coolant & bb turbo?
I was told by Jeff Evans that running coolant to a gt series turbo has shown a large increase in the engine temp, and he told me not to run coolant to the turbo.
Between him & Geoff they saw that BB turbos not running coolant were capable of running on the dyno without turning the heat on!
So now with seeing everybody following the rule of the turbo manufacturer so to not void the warranty I am looking for a little guidance??? I don't plan on running this thing for long periods of time & really don't want over heating issues, so do I take advice from Jeff who's opinion is one of the few I respect, or do I follow the rules & run coolant; Which I don't want to do?
So basically I'm looking for anyone else who is doing the same thing & there feedback. Thanks.
Between him & Geoff they saw that BB turbos not running coolant were capable of running on the dyno without turning the heat on!
So now with seeing everybody following the rule of the turbo manufacturer so to not void the warranty I am looking for a little guidance??? I don't plan on running this thing for long periods of time & really don't want over heating issues, so do I take advice from Jeff who's opinion is one of the few I respect, or do I follow the rules & run coolant; Which I don't want to do?
So basically I'm looking for anyone else who is doing the same thing & there feedback. Thanks.
I got a BB turbo from Jeff that he was going to run and had the coolant pasages plugged on it , He has them pluged on there drag car but that is not a DD , I unpluged them and hooked them up just because I do drive the car alot. I did notice it warms up faster but nothing to overly hot so far from what I can tell. But I do know that some turbos have leeked and that is y people are blocking them off, but all Iam doing is giving you my take , but I would listen to Jeff and Geoff and then make your choice
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A2gt35r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told by Jeff Evans that running coolant to a gt series turbo has shown a large increase in the engine temp, and he told me not to run coolant to the turbo.
Between him & Geoff they saw that BB turbos not running coolant were capable of running on the dyno without turning the heat on!
So now with seeing everybody following the rule of the turbo manufacturer so to not void the warranty I am looking for a little guidance??? I don't plan on running this thing for long periods of time & really don't want over heating issues, so do I take advice from Jeff who's opinion is one of the few I respect, or do I follow the rules & run coolant; Which I don't want to do?
So basically I'm looking for anyone else who is doing the same thing & there feedback. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ehh, I don't like the Idea of higher temps...I just got all of my plumbing for my gt35r...damn.
Between him & Geoff they saw that BB turbos not running coolant were capable of running on the dyno without turning the heat on!
So now with seeing everybody following the rule of the turbo manufacturer so to not void the warranty I am looking for a little guidance??? I don't plan on running this thing for long periods of time & really don't want over heating issues, so do I take advice from Jeff who's opinion is one of the few I respect, or do I follow the rules & run coolant; Which I don't want to do?
So basically I'm looking for anyone else who is doing the same thing & there feedback. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ehh, I don't like the Idea of higher temps...I just got all of my plumbing for my gt35r...damn.
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I wonder if you could run some sort of aux cooler inline with the feed or return lines to get some better cooling. It would be very easy to put this on the engine facing side of the intercooler. would this work?
well, I guess I can speak for myself that the turbo hasn't raised the coolant outflow temps to the radiator any significant amount. Maybe a degree or two.
I have it plumbed in series with the TB heater and i'm reading right at the head exit to the radiator with a defi digital display.
I can't see so little coolant flowing through it at a decient flow rate causing much ot a jump when compared to the volume flowing out of the head and back to the radiator.
I have it plumbed in series with the TB heater and i'm reading right at the head exit to the radiator with a defi digital display.
I can't see so little coolant flowing through it at a decient flow rate causing much ot a jump when compared to the volume flowing out of the head and back to the radiator.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Running925 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is this thread refering to turbo's that require oil & coolant
i was slighly confused when i didn't recognize the turbo you guys are talkin about.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, all Garrett/Precision GTR series turbos used oil and water cooling.
i was slighly confused when i didn't recognize the turbo you guys are talkin about.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, all Garrett/Precision GTR series turbos used oil and water cooling.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boilermaker1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, I guess I can speak for myself that the turbo hasn't raised the coolant outflow temps to the radiator any significant amount. Maybe a degree or two.
