Hey HT

Im going to be doing a rebuild of my GSR over the next year or so, im in school so money is tight and time is limited, so im hoping to have all this ready to go when im done with school in the next year and a half. Anyways I am making a parts/build list and was wondering if anyone has any input on things. I am set on pretty much all my parts except the crank. Will i need/is it worth running an eagle forged crank? I have a mint GSR crank in my garage right now i can build with. I am looking to run 500whp to keep it streetable but still fast enough to attain 10's, but if i want i know i will have room to grow.
So like i say i want some opinions on the eagle crank vs a stock one.

Heres a small look at how im going to build the block....
GSR block
GE sleeves bored to 83mm
CP 9.0:1 pistons
Manley H beam rods w/ ARP bolts (no brainer)
Crank: Stock or eagle?
I dont see the need to run a block guard, the motor is sleeved and it just increases heat. I will be running the SC6262 turbo w/ a topmount and should be able to make 500-520whp on 20psi. I will be building the head as well.

Thanks for the input
thanks for the input

 

OEM gsr crank ftw. eagle cranks are garbage stock crank can handle 1000+hp

 

x2 on the Eagle cranks being hit-or-miss.

You can't beat the reliability of OEM.

 

Alright nice thats what i was thinking. How about you input on a block guard? i think they are kinda a waste, any feedback on that?

 

I don't like anything that restricts coolant flow to the hottest portion of the bore.

- Derek

 

block guard is waste of money and creates hotspots around top of cylinder dont bother just get a good tuner and 450-500 is completely doable on stock sleeves

 

OK you just confirmed my thinking on the block guard.

my block is already bored out some.... and i would have to run 82mm forged pistons. would it still be safe to run stock sleeves?

 

I wouldn't be worried about 82mm...

 

stick with a stock gsr crank

 

Alright thanks guys, using the GSR crank hands down.
NOW i need some more input, should i sleeve my block if i plan on only running 500whp or so? it will be bored to 82mm if i decide not to sleeve it on stock sleeves.

 

If you want it to be as reliable you should sleeve it. 500whp is very doable on stock sleeves but on an 82mm stock sleeve bore it seams like thats pushing it.

 

thats the same thing im thinking, but its 1k to have a block sleeved, not a cheap decision. I have mine bored to 81.5mm right now but a have a very slight score on one wall from a piston meltdown. i think a machine shop hone might take it out, my ball hone came close.

 

just buy another 81mm block. bare block with main caps usually goes for 50-100 bucks where I come from.

 

if my block is savable i dont think the .5mm is going to make or break me. its the full 1mm im thinking is the killer.

 

It's cheaper to do it right than do it twice. Sleeve it.

 

take the block to a machien shop and see if that light scratch will come out with a hone job if not then get another block and keep yours as a spare

 

x2

I did it right and sleeved my block. I'm glad I did.

 

for the money you spend taking it to a shop.. and having to maybe buy a new block. just sleeve yours if its not savable.. you save time and money.. and plus when your sleeved your set.. with the right internals you can make more and more power when ever you want.

 

could always pick up a block from golden eagle (b18) that is sleeved... pretty sure they have them for about a grand, all ready to go.. might be worth a look...

 

sorry to thread jack but i have the same question except i will be suppercharged under 300hp would i need to sleave the block? with 82mm 9:5 pistons

 

The stock sleeves with that bore should handle that amount of power just fine. I think it would be a waste of money to sleeve a block for that power level.

 

solid-steel sleeves dont keep the pistons any cooler than a stock aluminum/steel sleeve with a properly designed block guard, realistically.

we've used the golden eagle block guard on many D series, and had NO problems. all high-ish HP street/drag/road-course turbo Ds.

 

I love how everyone trashes block gaurds. I had 75,000km on my stock block with a block gaurd and i beat the **** out of it and there was no pressure points from excess heat or cylinder walmovent from the block gaurd. My las motor was built on stock sleeves and fully built head and the sleave cracked, if i had a block gaurd my pistons,rods,rev valves,fully ported head would of survived. Oh well my .02 cents

There are plenty of stock sleeve motors making big power. Its just the day it detonates a few times and its done.

 

uhhhh.....sleeving a motor isnt done to keep the pistons cool...it doesnt prevent detonation.

 

i dont see any reason to need a block guard, i was just throwing that out there. sleeved motors arent meant to be cooler, just hold boost. thats what i was asking about.