Thank you jesus lol, even google couldn't give me answers on my turdbo

stupid question, what does the efficiency percentage mean? or how do you calculate that or take that into consideration?

 

The quick and the dead of it is that the efficiency percentages represent adiabatic efficiencies in what is called an Isentrophic process. When test operators want to find the parameters of steady-flow rate mechanisms (like compressors) in order to calculate their efficiencies (or lack thereof), they use adiabatic efficiency calculations in these tests to determine when the compressor works best (when it compresses with the least amount of exothermic heat), and when it works the least, (when you're basically just Blowing hot air into the intake plenum and the cylinder head )

So, let's say that a 100% adiabatic efficient compressor is exactly the point in which no heat is added or taken away from the job of compressing the air. (To be fair, there is no such thing as a 100% efficient machine), but the efficiency of each compressor is rated relative to that figure.

Anything below 60% of efficiency means that the engine and the compressor are mismatched.

 

The Hunter is 30 based and very cost effective. You can get it in journal or ball bearing and has a billet compressor wheel similar to the gtx series capable of 53 lbs per minute

 

Hunter???

 

I looked on Garretts website and it looks like the Turbochargers - GT3071R (1) is the turbo that fits the best.

 

Check Speed Trapp Consulting

 

Wow this turbo only comes in ball bearing.$$$$$$$$$$$$$

 

which are you referring to?. Anything with GTR or GTX-R comes in ball-bearing. The EFR series is ceramic ball-bearing. The GT and Hunter have options. ALL use water cooling to get the best out of the turbo.

You're asking to try to do a lot with one turbocharger on 91 octane. So you either need to go a little larger and allow for less responsiveness, or change your budget.

 

And theres the plug smh

 

Over the past couple of days I have decided to get a block built. So the guy at the machine shop asked me what block did I want to build, I was so stuck on the b16a2 block upto that point I had not thought of anything else. I asked him what would be best for 350 hp goal daily driven low comp. piston build. He told me to go with a gsr block. I have a day or tw to let him know what I what to to . Now I need I put on the block choice and why.

 

The GSR is the way to go, bigger is better especially when the lesser of the two is a sad 1.6 liters.

 

Thanks for the input.

My options are b16a2, b18b, b18c1
Also what is this gsr with Ls crank stroker all about. I thought strokers were only good for high comp. na motors.
And will be running si tranny with Ls 5th gear

 

b18c1 is usually a bit more expensive than a 16a2 or 18b1,i would get a gsr if funds allow definitely

 

Its very simple, actually. The concept revolves around the idea of having all the benefits of an LS/VTEC setup, which was made for more torque (LS/B18A/B) with the cylinder head efficiency of a VTEC head, without all of the complications associated with LS/VTEC preparation.

Whether you're NA or using Forced Induction, the advantages are rather self-evident.

The GS-R block and B18B1 block have almost the same deck height for one another. For those that want to have the additional torque advantage of additional 1.8mm in stroke (which could increase it by as much as 60ft/lbs) as opposed to just increasing bore alone, and still not worry about specialty equipment and custom bearings to work with the engine block, Using an LS/B20 crankshaft and accompanying rods is a great solution.

When one goes the LS/VTEC route, (even though the process has been made simpler over the years), one still must tap the VTEC head for oil, possibly run a sandwich plate, change head gaskets, adjust timing with cam gears, etc...

With the "GLSR" combination, that is all eliminated. You can use all the GS-R parts for the block, and (depending upon the piston used), may only have to use a $12 oil squirter block-kit to keep the pistons from hitting the cylinder walls or other issues that could potentially cause problems.

Its worked and been performed many times

 

What is the real advantage of the gsr over the others. And I'm talking about just the block because I will be using the bi6 head built with sk2 cams vales, valve springs, and retainers.
Does the gsr have more torque over the Ls or does it just have the ability to rev higher.

 

So I can go gsr block, scat Ls rods, Ls crank, weiscos gsr pistons?

 

Everyone, please start looking at the differences in these engines and their specifications. This is very easily spelled out.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_B_engine

Some see advantages for the GS-R as the ability to cross crankshafts to change displacement by way of stroke, have better midrange torque without needing as much rpm to accomplish the same thing, etc.

Others don't see an automatic advantage. Simply "revving higher" doesn't necessarily mean you just make more power with the snap off your fingers.

 

Getting my reading glasses out lol

 

Hey Shodan how about a gt3251b like you recommended for me? With my setup it gives me great response on a b16a and im putting down just over 300 whp with around 11 psi of boost.

 

That or something like a GT3000R or Hunter, sure.. those are always fun to work with on B16s.. .. All depends upon budget and use, like anything else.

 

Sure, as long as you get an oil squirter blocking kit from Golden Eagle, because the wiseco piston skirts tend to be rather long.

 

Also in regards to which engine to choose in my personal experience its all really preference. I chose the b16a because I like an engine that revs to the moon. That being said a gsr is typically more popular because of higher torque numbers but its all very similar in the end. 200 cc extra wont get you that much more power in the grand scheme of things. If you want a engine that will light up tires easier go for the glsr for the longest stroke/highest torque.

 

I still haven't read up on the gsr yet. Do you happen to know of the top of your head if I only need a ls crank and ls rods to go with the gsr.

 

Logically you would need the LS crank and LS sized rods yes, because I believe they are shorter than the gsr rods to make up for the longer throw of the crank. Everything else should be the same since the deck heights are pretty well the same.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. Now I guess I need to look into the oil Squirter and weisco piston possible issue.