Re: D16 complete build
 

The person that had the car before apparently could not afford a gasket for the throttle and used gasket maker and pretty much glued it on. So when hooked up the gasket will get saturated with coolant at the bottom. Since coolant flows through the bottom on the throttle body. It didn't leak into the manifold but it pissed me off, got an ls one as well but it didn't open with the blox manifold.

Re: D16 complete build
 

been working on the thing all day today, been weeks since I have had fun working on it. Anyway I had to finished putting on the turbo today. I have to say that it was stupid of me even trying to work with an oem turbo, this garrett is a dream to work with. Like I stated before it has oil on the hot side. The turbo was on a k20 and I did not see a restrictor on the fittings I got with it. A ball bearing turbo with the high pressure of a k20 will probably cause it to leak. So my hopes are that a .25 and small line will keep it together. If not, my turbonetic turbo is in great shape.

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...0-12115910.jpg

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...0-12123324.jpg

I turned the turbo, this is the best angle I can get, but it should be enough. working on cleaning up and wiring up my ecu now. All thats left is to bolt on the downpipe.

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...0-12134339.jpg

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...0-12134309.jpg

Re: D16 complete build
 

Well last night couldn't have gone better, the motor ran completely different, it even idled different. I don't know if the head gasket made the difference but it was soo smooth last night. My oil pressure wasn't even that high, it started at 80psi and it was pretty cold yesterday and idled 25-30 psi. It is at 80psi at around 4k rpm but thats better than before. The basemap is on the rich side, it idles at 11-12 and stays around there through the rpm range.

Before I was getting tons of smoke coming out the valve cover and on deceleration smoke came out through the charge pipes. Now its gone so maybe the ebay head gasket did suck. Anyway the turbo looks like its holding up. I tried to get a few datalogs but for some reason on this laptop neptune freezes every couple minutes and comes back. Doesn't happen on the desktop with w7, i will figure it out whats up with the LT later.

I didn't take any pics, just a video after the engine ran for a while, it was on the cellphone and unfortunately the noise cause the mic to distort and gave everything a high pitch, so it sounds pretty bad.

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...3-21-05-51.jpg

Re: D16 complete build
 

Looks to me like the idle is too high. Temp gauge shows normal, but your sitting around 1,000rpms. Might have a small vac leak. Just something to think about. Looks clean though, now go get it tuned so you can really enjoy the fruits of your labors.

Re: D16 complete build
 

;)^^^ the throttle body is leaking on the edges, thats also that pitched noise on the engine bay as the motor sucks air through. I also have neptune to idle at 1000 for first start up, I will turn it down when I start it up again.

When I have time to work on it again I am going to remove it and figure out whats wrong with the throttle

Re: D16 complete build
 

Well tommorow I am going to tune it.... myself. Have a few things to iron out in the morning then fix a tire and fill it with fresh gas. Looking to stay around 11 12 afr with an open downpipe. On Monday put the first 50 miles. Then put it away until I can bring it for a tune.

Re: D16 complete build
 

Glad its all comein togather for ya man!!!!=) idk to much about tunning but if i was tunning for the 1st time id be very carefull and keep it on the rich side a bit just incase of any errors. id also adjust everything slowly and very little at a time. I am sure if you look around or ask online you can get some good info ect... GOOD LUCK MAN KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!:beer:

Re: D16 complete build
 

;)

Its been soo long but I am glad I didn't give up. To keep it safe I been making changes mainly to the overall fuel trims. Thats what my tuner told me to do for break in, he saw the basemaps neptune creates and said that it is very conservative and should be safe enough to drive. Only going to do about 40-50 miles before I bring it in, so I should be fine.

Re: D16 complete build
 

WHY is this SUCH a pain in the ASS.

I get up all day all exited to finally drive the car, turn the key and a huge cloud of smoke, AGAIN. I knew it wasnt the turbo this time because this thing is in great shape. I thought it was fuel because the wideband showed 10. Long story short after hours of troubleshooting I find this

:cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry:
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...0-17164723.jpg


This is on cylinder four, I am on damage control right now. I am trying to fix this as soon as I can. I just hope that the head isn't damaged. I found out there was coolant in there after I stuck my hand inside the throttle body and came out all wet. After swearing for about 5 minutes I pulled it and I am not 100 percent sure where the coolant came from. i could have been from the waterjacket on the head, or maybe the iacv/throttle body (even though the omni TB doesn't flow coolant through)

Bought a new fel pro manifold gasket/TBgasket and some rtv sealant, got another IACV from a b18 . At this point I just hope the head isn't cracked.

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...0-17141600.jpg

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...0-17164758.jpg

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...0-17195849.jpg

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...0-17195826.jpg

\\
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...0-17195738.jpg

Re: D16 complete build
 

Couple of observations here...

