correct.

 

An EGT gauge is a good thing, not for tuning but rather for protection. When you see after a few hard runs your EGT is shooting up more than what is the norm for you, then you can make preventative measures to stop any damage that might happen. Variables or not your EGT should not vary that much, variables in the atmosphere will not account for a 100 celius increase. Just my 2 cents

 

Yeah well I can't get my EGTs above 680C right now. No matter what I do. 680 is at about 85mph on the freeway at steady state. All other conditions the EGT is lower.

Then again I haven't tried that hard

 

No, just buy a 1/8" NPT plug from the plumbing section of your local hardware store.

 

i feel the same way now.

 

whats your a/f ratio?

 

14.7:1

 

definantly some good info here. i haven't gotten an EGT gauge yet and after reading this i was actually thinking about getting one when i get the $$ down the road. but i'll most likely just pick one up as soon as i can just so i can use it as a side reference to keep an eye on things.

BTW, what brand EGT gauge/probe set is recommended by most?
something other than the Autometer that is, but not too expensive?

 

How do you calculate your A/F ratio? Also who makes a widebanc A/F ratio gauge?

 

awe cripes.
please dont turn this into an egt sucks bandwagon people cause they surely dont! very good references while tuning/driving!!!!!

 

I like the DEFI EGT, if your looking for one.

 

I saw in an issue of Turbo magazine that showed an A/F guage made by Link. It says that it can be calibrated for wide or narrow band operation.

 

will need later, thanks

 

If you are saying that EGT's can variey on the timing, cam timing and other things. Then tell me this. Why do DSMer's tune with the EGT. I mean I would think that the EGT would be more accurate than a cheap A/F ratio meter. Wideband o2 sensors are just wayyyyyyyyyyy to much money and what happens if you blow it out. I don't think most of us have to the money to buy another one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crxlsturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are saying that EGT's can variey on the timing, cam timing and other things. Then tell me this. Why do DSMer's tune with the EGT. I mean I would think that the EGT would be more accurate than a cheap A/F ratio meter. Wideband o2 sensors are just wayyyyyyyyyyy to much money and what happens if you blow it out. I don't think most of us have to the money to buy another one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

which is why you visit a dyno facility that has a wideband, like mine. Hell that's half the reason I get customers in the first place! DSM's have retardedly sensative knock sensors, that actually like to be tuned very rich, and without much timing. They will start pulling timing if much knock is heard. DSM people have always been a bit weird, and a bit behind the Hondas

 

veey well put Vapor.. Just wish there were more Turbo tuners like you over here in Northern California rather than driving 5 freaking hours down to Southern California..

 

i must just be plain old running hot then.

when crusin on the freeway for long distance 80+ miles, my EGT goes between 1000-1150 depending on if im going 4000rpm or 5000 rpms.

the car has 9.8:1 compression JE pistons + rods + blockguard and a JRSC @ 10psi, but it also has a C&R radiator with just 1 fan though. i know the JRSC make it hot under there and i really thinka hondata intake gasket would work wonders on it. i dont know though, im worried about driving it far from home, i dont want it to get to hot and melt something.

i dont know my AFR though, as i havent been on the dyno yet. hondata is coming and ill get it checked out then. i just hate to be worried about it all the time, as i live 120 miles away from home when im at school.

 

I dont think some of you understand the point of the original post..

If you retard the timing the EGT will go up for the simple fact that you have started the fire in the combustiuon chamber later.. if you start the fire too late the flame will actually burn during the exhaust stroke which will cause the EGT probe to see the incresed heat.. The exact opposite happens when you advance the timing at the same AFR.

I like having the EGT in the car for safety during extended boosting..

Ever hear the rules.... "dont boost for more than 15 seconds" "dont boost in 5th gear"

The reason for this is because of the heat that builds up in the ENTIRE engine and turbo system. The heat will continue to build up until you stop boosting, or you burn up the engine.

I have personally taken my car to 7500rpms in 5th gear on an LS transmission.. I stopped watching the tach in 4th gear and focused on the EGT, I watched the gauge climb and let off when I reached 1350F right after the turbo. This is what I felt was the EGT limit for my car set up and tune. After that run I stopped and checked the plugs.. they looked very nice, though they showed minor signs of heat. The engine was fine. The car was tuned with a conservative timing map and really rich at about 11.5 :1 AFR.

There are many factors that will change the EGTs, you need to spend some time on the dyno with a wideband and take notes of what happens with different AFRs and timing, and see what EGTs you should expect. It would also be very smart to talk to a tuner with experience tuning with EGTs.


jason

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KC GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After reading that article I feel that spending $160 for an EGT gauge is a complete waste of money for me. But my mani is already tapped for one. &lt;IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emdgust.gif" BORDER="0"&gt; All I want to be able to do is make sure that my A/F ratio is where it should be. If my EGTs are going to change due to an infinite amount of variables that tells me absolutely nothing. I need something that will help me be able to properly tune my VAFC to rich or lean out my fuel mixture (dont have an A/F gauge) and it sounds to me like spending $160 for an EGT gauge isn't the answer. </TD></TR></TABLE>

dude man, unless you decide to travel to a mountain and back everyday or to a different region of the country, all those factors will not change enough to make a difference in EGT's, therefore $160 is NOT a waste of money as you state. What is a waste of money are the narrow band led A/f gauges.

Consistently,
i see approximately 740 degrees C under full boost
720-730 at 75 mph, 5th gear
anywhere from 420-600 in the city at 40-50 mph
360-380 at idle

any large deviation from those numbers can warn me of lean conditions

this is on a stock LS with slightly altered timing and at 10 psi of boost

 

Wideband systems don't last

I dont think this is a EGT sucks thread.
It is good to have EGT.

Once your wideband takes a dump, you should have a good idea where your wideband readout was according to your EGT. You can use the EGT for backup.

 

interesting info.

 

I use the EGT gauge as a reference only. I dont even glance at it while tuning a car on the dyno. The air/fuel readings from the wideband, and the timing changes in the timing maps compared to the dyno graph tell me what I need to know. I use the EGT gauge after tuning is done in higher gears. Its important to know the temperatures in the combustion chamber at higher loads, this is where excessive wear and potential failure of components can occur. The EGT is a reference gauge, not a tuning gauge.

 

cool

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by st00pid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ever hear the rules.... "dont boost for more than 15 seconds" "dont boost in 5th gear"
</TD></TR></TABLE>

those are rules? those are the whole reasons why im boosting!

 

You can just buy a sensor and use S300 to datalog your EGT's and see what you EGT's are doing in reference to A/F, Timing, Load and so on. Makes it alot easier to see it graphed out than to watch it while driving.