wasup yall, I need ur opinnion on this, let me know what Yall THINK.! here~s the link.. and here's my Set Up its not one of the best but it's all good... I personally think its safe cuz I know alot of people boosting Gsr and B16 and PLS. correct me if i'm wrong but the compression on a gsr is around 10's right ? wrong?? so me with that gasket should be fine..

FULLY BUILT

95 D16z6 (using crx si manifold and Distributor)
Eagle Rods
hihg compression pistons
GREDDY head gasket (2.0mm THICK)
Garret T3 Turbo
450 DSM injectors
Chipped ECU (check the link)
B&M fuel pressure Regulator 45psi
Intercooler
forgot to mention this.. its Bored to .20 (sorry, now u KnoW)

The COMPRESSION used to be 10:5 (i know its high for Turbo) but I added a Thick headgasket so it should LOWER the COMPRESSIOn. (NO CLUE TO WHAT BUT IF YOU HAVE AN IDEA I would be more than happy to hear it.. oh and I checked that compression calculator and still no clue.. so let me know!! THANKS..

I just got this CHIP i'm about to install it! let me know what you guys think!! check out the LINK
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...09864

by the way i'm only boosting 4psi. about to raise the boost to 6psi i should be safe with 6 right!??


Modified by crxturboh22 at 5:50 AM 1/16/2004


Modified by crxturboh22 at 7:17 AM 1/16/2004

 

I would take that chip, and file it in the rectangle bin. Get some real fuel management. I would never trust something like that from ebay with my engine.
First of you don't really know what's on that chip.
Second you don't know if the tuning will stick being sent through the mail.

Unless you're sleeved you're not fully built.

Actually you would have been fine with that compression on only 6psi, but I think you'll have about 9.8:1. Do some searches, or ask here whatever you need.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zer0s0n5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Unless you're sleeved you're not fully built.

.</TD></TR></TABLE>

another common missconception.


Rob

 

SORRY YALL I forgot to mention i'm Bored to .20 over! and have a Bov.

is there anyway i can find out what's in the chip.. without taking it for a run??


by the way (ZER0s0n5) thanks for the help..

 

So you think the COMPRESSIOn is 9:8 hunh! well I heard something around there. but I dunno I think it should be lower cuz the gasket is 2.0mm THICK. and I have no clue how much that would lower the compression to.. But i dunno.. thats what I think u know!!

 

Umm, what are you talking about rjardy? stock sleeves are kinda weak. Fully built means "fully built" the whole nine yards.

Anyways, generally a 3mm gasket is about one point of compression. 2mm is 2/3rds of that.

 

stock sleeves have been proven to support 500+ whp
tune it..


Rob

 

Youre gonna need a chip burner to read the chip.
If you get a burner you may as well download one of the free OBD1 ROM Editors out there (Uberdata, and Crome are the big ones).
With the burner + the editor you can write your own chip.

 

First off that chip is for a PM6 ecu which is ODB0. Second, DONT PAY THE GUY.

That BIN file is free and has been fully developed by the efforts of PGMFI.org

That guy is NOT supposed to be selling these free chips and the originator of this code has been notified.

Please do not pay this person...if you still want to run this chip (which is perfectly fine fuel management, 100x safer than FMU and 10x safer than 'the hack') contact me at cwharris@optonline.net and visit http://www.pgmfi.org.

If you buy & use that chip, you have no idea what setup it was tuned for and could blow up your ****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjardy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock sleeves have been proven to support 500+ whp
tune it..


Rob</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, it's know to support 500+whp but the question is for how long?
Yeah you can get 500whp but how long will that last you while boosting everyday?

 

yeah I got ur point man.. Fully built.. well then i~m Partially Built hehe!! its cool. but what u think:?? my motor should support at least 12 psi right... with the Right fuel and everything... ??
thanks

 

12 psi with ease.
and about the 500 whp for how ling question.....
ask jinxproof.....

Rob

 

How are you going to control vtec with a PM6? Just curious.
-PHiZ

 

Please don't but that chip.
I, calvin are from PGMFI.org. I do a lot with ecu. Also programming(assemble) chips. I'm busy with some nos code. That will be the same a Hond*t*.
Calvin

 

your not supposed to have HIGH compression, your supposed to have LOW compression

 

I know I need LOW compression for turbo but I changed my mind i was going all motor but once you go turbo u never go back heheh so thats why i bought the greddy headgasket to lower the compression oh and im using a MSD rpm switch to control the Vtec... till i get a piggy back! I had a fields vtec controller but i sold it... .. oh well.. oh and yo "KELVIN" wasup with the chip. i need somethin to controll my injectors and timing since u said not to use the chip.. I emailed you I think it was u.. that said dont use it and send me an email.. so i wrote u . let me know wasp. or else i'm gonna use that one cuz i have no choice and no $$$ hehe.!.. Thanks yall for all the help ..
whats the deal with blue smoking coming out.. once in a while some blue smoke comes out for like 2 seconds then it stops... last night did that... i dunno why!! oh and if the valves are knocking will it do that once in a while.. cuz sometimes i get some noise coming from the head.. like metal hitting metal.. tlank.. lol.. sometimes it does that.. I already drove 950 miles.. 50 more i'm raising the boost to 6.. cuz by then the chip should be here! next week.. KEEP POSTING....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suleman963 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your not supposed to have HIGH compression, your supposed to have LOW compression</TD></TR></TABLE>
there is so much missinformation floating around here on honda-tech anymore...

where do you guys hear this crap? Low compression is not a must. More or less a bandaid for poor tuning.


