Desruction B18B Blown Up.
Finaly got the engine pulled and torn down.
Hears the setup
1995 Civic DX coupe
1995 B18B engine
Garrett T3 60/63 from a ford Turbo coupe
Cheap Log manifold
3" dp and 3" exhaust
DSM 450cc injectors
off brand intercooler
HKS Super BOV
2.5" charge piping
ARP headstuds
Cometic Headgasket
Delsol Vtec dual core radiator
Uberdata 1.7
Fuel Map


Timing Map




car was getting 30+mpg highway and 20+ intown. a/f was 12:1 in boost. timming was set conservative. Temp gauge never went above half on dash. Never ran in hot weather. was daily driven most of the summer in 2006 and 2007. ran a 13.1 @116mph with a 2.6 60ft
Made 220hp and 230tq @12psi at the slowmotion dyno day in 2006. At 4500rpm on the video you can hear the car get louder from the manifold cracking.

Car was running great. but the manifold cracked twice at the dynoday. you can see what RPM on the graph because the hp and tq drop. Tried rewelding the manifold on the car but it kept cracking between cyl 3-4 (came welded i added the T3 flange.) Owner ran the car that way with a small leak for summer of 2007. Has maybe 3,500 miles sense turbo setup. Usually ran at 8psi, the day of engine failure was running at 12psi but was fluctuating due to the crack. (10-12psi. not more than 12psi) car sat for about 3 weeks before day of engine failure. Owner says was driving home at normal speed out of boost and car started to smoke bad. this was after a few spirited runs (within 5 miles of his house) showing car to a friend. Imediatly turned car off, and waited till i arrived the next day. i checked compression and it was 120, 30, 20, 140 psi. knowing the engine was smoked we parked it until this weekend when i was able to tow it to my house and tear down the engine. Outisde air temp was probably 60-70f when failure accured.
Here are the results.



Piston 1


Piston 2



Piston 3


Cylinder 2

Cylinder 3

Pictures of the head. plugs are actually brown not white, the flash fashed them out.
cylinder 2

cylinder 3

cylinder 4

headgasket only visable "weekspot" but complete rings were left on head and block, and there is no sign of water or combustion blowby. ill need to check the head and sleeves for cracks this week. (again sorry the flash washed it out.)

Cylinders 1 and 4 are perfect.
Headgasket is good.
Tons of sludge in water jackets. about 3/4" deep. covered hole on drain plug. Car has sat for atleast 4 months.
Piston 4 was still intact. rods all look great. head was very very clean.
Cylinders 2 & 3 feel fine, but look scared. plugs were still a chocolate brown not white. never where at any time when car was running.
cracked ringlands indicated to much detionation. so either my tuning was off, or he had bad gas. just wandering what all that **** in the water jackets is from. and if anything besides the broken ringlands looks out of place. I can take any other pictures just ask.
thanks for your input. rebuild will be soon. looking into either getting it bored, or possibly getting new sleeves and going for a high hp build. will be staying ls non-vtec. more then likely eagle rods, cp pistons, t3/t4E turbo, spoolin prototype1, Spooling $300 intercooler, spooling 2.5"-3" dp, 650cc injectors, crower springs, retainers, and 402 cams.
if a moderator reads this could you fix my spelling mistake and change my title to destruction thanks.
Modified by Snail Tuning at 12:43 PM 3/4/2008
Hears the setup
1995 Civic DX coupe
1995 B18B engine
Garrett T3 60/63 from a ford Turbo coupe
Cheap Log manifold
3" dp and 3" exhaust
DSM 450cc injectors
off brand intercooler
HKS Super BOV
2.5" charge piping
ARP headstuds
Cometic Headgasket
Delsol Vtec dual core radiator
Uberdata 1.7
Fuel Map


Timing Map




car was getting 30+mpg highway and 20+ intown. a/f was 12:1 in boost. timming was set conservative. Temp gauge never went above half on dash. Never ran in hot weather. was daily driven most of the summer in 2006 and 2007. ran a 13.1 @116mph with a 2.6 60ft
Made 220hp and 230tq @12psi at the slowmotion dyno day in 2006. At 4500rpm on the video you can hear the car get louder from the manifold cracking.

