well this is my first turbo build and i dont wanna f it up, but the plan is to get an ebay turbo (yes i know its not the best way to go) i will eventually upgrade if i end up liking it. my d16z6 is mainly stock internals so low boost is what im going for since this will be my DD. My whp goals are 160-180 so it isnt much, i just a little more kick out of driving. open to any suggestions thanks

 

Suggestion #1 - Do not buy eBay turbo parts. You will end up replacing almost all of them. The turbos are unreliable, wastegates are junk, bovs leak and the manifolds crack...unless you like working on your car more than driving it, I would avoid cheap parts.

Your goals are reasonable on the stock block (220-240whp is the safe limit), but I would spend time researching setups and reading the Forced Induction FAQ.

Also, what is your budget?

 

my budget is around 2000, would piecing together a kit make for a much better, reliable build? i can pick up a turbo from a greddy kit with intercooler and piping for $200, is this a good buy?

 

Piecing a kit together would be my suggestion; however, it is easy to buy mis-matched parts if you dont know what you're doing. Before buying ANYTHING, read and research. Many setups have passed through this forum and the ones who dive right in without doing the proper research end up selling the setups off 4-6 months later.

As for the Greddy setup - idk. It wouldnt be my choice, but i'm sure someone will chime in.

 

would turbos off a volvo or jettas work? im kind of clueless about the turbo i would need to meet my goals. i know everything else i will need and i have already compiled a list of stuff and i should be picking them up today. just need the turbo now

 

If all I wanted was 160whp I would go old school with an FMU. There used to be a guy here that had an HF manifold with an internally gated T25 on it. It wasn't even intercooled pipe went from turbo to throttle body. He had a 12:1 Vortech FMU and MSD ignition with boost retard. The car ran low 14's for years like that.

 

I was thinking about an fmu since i just want 160-180 whp, so what exactly would i have to run thenis there no need for an intercooler? Another option i thought of was greddy emange but i wasnt to sure if it worked with boosted applications

 

FMU hacks are never an acceptable tuning option. Just because "that guy over there" did it, doesn't make it a good idea.

The Greddy turbo is a good little option, especially for that price. Volvo and Jetta turbos, for the most part, have funny flanges and/or outlets and/or J pipes that make them awkward to put on a Honda. The greddy kit should be internally gated at ~6 PSI, and also came without an intercooler back when it was new - you can safely make 160 without worrying about an intercooler.

I would take this as an opportunity to learn how to tune yourself. Pick up a Moates Ostrich, your choice of software (Neptune, Chrome, and S300 are popular), a chipped ECU, a wideband O2 sensor, and a basemap to start on, and work from there until your O2's are safe throughout the RPM range.

Alternatively, if you don't want to learn it, or don't feel comfortable doing it, find a tuner and get it properly tuned, professionally.

 

If you are within the limits of the stock injectors I don't see a problem with a FMU for an ultra low budget set-up. Having said that of course a tune is the better option.

 

This is what I was going to post about a T25 and an HF manifold.
I have to agree with NotARacist on the FMU though.
It's not really a good option these days mainly because there are alternative options that do a significantly better job.
Getting it professionally tune just for +40~60hp is pricey ($500 or so depending), but it's the BEST option for piece of mind.

Personally, I would probably just go FMU, keep the boost low, and run a wideband so you can keep an eye on what is going on.
However stick to a plan of replacing the engine and setup in a year. You will learn quite a bit just having the budget setup and the turbo bug will sink its teeth into your soul. you will have the NEED for more boost and you can concentrate on building properly.
If you don't have the funds to save up at least $5000+ in the next year to blow on a new setup, then completely ignore me.

 

Whats an estimate of how long my engine could last on low boost with the fmu? Ive only got around 63-64k on it, dont plan on beating on it too much, and i honestly would go h22 or j32 later on if the z6 dies on me

 

As for tuning i cant grasp the concept of it im clueless about it

 

Anyone have any luck with these? Any gains seen on turbo applications? I know abou the issues with these,but im sure someone resolved these and actually got this thing to work

 

I havent seen anything OBX related have any type of quality..


So take that for what its worth.

 

First question: Is this car a RACE ONLY plan or a daily driver ??? If it is the latter... make a flower pot out of it... and then use a Y8 Intake mani. If you wanna splurge, get a Skunk2.

 

ticking time bomb with an invisible fuse.

 

I had one when they were a "new" company, before they were sticking their name on their parts. It was essentially nothing different from a Y8 IM - the runners were just a little longer, and a tiny bit bigger. Better for top end than OEM. Would I recommend anyone actually spend the money on it? Newp. If I got one for free, would I use it again? Yup.

 

What about golden eagle im? What are the gains on n/a vs turbo?

 

another conflict has arisen, i found a b18 ls/v for only 450, not sure what to do now

 

I dont think GE makes one for the D16.. Or do they..?



Before we get into all the back and forth on an intake manifold..

What is this build going to be used for?
What power goal are you looking at?
Why do you need one of these anyways?

 

^^
YOu need to figure out your goals and your budget


You seem to have 2 grand burning a hole in your pocket.



My suggestion: Leave it there!

Your trying to go cheap on a turbo kit which is never a good idea. You havent researched what other supporting parts are needed besides a kit that will end up costing 5-600 bucks on top of the kit.

B18 LS vtec for 450 sounds too cheap for me to even look at it. either its stolen or about to blow up.

 

The best advise u can give you is do it right the first time.

You will like turbo.. its addicting so just do it right.

 

thanks for the help guys, really appreciate it, im honestly think a swap would be more reliable to reach my power goal

 

turns out i also had vitara pistons without knowing lol found out today after changing headgasket

 

just wanted to see if it actually would be worth using in the future if i ever decide what im gonna do