Whats going on with the IACV? Why is it upside down? While I am pretty sure this isn't the source of the coolant, I have never seen one mounted like that before. Also, all IACV's are NOT the same. You shoud always try to match the IACV with the engine you are using. Find a Z6 one and stick with it. Just throwing parts at the car without knowing for sure why you are changing things will be more headache down the road.

Your using the wrong dang coolant. I know, I know... who cares right? Well, that green crap contains silicates which WILL destroy the water pump. I've seen it time and time again in this field. Get some Toyota/Honda/Silicate free coolant and prevent more problems down the road.

If the coolant is ONLY in the #4 chamber, then you have to remember there is a large coolant line that flows just to the passenger side of the #4 chamber that feeds the head. I would suspect that the intake manifold gasket failed for whatever reason and allowed the coolant to enter the #4 runner. Looking at that gasket, the fitment is VERY piss poor. You sure thats even the right gasket? I can see how it doesn't even begin to line up correctly with the intake manifold... unless I am seeing things. That gasket doesn't even correctly match the port of the head. I am 90% sure you had the wrong gasket on there.

You need to worry more about the condition of the #4 cylinder then you do the head. Remember, you cannot compress water, no matter how hard you try. Something has to give and its usually the rod or the cylinder sleeve itself. Get this thing back together paying close attention to that intake manifold gasket. Remove all the spark plugs and unplug the dist and then crank it over until you are sure you have done your best to get all that damn water out of there. I would do this ASAP before rust sets in as well! Once the car is back up and running a compression test will show if the rod is bent also. Since you have Eagle rods then I highly doubt you bent one. I would worry more about the condition of the cylinder sleeve itself.

Re: D16 complete build
 

Its an ebay gasket, its stuck on the cylinder head and having a hard time taking it all off.
trying to get this back on asap.

Re: D16 complete build
 

@Hybridek

I appreciate your insight on this, I put the stock iacv back on, I will also go to honda and buy their coolant for these engines. I compared the gasket to the felpro and they are indeed very different. The water jackets match up but thats about it.

Re: D16 complete build
 

man u need to get all that gasket off. its going to suck but take a razor to it untill its off. g.l man

Re: D16 complete build
 

:thud: I am so tired


You right @b16, I did sit there with a razor blade trying to get that damn thing off. I got most of it :crook:

After all that work it still smoked like a train. Pulled the throttle body and coolant inside again. That kinda pissed me off but I unplugged injector 4 pulled the plug and turned it on. It ran like crap of course but oil was shooting out not coolant. Now this could be maybe some left over crap, or maybe some getting past the rings. Checked the manifold again and oil in it this time so I figured I just turn it on and let it all burn off. May have leaking valve seals too. Anyway here are two vids.. turbo spins good

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...8-17-51-49.jpg

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...8-18-05-31.jpg

Re: D16 complete build
 

In these vids it doesn't look like its smoking like a trian at all. Perhaps you are over exaggerating? Thats not too terrible by any means. The smoke it clearly white when you showed it which is coolant. The "oil" that you said was shooting out of #4 is most likely water/carbon mixture from the coolant... Are you 100% sure its oil? That engine doesn't seem to run very bad at all for something thats pumping as much oil as you make it sound like..

Where the hell do you live? If you were local, I would come help you get this crap solved.

Re: D16 complete build
 

No not at all, these videos are not of the smoke I was getting before. I was clearly burning coolant before, it was on the pistons and as you saw on the head sitting on the valves. After I put every thing back together it started and no smoke but it began to smoke very badly. Powered it off checked the manifold and water was inside again. Pulled off the plugs took off the throttle body and cleaned some of it out. Even though when the manifold was off I had already done that. Started it and smoke, removed the pcv line from the manifold, pulled off plug 4 and unplugged the injector and started the car. It was shooting oil out number 4 and no smoke, when I shut the car off I checked it, it was all over the spark plug port. When I saw it was oil and the car will power back on easily every time (something it wasn't doing before) I figured to just power it and leave it on since oil is not going to damage the motor like dumping water and let it burn whatever is in there. The smoke you see here is not the same color smoke as before. Smoke was gray this time not puffy white and after it ran for about 10 minutes. The smoke started to clear up and thats when I started to take video.

The smoke you see in the video is nothing compared to what it was doing before.

The second video above, there is no smoke at all

Re: D16 complete build
 

Here are my plans for the morning. Its cold today and I wanted to start it cold to see if it was going to smoke. I took 3 videos, I went on this order rich/lean/rich, what I wanted to do is get it to smoke. I don't know much about tuning but I know 10 afr ain't normal, this is all in an attempt to show whats going on so I can figure out how to continue.