Car was running great. but the manifold cracked twice at the dynoday. you can see what RPM on the graph because the hp and tq drop. Tried rewelding the manifold on the car but it kept cracking between cyl 3-4 (came welded i added the T3 flange.) Owner ran the car that way with a small leak for summer of 2007. Has maybe 3,500 miles sense turbo setup. Usually ran at 8psi, the day of engine failure was running at 12psi but was fluctuating due to the crack. (10-12psi. not more than 12psi) car sat for about 3 weeks before day of engine failure. Owner says was driving home at normal speed out of boost and car started to smoke bad. this was after a few spirited runs (within 5 miles of his house) showing car to a friend. Imediatly turned car off, and waited till i arrived the next day. i checked compression and it was 120, 30, 20, 140 psi. knowing the engine was smoked we parked it until this weekend when i was able to tow it to my house and tear down the engine. Outisde air temp was probably 60-70f when failure accured.
Here are the results.



Piston 1


Piston 2



Piston 3


Cylinder 2

Cylinder 3

Pictures of the head. plugs are actually brown not white, the flash fashed them out.
cylinder 2

cylinder 3

cylinder 4

headgasket only visable "weekspot" but complete rings were left on head and block, and there is no sign of water or combustion blowby. ill need to check the head and sleeves for cracks this week. (again sorry the flash washed it out.)

