Finished up with the build. Finally have some time to post a few pics.

94 Integra GSR
Fresh Swapped JDM GSR (HMO)
M62 JRSC + LHT Intercooler

Tear it down





New manifold from LHT Performance



Internal goodies



Have to put the water somewhere



Heat exchanger needs a home. Yes that is an A/C line. Car will have PS and A/C.



I got lucky buying a used kit. All brackets where included.



It's beginning to come together. Got to love hondabond!





more to come...

 

So onto the heat exchange system...

Step 1: Find a friend who has fabrication skills.




This is how things are constructed when your used to building trophy trucks! I think the car will break around these mounts some day! LOL



I was doing pull-ups from the top mounting bar.



Mounting brackets for Bosch water pump



All bolted in.



Pump and heat exchanger in place



I drilled out the holes where the wiper pumps connect and replaced them with new rubber grommits and pvc fittings



Finished



First stage complete.



First stage complete.

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps752bde4a.jpg

 

pics not working dude
use the IMG link in your photo bucket just copy n paste it
or your pics are set to private ?


WORKING NOW

 

nice work man!

 

Looking great. That's a badass setup.

 

is that the gen3 lht manifold

 

Badass. I love it. That looks great behind the bumper

 

It's not the gen3 mani. I picked this up from them about 7 months before they came out with the gen3. I believe the gen3 is about 5-10% more efficient in cooling.

 

nice weld mounts on the heat exchanger. I have to go back and fix mine some day. Looking good!!

 

Can someone chime in on this, I thought the purpose of the intercoolers' brass bleeder valve was to bleed out air in the system. Therefore, wouldn't it be advantageous to mount the intercooler so that the bleed valve is on top? I know it's not the lowest point in the system but, still.

 

the brass valve is to drain the system
any air in the system will come out in the res tank

 

I do hope you are getting rid of that horrible pressure switch to fool the IAT sensor into thinking it's cold. Get it tuned poperly using something like the Hondata s300.

I'm running this setup on my ITR with nice dual pass heat exchanger from AFCO. Using the CRV crank pulley, MVM stepper and a 3.8 blower pully making about 11 PSI with comptech race header, and a high flow 200 cell metal cat, and Comptech catback exhaust. This makes about 285hp and about 185lbs/ft tq (can't remember the exact tq number off hand, but pretty sure this is right). This was featured in a issue of honda_tuning a number of years ago.

 

I'm not sure about the pressure switch, but the car was tuned with the S300 unit at CAT. I'm curious what stepper pulley I have because I'm running the 4.0 nose, jdm crv crank, and aftermarket stepper and I'm seeing boost around 13-14psi.

 

I think you need to recheck the Boost gauge
to reach 13-14psi on your setup regardless of stepper size of just under 19%

at best you should be @ 11.5-12.5max at your elevation 1590Feet
but then take off another 1-1.2 psi for the LHT and you drop to 10.5-11.5psi max

 

I have a analog Autometer boost gauge, but I would like to switch to a PLX digital gauge to match my wideband. If I wire up the datalogging feature in Hondata maybe I would be able to check how much boost?

The info. I found at this link https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/jrsc-b-series-blower-pulley-boost-belt-specs-2448504/ suggests I should be running around 12.8psi, but I also have to factor the 1-2 psi drop from the LHT mod. If it's 11psi I'm still stoked! Couldn't imagine what 2 more lbs would feel like! (Let's see; less traction, less traction. less traction...)

I do know the stock map sensor was maxed out when the car was being tuned and I had to put a Hondata 4bar before continuing. (4bar was all they had available at the shop)

 

High boost readings are a sign of restrictions in the exhaust.

If you have the s300 you can datalog and see exactly what the MAP sensor is reading.

VDO makes much better gauges, they also look much better and are very reasonably priced. (they match an ITR/GSR cluster with orange needles perfectly)

 

^ I have a VDO guage for boost only (without vac). It's nice but it's easily the most dim lit guage I've seen (even after putting an LED in it).

 

The one with boost and vac together has much better illumination as there is more text, numbers and metering. Search for VDO Vision series.

 

Snapped a few pics of the dash setup.

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Registered. Great build! Can't wait to see the numbers.

 

Good job, I had the JRSC sent it out to Larry at Endyn to work the supercharger over and beef it up.. I also had the LHT intercooler setup back in 2007 but it leaked.. I sent the LHT manifold back to John three times to fix each time.. Got tired of the problems and sold everything and went turbo.

Hopefully the intercoolers are stronger than they were in the past.. My GSR setup with everything made 273 so good luck..

 

So I'm finally getting around to posting final numbers.

I had the car tuned on two separate occasions due to belt slippage and new parts. First time, the numbers were close to what I was aiming for, but I was much more satisfied with the numbers from my second visit.

Quick Specs:
98 JDM GSR
JRSC w/LHT manifold
Hondata S300v2
Deatschwerks 750cc inj.
E85

Take a look:

Finalized engine bay




Dyno graph. Blue Lines are from the first tune. Pink lines are after mods and super belt tightening! New header and exhaust installed.

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Boost Graph

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Car runs smooth and is a blast to drive. I love how the power is always there when my foot demands it.

 

Good numbers...im sure its a blast around town

 

realy good results

 

Nice setup!