I have it plumbed in series with the TB heater and i'm reading right at the head exit to the radiator with a defi digital display.
I can't see so little coolant flowing through it at a decient flow rate causing much ot a jump when compared to the volume flowing out of the head and back to the radiator. </TD></TR></TABLE>
How many PSI are you running? Looks like 6 in your sig. Maybey it becomes more noticed at much higher boost levels.
I have it plumbed in series with the TB heater and i'm reading right at the head exit to the radiator with a defi digital display.
I can't see so little coolant flowing through it at a decient flow rate causing much ot a jump when compared to the volume flowing out of the head and back to the radiator. </TD></TR></TABLE>
How many PSI are you running? Looks like 6 in your sig. Maybey it becomes more noticed at much higher boost levels.
I believe all Gerrett GT series (referred here as BB -ball bearing) turbos are made to run collant lines. Ive read where Geoff says that he is yet to see a water cooled GT show better results on the dyno or long term.
Im gettin a GT35R and i dont plan to run water lines. That oil cooler idea is pimp tho. Im a sucker for any trick stuff like that. So you would run it from the block->cooler->oil feed->turbo? I seriously dout it will make a tangable diff....but it certianly is trick.
*EDIT* i assume youd run the cooler before the feed to get cooler oil to the turbo, or after the return if its the engine temps youre worried about. Or both.
Im gettin a GT35R and i dont plan to run water lines. That oil cooler idea is pimp tho. Im a sucker for any trick stuff like that. So you would run it from the block->cooler->oil feed->turbo? I seriously dout it will make a tangable diff....but it certianly is trick.
*EDIT* i assume youd run the cooler before the feed to get cooler oil to the turbo, or after the return if its the engine temps youre worried about. Or both.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*EDIT* i assume youd run the cooler before the feed to get cooler oil to the turbo, or after the return if its the engine temps youre worried about. Or both.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think I would run it on the return side, and I am honestly thinking about doing this too, not that much money to keep temps down.
I think I would run it on the return side, and I am honestly thinking about doing this too, not that much money to keep temps down.
i would run the coolant lines. In a non-gt bb turbo oil is used to lubricate the bearings AND cool the turbo. A GT turbo uses oil only for lubrication of the bearings and not for cooling, hence why they need so much less oil to operate. The coolant lines are there to do take the place of the extra oil and cool the turbo. I would never run a 1300 dollar turbo without running the coolant lines...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BB6-213 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How many PSI are you running? Looks like 6 in your sig. Maybey it becomes more noticed at much higher boost levels.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, 6 lbs and on a 28R which, needless to say is substantially smaller than a 35R, but still, its working out as a pretty small fraction of the coolant actually passing through the system, and its making me wonder how much the cooling power of the radiator comes into this, and how its plumbed also does.
I'm not going to argue with whats been tested, if thats how it works, thats how it works, but I haven't noticed a major increase since I installed the turbo vs. what it was reading before it was installed, I've also got a completely stock cooling system if it matters any.
I suppose if you're going to go for the little oil cooler trick, just put an electric pump in the loop and give the turbo its own coolant circuit. (or a double core radiator with the tranny fluid loop in it).
Yes, 6 lbs and on a 28R which, needless to say is substantially smaller than a 35R, but still, its working out as a pretty small fraction of the coolant actually passing through the system, and its making me wonder how much the cooling power of the radiator comes into this, and how its plumbed also does.
I'm not going to argue with whats been tested, if thats how it works, thats how it works, but I haven't noticed a major increase since I installed the turbo vs. what it was reading before it was installed, I've also got a completely stock cooling system if it matters any.