Cylinders 1 and 4 are perfect.
Headgasket is good.
Tons of sludge in water jackets. about 3/4" deep. covered hole on drain plug. Car has sat for atleast 4 months.
Piston 4 was still intact. rods all look great. head was very very clean.
Cylinders 2 & 3 feel fine, but look scared. plugs were still a chocolate brown not white. never where at any time when car was running.
cracked ringlands indicated to much detionation. so either my tuning was off, or he had bad gas. just wandering what all that **** in the water jackets is from. and if anything besides the broken ringlands looks out of place. I can take any other pictures just ask.
thanks for your input. rebuild will be soon. looking into either getting it bored, or possibly getting new sleeves and going for a high hp build. will be staying ls non-vtec. more then likely eagle rods, cp pistons, t3/t4E turbo, spoolin prototype1, Spooling $300 intercooler, spooling 2.5"-3" dp, 650cc injectors, crower springs, retainers, and 402 cams.
if a moderator reads this could you fix my spelling mistake and change my title to destruction thanks.
Modified by Snail Tuning at 12:43 PM 3/4/2008
Trending Topics
it was 12:1 a/f never any higher. some spots may have been around 11.8 or 11.9.
added pics of the maps.
could all that sludge be rust from my turbo? thats the only thing i could come up with.
added pics of the maps.
could all that sludge be rust from my turbo? thats the only thing i could come up with.
well i had read online and in a few books to keep timing at around 20deg at full boost. for under 15psi. so i did the uberdata step retard. 0-3psi no retard. 3-6psi 3degrees, 6-9psi 6deg, 9-15 10deg. then i bumped the 11.03 row down to 20deg on the graph. had read that this would be a safe timing level for my boost level, and was similar to others setups on the uberdata forum and on honda-tech. never ran on the dyno to pull peak tq or hp. left timing at what i was told was conservative, and tuned the a/f ratio to 12:1 across the boosted rpm ranges. ive done the same style of tuning on 2 other cars one b18b, and the other a d16z6, both have had no problems and are running strong. I wish i would have had an EGT probe for my wideband so i could have checked them. might have prevented this.
on a side note, the owner never put an air filter on the car.
on a side note, the owner never put an air filter on the car.
i ran a turbo ls off uberdata 1.7 for a good 15k miles. 10-12 psi 57 trim and a log manifold.
my 11 psi column ran between 17-19 degrees timing
my 10psi was 19-20.
air fuels were 11's. motor slowly lost compression but thats because it had 215k when i boosted it.
your tune looks fine. ive also run ls motors afr in the 13s accidentally and no problems.
i think you might have been lifting the head and letting some crap get into the cyl and contaminate the mixture in the cyl degrading the octane. also, did it sit for 3 months then boost on that gas without adding some new 93? if so i bet that had a part in it. were there any siigns of det. on the spark plugs?
my 11 psi column ran between 17-19 degrees timing
my 10psi was 19-20.
air fuels were 11's. motor slowly lost compression but thats because it had 215k when i boosted it.
your tune looks fine. ive also run ls motors afr in the 13s accidentally and no problems.
i think you might have been lifting the head and letting some crap get into the cyl and contaminate the mixture in the cyl degrading the octane. also, did it sit for 3 months then boost on that gas without adding some new 93? if so i bet that had a part in it. were there any siigns of det. on the spark plugs?
my old turbo setup ran 12.5 a/f and up to 24 degrees of timing up top with 14-15psi, it was a b16 with pr4 pistons
91 octane fuel 8.3:1 compression... i dont think 20 is too much at all, what type of fuel was in the tank?
91 octane fuel 8.3:1 compression... i dont think 20 is too much at all, what type of fuel was in the tank?
Here's what I see: You have some of you leanest spots being RIGHT where it needs to be the richest spots (a good fuel curve follows almost exactly on the torque curve). Your timing, also, is not the lowest at the peak of torque. Add these two things with some bad gas and boom! You'll never catch that on an AFR read except maybe a blip and the torque graph will smooth out the bad spot.
stock ringlands are weaksauce. i've seen them break so easily time and time again. they don't handle boost aswell as most people think. coolant+oil=mocha ****. no surprise there. looks like a cracked sleeve aswell (minor fracture)
agreed though with others, u have some misplaced lean spots.
agreed though with others, u have some misplaced lean spots.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tony1's theory of exhaust reversion caused by log manifolds kinda makes sense here. that could be what caused the detonation.</TD></TR></TABLE>
More like fact
, but he's not pushing a lot of HP nor PSI so I don't think that's the issue here. We'll never know for sure what happened could be something that no one has mentioned, could be a combination of everything put together over time, it doesn't matter. Just look the mistakes that "could" have made it do this and just don't repeat your mistakes
More like fact
, but he's not pushing a lot of HP nor PSI so I don't think that's the issue here. We'll never know for sure what happened could be something that no one has mentioned, could be a combination of everything put together over time, it doesn't matter. Just look the mistakes that "could" have made it do this and just don't repeat your mistakes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93supercoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe all that sludge caused the cylinder temps to be too high and create det?</TD></TR></TABLE>
lols, the sludge is the after effect to the issue.
definately looks like you had some fuel issues.
lols, the sludge is the after effect to the issue.
definately looks like you had some fuel issues.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's what I see: You have some of you leanest spots being RIGHT where it needs to be the richest spots (a good fuel curve follows almost exactly on the torque curve). Your timing, also, is not the lowest at the peak of torque. Add these two things with some bad gas and boom! You'll never catch that on an AFR read except maybe a blip and the torque graph will smooth out the bad spot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i added some new lines in the fuel and timing maps. am i correct in thinking those are the problem areas, and are my new lines a better flow? i think those areas were droped because the A/f ratio was around 11:1. im still trting to find my log charts. the next build i may run under 12:1 maybe 11.8 across the board for alittle more safty. distibutor was set at i belive 16deg btdc with the service check connector so timing advance was off. i did it according to the acura manual. and that was a while ago.
also stock DX fuel pump was used. next build will be getting a new one.
Anyone thing all that sludge could be from the turbo possibly being cracked or leaking internaly? just a thought, because that turbo we used sounded like it was on its last leg.
car always ran on 93 octain sensce engine swap and turbo install.
i added some new lines in the fuel and timing maps. am i correct in thinking those are the problem areas, and are my new lines a better flow? i think those areas were droped because the A/f ratio was around 11:1. im still trting to find my log charts. the next build i may run under 12:1 maybe 11.8 across the board for alittle more safty. distibutor was set at i belive 16deg btdc with the service check connector so timing advance was off. i did it according to the acura manual. and that was a while ago.
also stock DX fuel pump was used. next build will be getting a new one.
Anyone thing all that sludge could be from the turbo possibly being cracked or leaking internaly? just a thought, because that turbo we used sounded like it was on its last leg.
car always ran on 93 octain sensce engine swap and turbo install.



