I have a '95 Honda Civic CX as a project car. I intend to turbo the engine after I motorswap it. I am currently trying to determine which engine swap is better suited for heavy turbo boost: the B16A or the B18C1?

I like the B18C1 since a friend of mine with one in his hatchback was able to hang next to my other car, a S2000, in the quarter mile, BUT I hear that the B16A might be a better choice because it is cheaper and it has a better rod ratio. Comments? Help! I know nothing on this topic.

 

About the same...relatively, they're both not too good for turbo applications because of the high compression...but there are ways around it...thicker head gaskets to lower the compression or if you're really serious low compression rods and pistons....its very possible...but need to be more careful!


[Modified by MiraiZ, 7:56 PM 9/22/2001]

 

Oh, well I will definately lower the compression with aftermarket pistons as well as installing tougher rods, retainer springs, and having the block sleeved. All that being said, however, I have been told to go B16A by some motor guys in my area. They insist that boost will build quicker and more reliably with the B16A because it revs quicker. What am I loosing by not going with the more expensive B18C1 instead? Keep in mind I'll be boosting the hell out of the car (starting with 8psi, then going to between 16 and 18 after the engine is built with pistons/rods/rings/springs/sleeved).

 

I'd take the 1.8L...the extra displacement will yield more torque!

 

Yeah, but if you are going to turbo, would you want more torque from the standalone engine? Keep in mind that this is a FWD import, which means traction is tough to begin with -- tougher to get traction if you have more torque.

 

good tires an engines mounts will help... higher revs are okay ...but if you have a good setup with a turbine that spins effortlessly...lag will not be such an issue. Building off a 1.8L is a bit better than a 1.6L...both are great stand alone engines though!

 

They are both good motors but if you can afford the B18C1 then go with that. It's got the half girdle that the B16 doesnt and it's got some more displacement. There shouldnt even be any question

 

Get the B18c1. NOW DAMIT NOW

 

You are worried about losing tractiong because of too much torque?

What do you think boost adds?

Dustin

 

B18C if u got the money.. sounds like ya do, b18B if u dont got the money and plan on not building the motor or anything... B16a is good but displacement will always benefit with boost

 

the local shade tree mechanic Honda guru says i should go b16a because it's cheaper to buy, cheaper to replace the block, and revs quicker. everyone else tells me to go with the b18c1, which includes one guy who has a 4th gen civic hatch with a b16a and a turbo in the mid 12's. so, i guess i should go with the b18c1 then. thanks for the information, though. i really appreciate the input.

 

b18c1

 

jinxproof99: wow! um, this is asking alot, and if you say no, i completely understand, but what precautions did you take to make your engine bulletproof for that amount of boost. i'm sure you did the pistons/rods/rings/retainersprings/sleevedblock, but i'm interested in specifics like: brands of the above you like, what machine shop you used for the sleeving work, what fuel management system you are using (along with what injectors you chose). if you say no, i understand, but if it is okay with you, i'd really like to hear more.

 

jinxproof has a stock block.

 

he's right, he is running a stock block/internals, using an FMU and VAFC for engine management, he does have a thicker head gasket though.....I couldn't believe my own eyes when he ran an 11second quarter mile on race gas, w/ a virtually stock engine.....

 

how many pounds of boost is he putting through that stock block? must be less than 12 psi to be keeping it together bone stock.

 

ok if you must know, i'll give you my secrets. go to your local acura dealer and order a stock b18c1 with stock head, pistons, rods, block, crank, stroke, bore, blah, blah, blah. then call inline pro and they'll take it from there.

20 lbs of boost......daily driven


[Modified by jinxproof99, 4:39 PM 9/23/2001]

 

20 psi?!?!?!?!? wow! does inline pro have a web site?

 

http://www.inlinepro.com/

 

Wrong, it's all about tuning. I've seen 14+ several times reliably on stock bottom ends.

 

b16a vs b18c1
come on....
gsr ....and stay high compression!!! get yourself a standalone system and that high CR will throw you into boost so quick.

you gotta do rods and pistons to aid in safety. if you do all the lil engine management band-aids you will see you could have spent a little more and you will have a perfect air and fuel controlling system.


think it through and have fun!

also w/ the right tuning/ fuel controlling/timing controlling /air controlling(boost controller)
20psi stock is possible....no doubt

 

wow. everybody in memphis where i live believes that you must go down to ultra low compression pistons, put in badass rods, tough value springs, and then sleeve the block just to run more that 10 psi boost reliably. hmm. so you think that with quality fuel injectors and a good standalone fuel management system (like a stage 4b hondata) will do the trick for 12 psi boost daily driven on a stock engine?

 

Yes I have told you that before. Its all about the tuning. You can run 15psi on the stock block with great tuning. Low compression sucks.

 

ah .. my good friend josh arrives on the scene

josh, why does everybody try to tell me to sleeve the block, and put in low comp pistons, and better rods and all that **** if i don't really need it?

ah, **** it. i'll just buy my motorswap, hondata stage 4b, and some 770cc injectors. then turbo the bitch.

 

i run 14psi on my stock block..its all about tuning...

liam