I suppose if you're going to go for the little oil cooler trick, just put an electric pump in the loop and give the turbo its own coolant circuit. (or a double core radiator with the tranny fluid loop in it).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe all Gerrett GT series (referred here as BB -ball bearing) turbos are made to run collant lines. Ive read where Geoff says that he is yet to see a water cooled GT show better results on the dyno or long term.
Im gettin a GT35R and i dont plan to run water lines. That oil cooler idea is pimp tho. Im a sucker for any trick stuff like that. So you would run it from the block->cooler->oil feed->turbo? I seriously dout it will make a tangable diff....but it certianly is trick.
*EDIT* i assume youd run the cooler before the feed to get cooler oil to the turbo, or after the return if its the engine temps youre worried about. Or both.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stop this all, please guys. You're forgetting the key factor when running "R" series turbos that use ball-bearing center sections. FRICTION. the reason why you hear those great sounds from the turbo is the amount of friction that is created b/w the bearings that actually make CONTACT with one another. These ball-bearing cartridges use less oil than the journal bearing counterparts because it is relying on the coolant to keep the cartridge and bearing temperatures at a minimum. Journal bearing cartridges need a slightly thicker layer of oil in order to keep the journal bearings from contacting the thrust bearings, and to protect it. Having an oil cooler helps with the oil temperatures for constant and consistant hard driving (like HPDE racing or time attack) for the rest of the ENGINE but not as much for a DD or weekend warrior drag racing.
Getting a GT35R and not running the coolant lines for a remote possibility of SLIGHTLY running a little higher water temperature (which is negligent) is not only a fool's errand, but down right irresponsible for the turbo itself and its use. At that point you might as well run a GT35E or SC61 journal bearing turbo. If your GT3540R fails on you due to NOT running the coolant lines, you deserve to have to purchase a new cartridge.
A dyno is not on a "real world" scale. Run the lines, and save your turbo, for the love of realistic results and longevity, please.
Im gettin a GT35R and i dont plan to run water lines. That oil cooler idea is pimp tho. Im a sucker for any trick stuff like that. So you would run it from the block->cooler->oil feed->turbo? I seriously dout it will make a tangable diff....but it certianly is trick.
*EDIT* i assume youd run the cooler before the feed to get cooler oil to the turbo, or after the return if its the engine temps youre worried about. Or both.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stop this all, please guys. You're forgetting the key factor when running "R" series turbos that use ball-bearing center sections. FRICTION. the reason why you hear those great sounds from the turbo is the amount of friction that is created b/w the bearings that actually make CONTACT with one another. These ball-bearing cartridges use less oil than the journal bearing counterparts because it is relying on the coolant to keep the cartridge and bearing temperatures at a minimum. Journal bearing cartridges need a slightly thicker layer of oil in order to keep the journal bearings from contacting the thrust bearings, and to protect it. Having an oil cooler helps with the oil temperatures for constant and consistant hard driving (like HPDE racing or time attack) for the rest of the ENGINE but not as much for a DD or weekend warrior drag racing.
Getting a GT35R and not running the coolant lines for a remote possibility of SLIGHTLY running a little higher water temperature (which is negligent) is not only a fool's errand, but down right irresponsible for the turbo itself and its use. At that point you might as well run a GT35E or SC61 journal bearing turbo. If your GT3540R fails on you due to NOT running the coolant lines, you deserve to have to purchase a new cartridge.
A dyno is not on a "real world" scale. Run the lines, and save your turbo, for the love of realistic results and longevity, please.
if someone told me not to run coolant in my BB turbo id slap them in the face...thats whats your paid for!!! protect it!
i know jeff evens is supposed to be "the tune guru" or whatever but i think advice like that is pretty ******* stupid.
do your own research, even if a guy build motors all his life if he told you that putting drag slicks on the rear of your civic would increase your 0-60 time. they are flat out WRONG, dont just jump on the bandwagon because THEY said so.
