how much torque is a competition stage 3 clutch good for? im hoping at least 340 lb-ft. im thinking of using it on a turbo 2.0 gsr. i plan to run 18psi with a precision sc61, ugraded valvetrain, and just about every bolt on part you can use for a turbo'd car. im looking to make 430 whp and maybe 300 lb-ft torque a 18 psi with race gas. im also going to running bfg drag radials if that helps any.


Modified by chrisgottigsr at 6:45 PM 1/9/2006

 

bump...id like some info as well

 

somebody? its the Street Strip Karbonite Series 2300. heres what they say in the description.

The CC Street 2300 Series kit is the absolute ultimate in performance clutch technology. This performance setup is rated to handle 150-200% increase in torque capacity. This assembly is designed for the aggressive enthusiast both on and off the track and is ensured to deliver extended life with moderate engagement.

This 2300 kit includes:

A Competition Clutch performance pressure plate
A high torque sprung disc with segmented steel backed Carbon Metallic facings
All applicable bearings
The appropriate alignment tool.

150-200% increase in torque capacity? im not a math major, i need to know how much torque it will hold just like ACT tells you in there description. somebody please help me.

 

Go with the CC stage4. We put them in just about every turbo car we build ranging from 250-500whp. We use the stage5 (first one on the market and holding great!!) in our shops turbo lexus making 550whp on lowboost. Anything more you should look into the twin disc.
PS. If you looking for the best pricing let me know, Im a CC dealer.


Modified by 93LSivic at 12:57 PM 1/10/2006

 

I called and talked to them awhile back, I described my setup that will be in the spring (around 300whp) and she suggested the stage 4 for anything up to around 500 i think (thats right she! it was kind of hot cause she knew what she was talkin about) so i think you would be better off with the stage 4, its better to overshoot then undershoot, at least if you overshoot, you have more room for improvement. The last thing you want is to have a clutch that starts slipping as soon as you get on the dyno

 

i heard that 6 puck clutches eat up your flywheel

 

I have sold soooooooooooooooo many Competition Clutch clutches they are great. I sell alot of the Stage 5s though and also the Stage 5 with upgraded pressure plate to handle those 450whp+ cars and ones that won't spend the money on a twin disc. As Dan mentioned earlier I would prolly jump to teh stage 4 if I were you, I always feel you should jump up ONE STAGE just in case, that is just me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisgottigsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard that 6 puck clutches eat up your flywheel</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just replaced my tranny, clutch and flywheel, I had a 6 puck and stock pressure plate and everything looked good, i replaced it with another 6 puck and lighter flywheel, 11lbs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go with the CC stage4. We put them in just about every turbo car we build ranging from 250-500whp. We use the stage5 (first one on the market and holding great!!) in our shops turbo lexus making 550whp on lowboost. Anything more you should look into the twin disc.
PS. If you looking for the best pricing let me know, Im a CC dealer.


Modified by 93LSivic at 12:57 PM 1/10/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1!!
Dan (93LSivic) reccomended me the cc stage 4 and gave me a great price on it!
I drive my car DAILY back and forth from rush hour without any issues
and my car made over 270 lbs of torque.

 

the reason i asked is because competetion said the stage 3 and 4 both rated rated to handle 150-200% increase in torque capacity

 

when choosing between a full face disc and a 6 puck i was told the 6 puck would have more bite to it, and that the full face would develop more heat spots causing it to slip sooner

 

Anyone run one of these? I'd like to know because I assume with it being full face the feel would probably be close to stock with no chatter. Also puck style clutches act like a screw into your flywheel, that is why they grab so hard and have the potential to break transmissions (not necessarily talking Honda here).

 

Why did you bump a 9 year old thread? Don't do that. Just search and read. You should know better. Your "screw" analogy makes no sense.

 

Rather common. The "Stage 2" takes about 300ft/lbs of torque, or 80% more torque than stock, while the "Stage 3" can handle about 450ft/lbs or 150% of stock. For a Honda b-series that is making making 300-400whp, the stage 3 should be more than enough to handle and still be nice on the leg.

 

Shodan...OP got his response 9 years ago

 

How the hell do you think I found the thread other than searching?

Please explain to me how the screw analogy makes no sense. How do you think they grab so hard? Why do you think a 4 puck grabs harder than a 6 puck?

 

*sigh* This is just going to get out of hand.. Please..just use the Stage 3 if you're goin with Competition clutch, my brotha'....... :/

 

Sounds good, I believe I will give it a try and that was my thought as well. I just didn't understand all of the "Forget that, go straight to the stage 4". I would much rather have a clutch that slightly slipped over a over clutched setup.

 

The full faced friction disc along with the sprung hub should make the clutch engage almost entirely like stock. In comparison to "puck" type friction discs the full faced disc has more surface area to spread the load from engagement evenly, making engagement easier. The CC Stage 3 uses a segmented ceramic friction material. It isn't as aggressive as a full metallic material yet not as limited as a fiber based clutch. Due to the material and large surface area of the full faced disc they don't really like to be slipped although you shouldn't need to slip this clutch much if at all really.

Excess slipping will cause heat buildup in the friction disc which can damage/shorten the service life of the clutch. Also this excess heat has nowhere to go but into the flywheel and pressure plate. Enough heat over a long enough period of time/recurring events will cause both of those surfaces to heat check and warp. Warping will cause engagement/disengagement issues, potential slippage under high loads, and will prematurely accelerate friction material wear.

Also the friction material has an impact on engagement as well. The lower coefficient of friction the material has the less aggressively it will grab at the clamping surfaces. Bear in mind that the clamping force of the pressure plate has a massive impact on pedal stiffness and pedal feel. Typically CC doesn't play around much with the pressure plate across the various single plate clutches. Last time I checked stages 1-5 all use the same pressure plate, at least in regard to the B series application.

And your screw analogy isn't really on the mark... think more of it like sandpaper... The "puck" discs with metallic/sintered iron friction material are very aggressive in regards to how they grab the clamping surfaces. The lower the number of pucks the more aggressive the engagement. So each time the clutch clamps down this material will remove minute amounts of material from the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces. Factor in that these clutches usually take an excessive amount of slippage (especially with a lightweight flywheel) from a dead stop. This slippage only exacerbates the sandpaper like effect on the flywheel and PP

 

I'm using a CC stage 2 and my setup is putting down 286wtq and its holding up just fine. You should be good with a stage 3.

 

FWIW, I ran a CC4 on my turbo GSR as my daily and it was fine. After you get past the break-in period, its not actually that bad. It was on par with the Exedy Stage2 I had previously, as far as engagement and pedal feel. I'd recommend it

 

And this is where I'm at. I'm in the fence between the CC stage 4 and trying the stage 3. I've had the stage 4 before and I believe the shop did not surface the flywheel as I had HORRIBLE chatter at first. I contacted CC and they said to literally beat the crap out of it and that will make the clutch seat to the flywheel. That made it a little better but reverse was still a pain when it came to chattering.

So at this point I'm wondering if the stage 3 would offer enough holding grip and have a more stock pedal feel over the stage 4. I think I'm going to give stage 3 a try, but no you are correct after break in the stage 4 isn't that bad.

 

How long has it been holding up and how do you drive? Nice to know!

 

A good resurface is needed as well as proper break-in. If they didn't resurface well, I'm not surprised you had to do it yourself by way of creating contact patches on it by "beating the **** out of it".

 

It got resurfaced one way or another