Well im not sure if i posted this in the right secition, but i know you turbo/ force induction guys mess aruond alot with earls and all those stainless fitings. I was wondering if anyone knows any comp.s like earls that makes some sort of easy fitting to attach to our fuel hardlines so stainless lines can be run from there.

 

EARLs compression hardline fitting is what i saw on a site that someone suggested but i could not find any info on this fitting. Anyone have any suggestions or links??

 

http://www.stealthmodeperforma...shtml

steatlthmode

 

O no, im not using stock fuel filter any more. Im running a custom inline fuel filter along wtih some lines coming from the hardlines which i chopped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Matador &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">O no, im not using stock fuel filter any more. Im running a custom inline fuel filter along wtih some lines coming from the hardlines which i chopped. </TD></TR></TABLE>

it sounds like your pretty serious into your fuel line, why not just run -an to your tank this way you have a.) larger fuel lines if you opt for then b.) you have new line this way you dont have to mess around with rusty lines.

this is ***-u-me-ing that you need more fuel or that you have an old *** car like me (88 crx) where the lines start to **** out

 

LOL expletive that. Too much loot and **** involved in that. IM doing a k swap thats hwy i need this. The way im doing my fuel setup was with custom fuel filter and lines and ****.

 

To connect a hard line to a -AN line, you need a tube nut and tube sleeve. What size you need is dependant on the size of the line, and unfortunately summit racing and others only advertise the -AN size.

Let me know the OD of the hard line you have and I can figure out which size you need based on spare tube sleeves I have.

I sold some of these on Ebay a little while ago. There are pictures on the auction explaining what they look like and how they are installed:

LINK



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The -4AN size is to connect to 1/4" OD hard line. [...] -6AN to 3/8" [and] -3AN to 3/16".</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I did the procedure you hav posted. Its good, but the return for some reason wasnt coming out right. The flare i kept doing wasnt good. Now the hardline is too short and i dont have enough room to use my flair tool. I read somewhere that earls made some easy hard line fitting called "EARLs compression hardline fitting " but i couldnt find it anywhere. The guy who said it on k20a.org said there was no need to flair or nothing. I was wondering if anyone had any luck with that.

 

That is the downside. You have to be able to get a proper double flare. Don't know about the compression fittings.

 

And what exactly do u mean by double flair? Sorry to sound dumb. Like two in a row? I only would do one flair at the end of the hardline to keep that tube sleeve in its place. Edit: Looking at that pic you posted up.... Makes me want to go out and try this again!

 

Try Swagelok or Parker fittings.

 

U got a link bro?

 

Anyone wana know a cool trick?

Someone at the track (Really cool guy with a really fast car) told me this when I asked how he did his fuel lines.

Instead of going through the hassle of getting the right fittings, flaring tool, and getting the flare right...

He simply took the old filter and cut the nut off of it on the bottom where the hardline attaches. Then you get yourself a stainless fitting of your choice (I think i got a -6an to NPT adaptor) and cut off the non AN side after where you would put the wrench. Then weld them together and wallllahhh!!!

Mine works great to this day, no leaks, no hassle, low cost and looks great

I can snap a picture if anyone is REALLY interested!

 

Feel free.

 

u need to make a bubble flare. go to any brake shop that does brake lines. i work at sears auto so they just let me take the flaring tool home. perfect flares!

 

Earls also has the fittings that you actually do not need the flare. They actually tell you to cut it off. Here is a link to the page.

http://www.holley.com/products...06ERL

That will give you a male AN fitting on the output.

http://www.holley.com/products...06ERL

That will give you a female AN on the output.

Jason

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u need to make a bubble flare. go to any brake shop that does brake lines. i work at sears auto so they just let me take the flaring tool home. perfect flares!</TD></TR></TABLE>


A bubble flare? No.

Its a double flare.

And with the AN stuff, you need to flare it to a 37* <FONT SIZE="3">SINGLE</FONT> flare.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SFWD 1934 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Earls also has the fittings that you actually do not need the flare. They actually tell you to cut it off. Here is a link to the page.

http://www.holley.com/products...06ERL

That will give you a male AN fitting on the output.

http://www.holley.com/products...06ERL

That will give you a female AN on the output.

Jason</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wait on the link its still basicalyl saying you have to flare it out to make it lock tight to that flare it has already. right?

 

Look at this for some instructions on the Tube Mate style. Just a clean cut and deburr.

Look at page 23.

http://www.holley.com/data/Cat...).pdf

Jason

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SFWD 1934 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Earls also has the fittings that you actually do not need the flare. They actually tell you to cut it off. Here is a link to the page.

http://www.holley.com/products...06ERL

That will give you a male AN fitting on the output.

http://www.holley.com/products...06ERL

That will give you a female AN on the output.

Jason</TD></TR></TABLE>

i used a setup like this, the only problem with not flaring the tube, and using a crush seal sleeve is its meant for low pressures with a ceiling of 25psi. If using for fuel we all no this will not work, to flare the stock fuel line its a -5 tube nut and sleeve you need, along with a -5/-6 union which is a pretty odd size, took me 3 weeks to get, but works like a charm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtekthis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i used a setup like this, the only problem with not flaring the tube, and using a crush seal sleeve is its meant for low pressures with a ceiling of 25psi. If using for fuel we all no this will not work, to flare the stock fuel line its a -5 tube nut and sleeve you need, along with a -5/-6 union which is a pretty odd size, took me 3 weeks to get, but works like a charm </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea thats what i tried, with having to undo the whole setup and re flair like 3 times. I just had bad luck. Each time i had to cut the hardline a little farther down, now leaving me with no room to work with.

On another note
How much does the fuel out line flow?

 

Make sure that your flaring tool will give you 37 degree flare. If your flaring tool only makes 45 degree flare, then of source it won't seal with the 37 degree flare union.

stan

 

Yea i got the 37 degree tool.

 

u used a -5 tube nut and sleeve? and it wont seal? or ur using the flareless fitting?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtekthis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u used a -5 tube nut and sleeve? and it wont seal? or ur using the flareless fitting?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No with the return side its smaller, so i used a -4 tube nut and sleeve, and it still leaked. I think it was from my shitty flaring job, but i got it ghetto rigged up right now, there wasnt enough room anymore from having to cut the hardline from my expletive ups.