one with less timing though, I'm guessing from wrong gas).

I'm just hoping that the spark was one of the things holding me down. I will look again for boost leaks before I go get tuned. I am just really nervous about the process because I had a lot of issues after I did the last check (adding air through turbo). If I did it again I'd probably just add the air after the turbo in the charge piping.

 

We have something in common then. I just got my car back from the shop to replace the front wheel bearing, brakes, and put it through national inspection. It was running like crap before...high boost/ no power just like you.

They found a nice sized gap between the flange on the exhaust manifold and he turbo, because the flange had warped a bit. they resurfaced the flanges and put gaskets everywhere to eliminate all of the leaks.

The result: OMFG, I have never been so happy to not have traction again. Nicest feeling in the world to feel that huge kick in the butt when the turbo spools and the VTEC kicks in.

 

I'm glad to hear your car is running much better now MiraiZ. But I'm thinking my problem lies differently than an exhaust or boost leak.

A pre-turbo exhaust leak should make your turbo spool slower and possibly not even get to full boost. This doesn't seem like the type of problem I'm having.

 

Hey that's the strange part, the gauges and the CPU commander was telling me I was getting full boost, but it wasn't efficient boost. The turbo was probably spooling way past its optimum efficiency to produce the same amount boost. I can totally tell that the turbo isn't spooling as fast as it was before and yet its producing a lot of boost pressure, so its a lot more efficient now. Might want to do a once over to make sure you're not leaking anywhere. A small leak makes a world of difference

 

OK. I'll double check it once more.

I just can't see it being the issue since I changed the turbo, manifold, and intercooler piping setup, downpipe, and exhaust. It's just weird.

 

Had another thought about my detonation issue too, but I forgot to check....

I might have been given the wrong plugs at the parts store last time too. If they're too hot, then that could cause some issues. That would explain why it happened on the second dyno trip too because I had just put in a fresh set. I believe I still have the box at home, so I'll have to double check the part number and see what it comes up with. This is just me trying to think of some stuff while I'm waiting on my cams and whatnot.

Also, it was a little chilly outside this morning, so the car felt great! LOL

 

That could be a reason, post up the part number of the plugs.

Chilly in Texas lol, i thought it was red hot all year round.

 

I knew Rich would reply! I'll have to check out that plug box tonight when I go home. I put the "old" plugs in there incase I needed some in a pinch (or on dyno).

I'm right on the coast so, I get ALL kinds of weather. And it can be a 40*+ change in a week. LOL It's usually hot and humid, but we can have some winter spells. It wasn't freezing this morning at around 48*, but it was enough to make it nice. We've even got mosquitos already down here.

 

Ha,ha yeah i've kept my eye on this thread lol. Are they NGK plugs ? Make sure the heat range is a 7 and no hotter.

Damn that's changed the picture i had in my head lol. I always paint a picture of these places in my head but they never even come close to been correct lol. I know there's plenty of cowboys riding around out there on horses though j/k I want to visit Texas sometime in the future to see what its actually like.

 

BTW, its suppose to be 14f tonight over here so consider your self lucky lol.

 

Yes it get chilly here in texas but not for very long. Its about 45 this morning in Port Aransas, TX. But im from new england so im still wearing shorts and t-shirts during the day here LOL. Bigmike sorry about the wait on the cams. I'm keeping after them though and will keep the proccess as fast as possible. I will be calling them today to see that the masters were being done. you wont be dissapointed once you get them. If your Dizzy doesnt work out let me know i have several LS dizzy's laying around and would be happy to donate one to you for your patience.

What management are you running again? What kind of ignition timing are you running?

 

Yeah, the weather around here is VERY fickle. And Rich, depending on what part of Texas you travel to is what you will see. LOL East TX is woody with pine trees, West is hills and a lot of nothing, the coast is a lot of industry and ZERO hills. LOL

They are NGK's, but I didn't even check them when I got them from my cousin (works at auto parts store). I will double check the heat range tonight. I know a "stock" or hotter plug would definitely be giving me issues.