Rob

 

the reason for Low compression is so that you can run higher boost without having to change you fuel type like running a real high *** octane.

 

Didn't know that!!! thats cool!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnsona &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the reason for Low compression is so that you can run higher boost without having to change you fuel type like running a real high *** octane.</TD></TR></TABLE>

like I said , a band-aid, a way around doing it correctly.
I dont think anyone in this thread is going to run upward of 25 psi. My 10.2:1 comp LS motor runs strong on 12 psi, TUNED.


Rob

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda-tech archives &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
One main concern in power production with forced induction is effective compression. Effective compression is the sum of the motors static compression, plus the additional compression added by the forced induction tool. A B18C1 (also B16A) motor will have a higher effective compression than a B18B motor will, on the same boost...therefore, pound for pound, it will make more power.

The next argument that people usually bring up is that a higher compression is bad for turbocharging. Well, if you understand the concept of effective compression, then you should understand that this statement is entirely incorrect. A higher compression engine makes more power in NA form. So, why do you turbo guys think that a lower compression turbo motor makes more power? Does that make any sense when you really think about it? A turbocharger is a power adder? So why deplete power that was there to begin with? The answer I usually get to that is "So I can run more boost!" Well, sorry to rain on your parade, but more boost does not always equal more power. Check out this mathematical example of effective compression:

A motor with a 10.0:1 static CR boosting 10psi
10psi/14.7psi = .68
.68 + 1 = 1.68
1.68 x 10 = 16.8 effective CR

A motor with an 8.5:1 static CR boosting 10psi
10psi/14.7psi = .68
.68 + 1 = 1.68
1.68 x 8.5 = 14.28 effective CR

Now tell me who is going to make more power? The higher CR motor, or the lower CR motor?

So, maybe add more boost to the lower CR motor, right? Wrong...

A motor with an 8.5:1 static CR boosting 13psi
13psi/14.7psi = .88
.88 + 1 = 1.88
1.88 x 8.5 = 15.98 effective CR

Now you see, even adding 3psi of boost, still does not equal the effective CR of the higher compression, lower boost motor.

A lot of people like to lower their motors compression when they build their motor. I used to think it was a good idea before I understood about tuning, and the positive aspects of compression. In the mathematical representation below, I will show you how a low compression motor must boost more to equal the output of a higher compression, lower boost motor:

Motor: stock B16A2 boosting 7psi.
Static Compression Ratio: 10.4:1

((boost psi / 14.7) + 1) x motor compression = effective compression

Stock motor (10.4:1 CR) on 7psi:
7psi/14.7psi = .47
.47 + 1 = 1.47
1.47 x 10.4 = 15.288 effective CR

Built motor (9.0:1 CR) on 7psi:
7psi/14.7psi = .47
.47 + 1 = 1.47
1.47 x 9 = 13.23 effective CR

You will lose 2.058 points from your effective compression ratio, this translates to a significant power loss.

In order to gain back that power, you have to do this:

Built motor (9.0:1 CR) on 10.5psi:
10.5psi/14.7psi = .71
.71 + 1 = 1.71
1.71 x 9 = 15.39 effective CR

Add 3.5psi to what you were boosting before, and you should be able to make around the same power as before, granted you haven't done any other kinds of modifications port/polish, cams, etc...

As you can see, considering all things stay equal (bore/stroke/cylinder head/etc...), you must add 3.5psi to make the motors perform similarly. You just spent about $2,500 to build your bottom end, and make your car slow.

By now we all should understand the positive aspects of compression, and how when teamed with the faster spoolng turbo, more efficient output, better flowing B-series VTEC cylinder heads, better low end spool time, stock oil squirters, higher redline, etc...you should see that turbocharging B-series VTEC motors is clearly not dangerous, and highly adviseable. I love a good turbo B16A.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Never thought that this could happen, but I think i'm in Love again!!!!!.. LOL ehhe j/k..

I kind got lost somewhere in the middle where i though i was getting the compression thing but .. I found my way back heeh!! GOOD 1... that was a great explanation!!

 

thanks for posting that 1.8T_EG

Rob

 

I replied to your email CRX...

Its not as easy as buying a chip and putting it in a PM6 ecu, I hope you realize that, and you have NO idea what these fuel and ignition values are setup for....you could run really rich and loose power and foul up O2 sensor or your CAT

...or even worse blow your motor because its running to lean

I suggest anyone that goes this route check out PGMFI.org and read a learn about the efforts that have gone on over there

 

Or go with someone with a good reputation that will explain what the chip is setup for. I have several customers running my software on cars, I have never physically seen.

I know several ppl with great tuning reputations that do business on ebay, I also know there are an bunch of shady dudes. It comes down to if you trust the seller... Do they come off as literate, knowledgable, helpful? And then make a decision from there. Or bypass ebay entirely and use sites like this one. Not everyone is qualified to tune their own car, and many people lack the equipment to do so, there is nothing wrong with retaining someone's services to get the tuning done properly.
-PHiZ