ok here's the setup 94 si, walbo 255lph, marshal liquid filled gauge, b+m regulator. fuel pressure is 50 with stock regulator, and 42 at lowest with b+m. any way was going to try the endyne solution but I cant find a .035 bit. the smallest I can find is 1/16(.0625). so does anyone know where these bits are, or better yet can someone recommend a good fpr that MOUNTS TO THE STOCK RAIL, BESIDES AEM. thanks

 

aeromotive

 

why? cause its a big name brand and is expensive?

 

Ive got over 20 thousand invested in my civic ,I dont think an AEM fpr is going to put a dent in my pockets. I just dont want an AEM.

 

i know alot of people use them with success....alot of people wont recommend anything but that...sorry if i stepped on a nerve haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raiden571 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why? cause its a big name brand and is expensive?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually I was referring to this response , but now that I read it again maybe I jumped to a conclusion. sorry , but anyway , I'm asking because a buddy of mine used to have a fpr on his 97 lude that was a direct bolt on and had the gauge on it. I thought it was a really nice piece. and as for aem I just dont get into the big name hype, because i'm sure there are better regulators out there.

 

Aeromotive FPR 13116 will fit into the stock location.

http://216.242.145.16/products...rge=2

 

thats what Im talkin about. thats a nice looking piece

 

Yep, few people seem to be running the Aeromotive bolt on FPR, but I had already planned on purchasing one. Kind of pricy when compared with a non bolt on FPR, but a simple bolt on to the stock fuel rail is good enough for me.

 

im not saying there bad, we used all aeromotive stuff on a all chevy nova that put out 780hp, but that was because he got a huge discount from summit. aeromotive is great ****, its just expensive and not entirely practical for the everyday joe.
if u got the cash, tear it up. but for a college kid working part time like myself, id rather use that cash toward something else on the mobile

 

they arent THAT expensive...

 

there not that bad. but u have to figure, does he really need something like that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

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be careful with that....if you have an intake manifold such as a venom like me it may not work....you should just go with the one that doesnt mount on the rail and run -AN lines to it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raiden571 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there not that bad. but u have to figure, does he really need something like that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

5THGENSI, says he's got at least $20K already invested in his Civic, so the $180-$190 for the Aeromotive FPR is probably just a drop in the bucket to him. He says he doesn't want AEM, and the stock FPR causes his stock pressure to go up to 50 psi.

 

aeromotive now has a rail mounted reg.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aeromotive now has a rail mounted reg.
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for reals?

 

The Aeromotive 13109 I think it is is only $135 from Summit.
B&M = junk.
I used AEM's for years with no issues, but they cost a bit more.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Aeromotive 13109 I think it is is only $135 from Summit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Although the 13109 might cost less at first glance, once you start to add up the other parts to get the 13109 installed then you exceed the cost of the rail mounted FPR. IIRC most places sell the fittings seperately. And I think the the only fitting you get for the 13109 is the vacuum fitting.

one ORB to AN fitting = $14-$16 depending on size
one ORB plug = $6-$12 depending on size
one ORB to 7mm barbed nipple for stock return = $20
some SS line = $6-$10 per foot depending on size

And then you have hose ends where the type and quantity will vary from setup to setup.
straight AN hose end = $7-$13 depending on size
45 degree AN hose end = $22-$31 depending on size
90 degree AN hose end = $22-$31 depending on size

And if you are using the stock fuel rail you'll have to get the stock FPR hole drilled and tapped so you can put a NPT fitting in there.
NPT fitting = $3-$6
machining stock fuel rail = $$$

If you choose to use an aftermarket fuel rail you might also have to get a new feed line and fittings to go from the fuel filter to the fuel rail inlet. The type of and number of hose end fittings will depend on your setup.
some SS line = $6-$10 per foot depending on size
straight AN hose end = $7-$13 depending on size
90 degree AN hose end = $22-$31 depending on size
120 degree AN hose end = $30-$37 depending on size
AN ORB to AN fitting for fuel rail inlet = $14-$16 depending on size
12x1.25mm to AN fitting for fuel filter = $7

