Ok I took my motor to Tony1 to tune. Cranked up for the first time there and sounded nice. Got it on the dyno..everything was going good. Till.. vtec kicked in but fell out. My feed line to my head is to small. From what I seen -6an is the one to use. I have a GE sandwich adapter on its way for that. Hopefully that will be solved.

This is the one that confuse me. My oil pressure gauge will go up when I am driving. It will also go up when I crank the car up. When it gets up to normal temperature. It just sits at 0. I do not understand what is going on. I took apart my oil distribution box. One line had teflon tape in it. Got that out, started it and still no difference. Engine sounds fine but doesnt stay 0 while driving only idling. The oil pump is new and it is a gsr pump.What is going on???


Modified by redturbocivic at 11:20 PM 8/23/2004

 

if your oil pressure is 0 at idle then you have problems ... are you sure the gauge/sensor is installed correctly?

Any way of taking some pictures for us? I have a greddy oil pressure gauge and its fine.

 

It is hooked up correctly that I know of. I am trying to get a lil juice in my battery then I can take some pics. I have the wire from the gauge to the sending unit. The two wires grounded. One to the 12v ignition wire

 

Here is a pic of my sending unit and the lines running out of the same block

 

do you have 2 outsources from that 1 oil line? if so then that maybe your problem. just to give you an example: my oil pressure gauge read 50 psi at idle before turbo was installed. once the turbo was installed and i tapped off where the pressure silenoid was, pressure dropped down to 25psi. assuming that for each time you tap off an oil line it takes away 25 psi, therefor you will end up with 0psi at idle. i know this doesn't make any sense and is by no way logical, but i'm just trying to help ya out. maybe 2 tapped sources and a pressure silenoid is too many things on one line?

 

run some mobile 1 20w 50 that cured my low oil pressure mystery fairy and my **** was brand new too like yours

 

Ya, what kind of oil are you using?
That Distribution setup is FINE! You sure you have enough oil in there? You know it takes more oil than stock now since there is a turbo on there.
Try adding a ground to the housing of the oil press sender. It might help??
I would sugest you check the vtec oil press solinoid since that is why you are falling out of vtec. BUT if you have that low of oil press alreay, its proly not the sensor.

 

Get rid of the electrical guages. Get a mechanical one, then you will know forsure what oil pressure the motor has.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MIKES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get rid of the electrical guages. Get a mechanical one, then you will know forsure what oil pressure the motor has. </TD></TR></TABLE>

word up!

 

My mechanical gauge was reading 0psi at idle. Changing the oil filter and raising the idle to ~700rpms gave me 10psi at idle. Im pretty sure its still reading low though as its a crappy gauge and the gauge line runs off a 4 way fitting.

 

I am using 10w-30 penzoil. Maybe when that GE adapter comes in. I will take that one line off that is feeding my head. Take one of those big square fitting off. So then I will only have the feed line, the line out the block and the sending unit. Then I will try to run a ground of the top of the sending unit.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">run some mobile 1 20w 50 that cured my low oil pressure mystery fairy and my **** was brand new too like yours</TD></TR></TABLE>

How long did you run this for?

 

PENZOIL sucks
I'm going back to mobil 1.

 

Does the oil pressure light near the speedo come on at idle? it is set to come on if the pressure drops below about 7psi i think. If it is not coming on then you have some pressure! and it might be your gauge at fault.

 

I dont have my stock one in. I took it out and put the gauge sending unit in its place. Once I get my parts I will take the line off going to the head and put my stock sending unit there. THen it will read off of 2 units

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MIKES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get rid of the electrical guages. Get a mechanical one, then you will know forsure what oil pressure the motor has. </TD></TR></TABLE>

...and risk losing the weak nylon hose at some point in the connection (dumping all your oil out...) - also creating two easy points for leakage (one being inside your car). I'd suggest using the electrical. Works fine for me.

 

yeah I had an oil leak in my dash... twice! that sucked, so much for the new car smell, and my rugs

I'm curious to know what the problem turns out to be...

 

I had the same problem. Once my car is heated up on a hot day, I've even had the oil pressure dummy light flicker on and off due to low pressure.

It's nothing to worry about as long as the pressure increases with RPM's. An internal problem would have allready occured in the time you ran the motor if the pressure was actually that low, and since the pump's driven by the crank (and I'm assuming its brand new) there shouldnt be any reason why it fails to output the right pressure. Another possibility is a clogged oil pickup, but again that shouldnt be an issue with a fresh motor.

At about 8000rpm my gauge reads ~25psi because all the pressure is taking the least path of resistance straight to the turbo, instead of to the pressure sender.

Hope that sorta helps

 

THat is what thought..if it was low major damage should of already happened. THat lil gasket that goes on the oil pick up. I never bought I new, cause I didnt think I would have to replace it. THink that could cause this problem?

 

mechanical oil pressure guages work well.. one problem i see is the autometer(or whatever brand you have) sender has to be ground itself... take a hose clamp and a self-tapping screw and install it in your firewall... then clamp the hose clamp around the sender... most of the problems i see with these guages are because the sender case is not grounded...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fullracegsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mechanical oil pressure guages work well.. one problem i see is the autometer(or whatever brand you have) sender has to be ground itself... take a hose clamp and a self-tapping screw and install it in your firewall... then clamp the hose clamp around the sender... most of the problems i see with these guages are because the sender case is not grounded... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats how I have mine setup.

about 2400 miles on my fully built GSR motor and it shows about 30psi @ idle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fullracegsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mechanical oil pressure guages work well.. one problem i see is the autometer(or whatever brand you have) sender has to be ground itself... take a hose clamp and a self-tapping screw and install it in your firewall... then clamp the hose clamp around the sender... most of the problems i see with these guages are because the sender case is not grounded... </TD></TR></TABLE>


hmm...i have to try this once I get off work...thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si2die4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ya, what kind of oil are you using?
That Distribution setup is FINE! You sure you have enough oil in there? You know it takes more oil than stock now since there is a turbo on there.
Try adding a ground to the housing of the oil press sender. It might help??
I would sugest you check the vtec oil press solinoid since that is why you are falling out of vtec. BUT if you have that low of oil press alreay, its proly not the sensor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


if he has enough oil in his motor the problem may still lye within the way he has his oil line setup. with two lines outsourcing the oil before it even gets to the pressure silenoid, once the oil reaches the silenoid the pressure may not even be great enough for the silenoid to read.

 

I think my ground might be screwed up or something. I was putting the gauge in my pod and when i was touching the wire. THe gauge would shut off or the needle will go through out the numbers. For example, it went to 100 just by touching the wire. I am having the worst luck when I am trying to get my car going

 

a friend of mine had your problem and it turned out to be a fucked up main bearing that was spitting out all the oil. the car had no pressure at idle and ran for quite a while without problems,even raced it. cut open your old oil filter to see if you have any heavy debri. if your have a mechanical guage that says low pressure also then this might be the problem. the guy i mentioned above ended up getting the crank cleaned up and motor rebuilt luckily no major damage!

 

***Update*** problem fixed my oil pressure sending unit was in a bad location. I bought the ge sandwich deal and works out to be running good. Thought my motor was going down the drain. Time to hit the dyno again for round 2 sometime