I'm mocking up my oil drain line, and I'm not sure if this will work.

The car has a Moroso oil pan, but the problem is the fitting is on the other side.

This is where the Moroso pan's fitting is placed from Moroso:



So, this is where the drain is on the turbo, and how the line will have to lie:







Insight and opinions please.

 

Go-auto kit? From what I've read that looks right. You don't want the oil sit in line and you want the plug high enough to be above the oil level so it does back up. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. I've just received a kit from G-A so Id like to see some input too.

 

I'd probably put some DEI fire sleeve or some **** on there. How close the the DP is it at the closest point? Maybe it's not as bad as the pics look. Looks like it's touching though.

 

Its definitely touching. I would weld my own fitting on the moroso pan so it stays on the left side of the pan

 

Could you go around the front of the down pipe? Or is there a negative to routing it that way?

 

Yes, it is a GA kit.

It is touching, but I feel there is no other option if I choose to retain the Moroso pan.

I would rather weld the bung on another pan than modify the Moroso piece.

I'm unsure. Honestly, I'm new to FI. I've done a bit of research and hate asking questions, but this one had to be asked.

 

A) DEI heat shielding SHOULD be more than enough. They've poured liquid metal on that **** before.

B) If you move the bung I'd just weld it to a stock pan like you said. You can then resell the Moroso.


I'd probably have a bung welded on a stock pan.

 

What header is that?

Thats a horrible design

 

It's a 5 bolt downpipe with integrated dumptube from Go-Autoworks.

 

I would try taking the 45 off the turbo and putting a straight fitting there then running the drain in front of the downpipe as long as that fits in the car.

 

Hate to say it, but I think you're going to have to modify that downpipe. It doesn't look like there's enough room to turn a 90 back into the pan because the line is so close to the block. Routing the long way around the downpipe may cause a return blockage. So you're left with moving the DP.

 

Modifying the downpipe is out of the question.

 

Go out and around (towards the front of the car) the down pipe and straight into the pan near where you are holding the fitting. Use one 45° fitting coming off the turbo and either a straight or a 45° if need be going into the pan. That really is a shitty design to begin with though.

 

I used an OEM pan and had a -10 an bung welded in a better place.

Thanks everyone for their input.

 

MUCH better idea than modifying the ******* downpipe. I think people think everybody's rich.

Pot a pic of the new setup for ***** and giggles? I'm bored at work LOL.

 

2 welds with a differnet degree pie cut is not hard to do or exspensive

How much space is on the left side of the pan with the windage tray behind it?

 

I'll take some more/better pics later this evening.

 

If your going to weld one keep it as high as possible in-between the pan bolts. Oil sits close to the top, its best to have no oil in the line at all! Take a look as this post, I would put the fitting right below the turbo.
https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...-line-3225790/
I hate oil getting in my charge pipes. good luck

 

Update:





Dropped the pan and fitting off with the guy at my machine shop. Welds look great, super stoked. Got home, put it on.......and it doesn't work....lol.

The bung needs to go about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch towards the left. Totally my fault for marking the wrong spot. Regardless, I have another pan, and I'm going to use a different fitting.

Thanks for the input and links so far, much appreciated.

 

Unless it is an optical illusionin the pictures... Why didn't you just do what I said to do? On that short of a return line you do NOT want to use a 90° fitting. Some people have to learn the hard way I guess... Good luck!?

(Actually, welds don't look good. Looks like hole was made too big or they got it way too hot and started melting the pan. The inside cuts are pretty rough too, definitely wouldn't expect that out of a machine shop.)

 

If it goes around the downpipe, the line will start to sag, which would not allow proper draining.

 

No, it shouldn't sag if done correctly. I have done longer lines than that in the past or I wouldn't have even recommended it in the first place.

It's all good mang, all you can do is try the tight 90° like you want and see what happens. Some of us have been doing this for a little while is all I was getting at - been there, done that kind of thing. Good Luck!

 

I'm not going the 90 degree route either.

I appreciate the input.

 

This is if the hose comes in front of the DP:



This small battery stuck to the oilpan is where the Moroso pan's fitting is located:

 

yeah in front of the dp is kinda dumb. Thats why I hate driver side exit manifolds.

This going in the white or green one?