So I figure you'd have to add another $78-$136 depending on the type of hose and fitting sizes, plus the cost to machine the stock fuel rail (or just DIY). Then if you wanted to do the fuel feed line too that's another $70-$93. Just a word of caution to people who think they are saving money by getting the Aeromotive 13109 FPR which is a remote/bypass FPR that does not mount on the rail. You'll end up spending more money then a rail mounted FPR.

 

Cost a little more, but shouldnt be too bad. I got all my fittings from Summit today for my Supra for $50 No line ordered yet though.
But still. $200 around is the norm for a good regulator. If someone can afford turbo and built motors and wants to skimp on good fuel, thats no good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But still. $200 around is the norm for a good regulator. If someone can afford turbo and built motors and wants to skimp on good fuel, thats no good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was just posting that info up so nobody gets surpirsed when they find out they have to run other lines/fittings for the 13109.

 

i run the 13109, and it fits fine and works great.

you can get extra fuel line at any local parts store cheap. like maybe $10 bucks. not sure what lines these guys are talking about that cost so much. it's not needed.


platinum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i run the 13109, and it fits fine and works great.

you can get extra fuel line at any local parts store cheap. like maybe $10 bucks. not sure what lines these guys are talking about that cost so much. it's not needed.


platinum.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you dont know what kind of hose and fittings I'm talking about maybe you should check out the link below. Some people choose to run the 13109 directly onto the rail, but other people run it on the firewall or chassis somewhere. If you mount the FPR to the chassis or firewall away from the rail then you are going to need more then $10 worth of fuel line to connect the two.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=577983



Look at the pic and see what kind of hose and hose fittings are being used. Since the 13109 has two inlets you need an AN to o-ring boss plug to plug one hole. Then you need an AN o-ring boss to AN fitting for the fuel inlet. Then you're gonna have to connect the FPR to the fuel rail. So you'll use a hose end fitting (straight, 45degree or 90 degree) and then of course the SS hose followed by another hose end fitting (straight, 45degree or 90degree). Then if you want to use your stock fuel rail you have to bore out the stock FPR hole to the right NPT size and then install an NPT to AN adapter. That's how you connect the 13109 FPR to the fuel rail, unless you want to connect the FPR directly onto the fuel rail. In which case you can loose the hose ends and SS hose and replace it with a AN coupler: straight, 45degree or 90degree whichever one will allow the FPR to fit. AFAIK the 13109 doesn't come with any fittings other then the vacuum fitting.

 

i agree with that, but why would you run the FPR on the firewall when it's made for the rail?

buy a different FPR, or is it because the 13109 is cheap.

platinum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree with that, but why would you run the FPR on the firewall when it's made for the rail?

buy a different FPR, or is it because the 13109 is cheap.

platinum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The 13109 is not designed for the rail, it designed to be remotely mounted in the engine bay. The 13101/13109 can be mounted to the rail but on cars like the CRX there barely enough room on the driver side of the rail for a straight AN coupler, and a 90 degree AN coupler may or may not fit. It can be mounted on the passenger side of the rail but at this point you need a aftermarket rail, and you'll need an aftermarket feed line (SS lines and fittings) so that you can screw it into the driver side of the rail. The 13115/13116 (adjustable) are the OEM replacements which can fit into the stock FPR location. It sounds like you have your Aeromotive FPR's mixed up.

13101/13109-Bypass FPR
2 inlets on either side and 1 outlet on the bottom


13115/13116-OEM replacement
1 inlet on the backside (OEM style), 1 outlet on the bottom

 

oh lord, i have been talking about the wrong regulator the whole time. i run the 13115.

thanks for the clarification, and not being a jerk about it

platinum.