(im briniging this back because ive read a few posts about not running coolant in $1000 GT turbocharger setups, some people deserve what they get.)
i know jeff evens is supposed to be "the tune guru" or whatever but i think advice like that is pretty ******* stupid.
do your own research, even if a guy build motors all his life if he told you that putting drag slicks on the rear of your civic would increase your 0-60 time. they are flat out WRONG, dont just jump on the bandwagon because THEY said so.
(im briniging this back because ive read a few posts about not running coolant in $1000 GT turbocharger setups, some people deserve what they get.)
we run a garret gt turbo on our hotrod car, its strictly track car. only runs minimal time. we recently sent the turbo in for a rebuild, and we were told the unit was showing signs of exessive heat. so take that for what its worth. its easy not to run the coolant lines, but a pretty careless move at the same time. if you have money to throw out the window by all means go for it, and run without coolant.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would run the coolant lines. In a non-gt bb turbo oil is used to lubricate the bearings AND cool the turbo. A GT turbo uses oil only for lubrication of the bearings and not for cooling, hence why they need so much less oil to operate. The coolant lines are there to do take the place of the extra oil and cool the turbo. I would never run a 1300 dollar turbo without running the coolant lines...</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is absolutely correct. For the long term, these cartridges are designed to run the coolant lines for this exact reason. It may seem like its "ok" for the short term or a dyno run, but long term this is very detrimental to the turbo, and if there were ever a problem, Garrett would not honor any warranty whatsoever. They would consider not running the lines negligent behavior, and void your claim immediately. I've road raced for a number of years with GT-R turbos running with the lines and with the water ports blocked off. We've destroyed several of these "R" turbos that needed the water lines after 6 events, due to the bearing failure. With the water lines run, we've seen very little change in water temps. So little that they couldn't possibly run "hot" or detrimental to the car, unless there is a coolant SYSTEM problem, not associated with the turbocharger.
This is absolutely correct. For the long term, these cartridges are designed to run the coolant lines for this exact reason. It may seem like its "ok" for the short term or a dyno run, but long term this is very detrimental to the turbo, and if there were ever a problem, Garrett would not honor any warranty whatsoever. They would consider not running the lines negligent behavior, and void your claim immediately. I've road raced for a number of years with GT-R turbos running with the lines and with the water ports blocked off. We've destroyed several of these "R" turbos that needed the water lines after 6 events, due to the bearing failure. With the water lines run, we've seen very little change in water temps. So little that they couldn't possibly run "hot" or detrimental to the car, unless there is a coolant SYSTEM problem, not associated with the turbocharger.
def. run your colant lines. there are is almost no difference in temp with the turbo lines or with out. i know this because i monitored my ECT on my S300 before and after i put the turbo on. and you really don't see any differences
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigbadboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">def. run your colant lines. there are is almost no difference in temp with the turbo lines or with out. i know this because i monitored my ECT on my S300 before and after i put the turbo on. and you really don't see any differences</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct! on my GT35R, i have not noticed an increase in temps. i would run the coolant lines!
correct! on my GT35R, i have not noticed an increase in temps. i would run the coolant lines!
my temps are about 10 degrees higher with the coolant lines run, but it never goes higher than that even if im beating on it all day. so to save those 10 degrees you will subject your turbo to way more steady degrees. if it works or not when it comes down to it...is it really worth it not to run the lines?
i run 15 pounds on the street with my water lines hooked up to my gt35r and i dont go above a 180deg in my water. i also run a 160temp JR thermostat. i dont see why it would be bad i mean most stock turbod cars have water lines to there turbos if it was bad why would they do it?
Holy ****.. I just realized I responded to this post exactly 1 year to the DAY!! 5/3/2006, and 5/5/2007. That's just too creepy.
I'm getting outta here. going to the batting cages. It's nice out.
I'm getting outta here. going to the batting cages. It's nice out.
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