On the first video I hit the stop button by mistake but this is straight after start up with the same settings as last night. 525cc with an overall fuel trim of -5

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...rningstart.jpg



On this one I lean it out, I set it to a -25 fuel trim on the ecu and it wouldn't start because not enough fuel. Set is to a -20 fuel trim and it started with a little help and there is the smoke. The last 20 seconds of the video it really starts to come out. Afr only at 11, something up with those readings maybe the wideband is defective.


http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...eg/th_Lean.jpg


Third start I set it to -5 again and started it and on this one you can see the smoke clear out more and more and eventually goes away completely.

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...eg/th_rich.jpg

Yea

Re: D16 complete build
 

Compression test results= 130's across

You know what, I think I have a solution to this problem, I am going to disconnect the wideband and plug in the o2 sensor, set the basemap to no adjustments on the fuel trims & just turn up the music.

Re: D16 complete build
 

130 is pretty damn low. Did you disable the ignition and open the throttle body all the way when you were cranking? 9:1 shows 190ish on my gauge... Even with the idea that every gauge is different, etc, 130psi is pretty low. Do you have a block tester? The smoke should go away QUICKLY and never come back if everything is working correctly. Clearly its not, and you shouldn't be trying to tune a broken engine. You need to get it running correctly first, THEN worry about tuning it. If its not running right, and its clearly not, your just wasting time and trying to fix something in the tune that your not going to solve.

Re: D16 complete build
 

My compression is around the 7.4 so 130 is normal for this build. Other similar builds get around 145-150 but this motor is brand new and The rings are unseated the car hasn’t been driven.

My issue is that I am relying to much on the wideband that I am sure at this point is not getting accurate readings. There is no way the car is at 10.5 11 afr with barely enough fuel for it even to stay running. At -10 afr it stops smoking and happens to start & run fine. At -10 afr the car should be smoking like crazy and smell like pure fuel &fuel out the tail pipe... and it doesn’t, it’s the complete opposite. There is no fuel/coolant in the oil btw.

At this point using my plugs to diagnose issues, at 525/0 adjustments the plugs come out clean after a 15 minute idle with my afr at –10. At 11afr my plugs come out full of soot and burnt plugs. Like I said the gauge is defective because in order for the plugs to get that hot the air to fuel should be 20+.

Going to move forward after all of this, so set it to stock p28 map, 2psi boost cut and there is no smoke.

Re: D16 complete build
 

What a dman week anyway Going to try and get it inspected this week so I can finally take the damn thing out. Soon Massachusetts is going to be just like california with the damn inspections. While I was getting it ready I took off the injectors and rail to make sure coolant hasnt made its way up there. There is oil but no coolant & while it was off checked the pistons/plugs walls and all looks to be ok, putting aside the healthy dose of blow by the motor has.

Got rid of the wideband and put the stock FPR back on, I will put it back after break in

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...0-20110042.jpg

Re: D16 complete build
 

Haven't ben motivated to work on it, but went today to try. Starts fine, no more lean situation its pig rich now. Ecu always reads at WOT so its dumping fuel. MEh I will figure it out later.

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...0-29134822.jpg

Re: D16 complete build
 

Todays comp test

Cylinder #1 = 154
Cylinder #2 = 154
Cylinder #3 = 154
Cylinder #4 = 165

My latest smoking issue still the throttle body apparently, lets see how it works after it get repaired tomorrow.

Re: D16 complete build
 

Here is an update on my going nowhere project that nobody cares about.... project

Nothing has happend, I sorta gave up but I am not going to sell it. I will simply work on it whenever I feel like I can continue making progress instead of stressing myself out. When I started this project my mentality was to drop every minute of my time/effort on it and I am just burnt out. Ive put thousands of hours wrenching on this since I started it last december.

My breaking point was fixing the throttle body, then the car would start and instantly die. During the process of troubleshooting the starter fried and then on top of all of that I lost my ONLY keys on the bus. So yea
]

Re: D16 complete build
 

I don't think there is any reason to make a "pout post" about how no body cares. People are following your progress... I think the problem is you have too many hands in the pot, don't know WHAT to believe or listen to and you have compounded your issues by constantly throwing ideas/parts at the car without having a solid concept as to why you are doing it.

You have 9 million different issue. Focus on ONE issue at a time. Stay with that one issue until it is resolved, and move on. Before you go changing a million things, resealing this gasket, bypassing this hose, changing how this coolant line runs, etc... Why not resort to stock parts? Im not talking about the pistons/rods, whatever is inside... Perhaps you need to just release the idea that the aftermarket throttle body is where its at and put on a stock one. Get your setup as close to stock as possible. Once you have a system you know SHOULD work without any issues, start troubleshooting. As you resolve the other issues, work from there. Maybe you have bad parts? A bad ECU? Messed up wiring? Could be a million things. If you don't want to do any of this or face the fact that your going to have problems when you change everything time and time again and try to take shortcuts to save time and money, then perhaps you SHOULD retire the idea of building this car.