Justin - Thanks for touching base on the thread. I appreciate all of your help with the cams. I'm not in a huge rush since I'm still able to drive the car right now. LOL I'm sure they will come out great once I get them installed. And I appreciate the offer too about the dizzy. If this doesn't work out I'll have to get with you about it. I have one of the best ones I could think of installed right now (JDM CRV OBD2, that looks spotless internally, see previous post), so hopefully it will work out. I also need to do some resistance checks on the old dizzy to see the health of it.

I'm running Neptune RTP and my timing is the same as what I sent you previously minus 5* I believe. This was due to the detonation on the second dyno trip (possible bad/incorrect gas or plugs). If you want specific numbers, I'll have to get back to you after looking at home.

 

Yeah i cant find the file, if you could get back to me with specific numbers that would be great. To little timng will cause heat and detonation just as much as to much timing. I believe i have a minty jdm b20 obd2 unit somewhere if you end up needing one. Otherwise i have several obd1's

 

The timing was pulled DUE to the detonation. LOL BUT, the car did make similar power on less timing, so that was good. However, I'll hopefully have all issues sorted next go around.

 

Cool, yeah if it doesnt make much more power on more timing its best to run less for longevity and still make almost the same power IMO

 

OK. I just looked at the box and they are stock number 4091 plugs from NGK. So, I was safe with the heat range of 7, but it's also a non-resistor plug (not sure if that makes a difference). I know that the non resistor plug can possibly interfere with other electronics.

These are the details about it...

Racing Plug, 14mm Thread Size, 19mm (3/4") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Non-Resistor, Solid Terminal Nut, V-Power (V-Grooved Center Electrode), .031" (0.8mm) Gap, Heat Range 7

NGK's unique V-Power racing plug provides racing performance at an economical price. Designed to direct the spark to the edge of the electrode where it develops more rapidly, this increases ignitability allowing the engine to burn air/fuel ratios that would otherwise be too lean. Traditional ground electrode. In addition the NGK V-Power racing plugs are constructed with a copper core and triple interior seal.

From what I understand, the plug I should be running is stock number 4644, which has these specs....

V-Power Plug, 14mm Thread Size, 19mm (3/4") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor, Solid Terminal Nut, ISO Length, Projected Tip, V-Power (V-Grooved Center Electrode), .035" (0.9mm) Gap, Heat Range 7

NGK's unique V-Power design directs the spark to the edge of the electrode where it develops more rapidly, this increases ignitability even in lean burn conditions. In addition the NGK V-Power plug has all the features of their traditional plugs including corrugated ribs, pure alumina silicate ceramic insulator for greater strength and better heat transfer, copper core and triple interior seal.

Anyways, I'm going to make sure and get a set of these next time unless otherwise specified. I will also be running a gap of about .028-.030" to start with unless someone convinces me of a different route. Just wanted to update the thread.

 

you need to get a resistor style plug. that will absolutly mess with your ecu and can be causing your detonation issues.

Look into the 4644 which is bkr7e plugs or 7173 which is r5672a-8 for over 500whp

 

Yeah, the plan is 4644 with the next trip. Only shooting for 300-350

 

I have same problem here in Poland with my D16A9 turbo engine, 250 hp is all with 0,9 bar, same power with 1,3 bar. I did all suggestions you all mentioned, bought new dizzy. Last idea I have is that dizzy does not get proper current while hight rev, i will check main fuse box and ignition switch next weekend. The one clue I have is that it is difficult to start while cold, spark plugs get wet. I have 1V voltage drop while starting engine between fuse box and coil. I hope that is a reason. Any other idea?

 

Sorry to hear about your issues. I hope my dizzy fixes the problem, but please let me know what you find out with yours. What chassis are you running the motor in?? If you're correct, it would be a "chassis/body" wiring type issue. Thanks