tuning is the only key you must maintain a low cyliner pressure with the thinner sleeves thus having lower hp but still maintaining the high TQ specs due to the 2L non-vtec motor thus allowing the high traps and quick times on slicks better to be rich and retarted than lean and broke ($$) ... with my 90 hb si im going for mid 11's this year with stock everything from intake mani down down to pistons , rods , sleeves... just for the fun of it tuning makes the motor run smoother than my factory turbo daily beater talon tsi ... AWD doughnuts in snow broken rear end i already miss my honda . damn winters

 

t3 should be good and id get 550s( more room to tune just incase _ because they are only slightly more than other lower injectors a walbro 255hp and a engine management system no hacks imho its more now cheaper forever oh and either use those rod things or a block gaurd be safe even though u arent fully building it.. and i agree run rich

 

i would like to know more.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allablur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....oh and either use those rod things or a block gaurd be safe even though u arent fully building it.. and i agree run rich </TD></TR></TABLE>

Understand that a block guard only prevents your sleeves from shifting under load and it will in no way prevent a cracked sleeve... which seems B20's are prone to under too much pressure.

With few exceptions, I notice that the majority of B20's that I've read about in this post and other sources seem to hold about 10psi max before giving problems with the sleeves. I would personally intend to go with only 7-8 psi max due to my chassis' weight, but as you all know... boost is like cocaine... you always want more no matter how much you already use.

I think tuning has a tremendous impact on the life of an engine, so getting a good tuner and keeping cylinder pressures as low as possible would definitely allow the stock internals to handle the job... but again... 10psi (in general) seems to be the upper end of the spectrum from the stock B20 turbo setup.

I currently run an all motor setup, close to 2.0L and I'll be damned if it doesn't pull better than my previous LS and LSVT setups. It's like night and day, so I'd much rather run boost on a 2.0L rather than a 1.8L, especially if it's under 10psi. Horsepower sells cars, but Torque wins races... words to live by.

I think we've established that this isn't a general 'What do I need to boost my honda ?' topic.... but more input from B20/turbo saavy people is defenitely welcome...

X2 (I type too much)

 

hey dont mean to jack your thread but i just picked up a 00 b20z with 15 miles...yes 15 miles...the crv was totalled on the way home from buying it. i plan to do the exact same thing you want to do. daily driver not high boost race on weekends. and i dont plan to beat my car all the time but then again ive never boosted before. i just wanna know what would be a safe, reliable, powerful, and not totally expensive setup using the stock b20z. any help would be much appreciated...im basically looking for someone who has what im looking to do to my car and tell me about it.
Rob0

 

 

I had a B20 with some goodies (stock block) and put down 210/190 @ 6psi. Actually the previous owner, JalopySIR did. Can't take the credit. It was very fun to drive!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hoosier Daddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a B20....put down 210/190 @ 6psi....It was very fun to drive!</TD></TR></TABLE>

What happened to it ?

 

PM him if he doesn't answer. The B20 would have run on 6psi indefinately, there was a "glitch" He now has a built 1.8 block.

 

to you guys who had cracked sleeves...did you guys gave any engine mangement systems like ame, hondata....? im thinkin about runnin the b20 turbo set up too and i have all the pieces like injectors, pump, hondata...and the rest....is this a good idea? now if i put it all together do i need to get it tuned at a specific psi or is it for all, just different maps for each psi?

all in all i heard good things about the b20 turbo!

 

tuned they run and run and run just tune safe for reliability not max power. This will push the car far and fast but not break it in a day. Mine is tuned for 15-16 psi this year on 93-94 octane daily driving also. Just dont beat it to crap and back aslo

 

i had a turbo b20......on 8psi it was fine, turned the boost up to 10 and it ran a 12.93 on 3 cylinders.........messed the motor up racing a gt2 porsche on the way to the track, great setup really fun to drive, just make sure yo have management.......damn fmu

 

I have heard that a stock b20 block will hold only 6 PSI before cracking?

 

my friend had a b20z with a b16 head that ripped for awhile with 7 pounds till the boost spiked hard and took out a sleeve.....it was still way faster than his current lsvtec with 9-10 pounds

 

You heard right, that's the magic number! Anything over 6psi will be catastrophic. Whoever you get your info from is a genious.

 

so basically if we have good fuel managment and get it tuned safely we should be fine? im looking for 5psi street and 7-8psi at track on a E trim turbo. stock internal b20z. any more opinions please!!!

 

im gathering my turbo set up for my b20.. and its gonna stay in my 4wd crv for my daily driver.. im planning to stay with a internal wastegate.. a really small t3. just so i can pass people on the freeway and climb up hills... im gonna most likely use the FMU set up.. i was thinking small turbo like the single cam greddy turbo...at stock psi with a side mount intercooler.. with a tranny cooler since im auto LOL... been my project for the past month..maybe even use a safc...

 

Now you guys all know the crank in the B20 block and a B18 non-vtec block is the same crank they just open the bore up. I know of all motor B20 that can't hold the stock sleeves.

 

Running a B20/VTEC w/ 2mm head gasket at 8-9 psi w/ 440 cc injectors, skunk 2 intake, GSR cams, hondata, dyno tuning, etc. Timing set to retard .5 deg/ pound.

Ran well (minor HG leak) until last month (that was a year + of DAILY abuse)... it has a major hesitation problem now... been to cold to work on it, will be getting into it soon.

I think the B20 is a GREAT engine, loads of tourqe, very linear power, easy to drive. If something is wrong, I will sleeve it, for sure...

I though I could "escape" the engine problems with a B20 with careful tuning, etc. but I don't think it's possible now.

Dyno at 5psi

 

OH MAN.... look at that HP to Tq curve.... 200whp AND 189wtq for 5psi ! Nice.... A stock head'd B20 shouldn't be too far behind tq-wise (i assume)

What's your final CR with that 2mm HG (with that head) ?

 

 

I helped a friend boost his stock block B20. We pushed it till it broke because he was planning to sleeve it anyway. We got to 12lbs at the track just running an FMU and adjustable FPR. Up until then it pulled like hell. Like eveybody else said the sleeves are the weak part.

 

Are both of these runs with a Super 60? If I had to do mine all over again, I think I would go with that turbo. Don't get me wrong, I got awesome numbers with my T28, but a T3 setup is infinitely easier.

 

i'm building a b20b with 8 psi from a t25. as managment goes i will be running 440cc injectors, chiped ecu, boost timinig master, smc plus, 255 walbro fuel pump and some good tuning ( tapp auto). you guys think i'm ganna be ok? (realable)

 

Why do you need a BTM with a chipped ecu ?