let the install begin. ebay kit + basemap street tuned = boost for $600

 

everything is now installed, all the pipes hooked up I wasnt missing anything but it was not a slide on piece I had to take off the dump and down pipe then re assemble.

1. shouldnt I be using some adhesive when I bolt up the dump tube and what not. the down pipe has its own gasket.
2. the down pipe has only a hair of clearance from the oil pan, will he heat hurt anything? I could wrap it.
3. Im pretty stoked :D and need suggestions. the oil pan is ready to go on and oil line for the turbo, then fuel upgrades install injectors, get a tune and see from there

 

in4updates

 

K whats it going to take to get this started and out of my garage to the dyno shop? or atleast started so I can warm it up during winter n what not.

ive looked and looked no definite person running the extra fuel and backed off timing on a basemap to get around and troubleshoot any issues before seeing the 125$ per hour shops.

help

 

bov's work and Iv used plenty of w.g.s as long as you don't buy the cheapest pos on ebay lol. turbos are pretty much hit or miss but mostly junk.

 

The Tial wastegate with a low psi spring is what I want and to use a basemap with the right parameters to run it and show me on the wideband all is ok to get around but I also want to spool it up and make sure its working.

im sure its a bad idea but could I not start it on a stock ecu and stock injectors and idle it warm it and move around the driveway? lol. **** i just want to cruise over to the tuner hit boost a couple times tune it and make the real gravy atleast some what relaibly !

 

You can start it with one of the coupler's disconnected and drive out of boost to the tuner, where you can then install the larger injectors hook your management back up and tune. But to think you can drive around with positive pressure on stock injectors with stock ECU is engine suicide.

Othwerwise, you can tow to the tuner.. But for now, looks like you're stuck for the winter. Young people in a hurry.. what can I tell you..

 

so for referece parts I need to put on to finish:

walbro pump and turbo injectors
tial wg and choice spring (?)
fittings for waste gate to vac
install boost gauge
install oil pan with fitting, and turbo oil sandwich feed
optional items:
3bar map sensor and boost controller


anything else? I still dont know about the oil restrictors but I wont be using one at this point.

 

I still don't see management in this list.

 

manegement is driving it with the pipe of to a dyno tuner shop and have it dynoed.... my only thought are I should change the cams and upgrade the manifold first to ensure max flow

also curious about making a catch can for it all. must have or no?

 

you do not need a catch can for your boost and even before you start worrying about that and sinking money into a motor that it sounds to me like you are not interested in doing.

 

I couldnt even wait till spring and everything got put on in few hours. im pumped and most of the money is already sunk into the car anyway lol

heres a Q: Id rather not tap into the fpr to vac manifold line for the bov and boost gauge. these tubes pull a vac aswell on my manifold. can I use the two nipples that stick out on this manifold?

 

I could not get the oil plate on straight will this do?



this is where the inlet for the wastegate hose goes, should I make a new spot somewhere closer to the turbo outlet or is this ok?

 

Honestly, doing an ebay build is a waste of money. Granted, you may be new to the whole building process and turbo builds, and it is a "cheap" was to get introduced but be prepared to replace parts and spend double what you shoulda spent to do it right the first time. I started my first build with a ebay kit, and it made junk power, took alot of modifications, and starting falling apart.

Key parts to not skimp out on when doing an "ebay" build, is the Wastegate (please get a good brand, like Turbosmart, or Tial), as well as a non ebay turbo (they are none for cheap structure, poor seals, and are actually 45mm turbos..smaller then what they are actually advertised as), and most important.. a manifold.

Your manifold looks decent, the turbo i cant really tell without seeing it in person (and im not too sure why the exhaust turbine is so black).

Also, ditch the HKS knockoff (or real thing, either way they are junk IMO)

 

I dont mind changing those parts before it goes under way....

list is bigger:
vac box to keep things clean n easy (20-30$)
bov inline filter for the vac box (seems like a good idea anyway)
resistor box to run low imp. 680cc precision (40$ maybe dont know much about this)
gm 3bar (20-50$)
boost controller (turbosmart) 30$
boost gauge 30-80$ I want digital but w/e
oil pan gasket and oilpan install 10-20$
exhaust work 40$
new ngk 7's, or 8? 20$

200 for all that 500 on kit with everything 200 wideband + tial wg $120-150 + name bov later on 100-150$ = around 1100$ untuned...


double check everything run the car and off to tune

exhaust

 

why would you run that big cat?

 

You can't dyno and tune WITHOUT A COMPUTER MANAGEMENT PROGRAM to alter the fuel, timing and injectors. You can't do MAX FLOW on anything without management. That's like saying you're putting together a car and decided not to use an engine.

 

the engine is chipped on a p28 im sure they use ectune neptune or some software at the tuner as of now the car uses chrome one n/a chip and one for nitrous parameters.

The cat flows well

:: small update I am getting my hands on a slightly used tial wg, I suppose ill take off the ebay one and bring it to compare but it shouldnt have any problem bolting up? one weak point gone

 

I am not sure what would work the best for my setup on the wastegate line.

run it to the vacuum distribution box
run it to the intercooler pipe about 1ft away from the housing
drill into the housing and thread it a fitting there.

its set up for #2 but that doesnt mean its right!

 

we've been over this before. boost done right is about $4000 all said and done

you can make 300whp or 500whp for that money. very little difference in price. it's the quality, reliability and usefulness you pay for. cheap **** can kill engines, be hard to tune and come apart, if it even fits right

all the same parts minus the actual turbo and injectors that you would use to make 300whp are used at 500whp. injectors are about the same price and turbo wise you would be going from a 5431e to something like a 5557min to a 6262max. $200 difference is it

 

thats pretty big money the injectors flow about 400hp+ the tial waste gate is a good add on and the manifold will surely last a while. Im just missing the name brand turbo and blow off valve. what I have now one would pay nearly 1500-2500$ for. I get your response tho. since money is an object for now lets not even think 300+ hp 299 tops for the upcoming year is fine ill outdrive people :D

1 precision injector # 67295 im pretty sure they are low impredance but I hear they are high impedance :s

 

ok oil pan on today and run a few lines, I need to get a bung welded, o2 sensor wrench complete down pipe.

Ill use some permitex high temp adhesive on both sides of the oil pan gasket all around

but no clue what to use on the manifold wg and dump connections. some create a gasket or w/e that red/orangey stuff is

I got slapped with the wrong fuel pump so thats on delay. an unproductive week.

its time to get the turbo primed and the car started

 

fixed

 

i am not the best cook, But this is not a recipe nobody should follow. Good luck, but this doesnt look like a happy ending. You oviously are trying to budget which we all can repsect but you could end up with a blown motor and no money to fix it. The whole do it right the first time or do it again all over could apply here