I was thinking about buy a b20b block and rebuilding it then slap on my Gsr head and boost it.

First I hear that b20s suck *** for boosting, so should i not even take the risk.
second what will I need to do to make the block good enough to boost, I plan on spending about 1000-1500$ on the rebuild then about 2000-3000 on the turbo/turbo parts.

Should i just stick with my b18c1 block?

 

Stick with ur B18c block and have it sleeved. I would also recommend getting ls crank.

 

b18c1's respond great to boost

what are you power goals?

 

LS sleeved and bore to 84mm

 

A properly tuned b20 will last quite awhile. Anybody want to argue that they can ride shot gun in my road race car, and i'll beat the **** out of it every session.

 

Here is the last built b20 that I did



It would have easily broke the 500whp marker... but the injectors maxed out.

 

what was done to your block to reach 468hp? and how much did just the work to the block cost and also how much total you put into the car? lol

 

You can check his set-up out at http://www.av-engineered.com

It had a good amount of stuff done to it.

 

But would it be possible to make a good b20 block for 1500$ give or take a few hundred.

 

If you do everything yourself besides machine work.... you'll most likely need at least $2,000.

 

i second that. 2k at minimum

but you have to take into consideration you need

parts:

sleeves (optionial) 800.00
pistons 500.00
rods 350.00
rings 120.00 or comes with pistons
bearings 120.00

= $1,770.00 with sleeves
= $970.00 without sleeves

HOWEVER!

the machine part will kill you most definitly

you will have to:

hot tank block and head (optionial but its nice to work with clean parts)
balance and rotate assembly
hone block
bore block (optionial if larger pistons are in the mix)
deck block
resurface head
file rings
measure and check all clearences
install sleeves


when i was looking to build a block i was looking to spend around $3,500.00
my basic block was looking like this:

b18a1 darton pro sleeved block (already sleeved) 700.00
arias low compresion pistons 500.00
eagle rods 350.00
acl bearings 120.00

roughly = $1670.00 for parts alone

local race shop assebly with blue prine and all= $750.00
machine shop= $450.00

total = 2,870.00

but it also doesnt include alot of other things you dont think of when building a block ie:

arp main studs
arp head studs
cometic head gasket
new timing belt
new tensoner
new oil pump
new water pump

all that **** so in reality my budget of 3500.00 wasnt even enough.... but that was doing EVERYTHING the right way. you might be able to get away with that low of cost but you will have to make sacrafices that will be damning thats for sure

 

he still hasnt said his power goal

 

it will cost a lot to build up the motor.

the extra displacemnt of the b20 will be nice, but id run a lower boost setup on it.

i think you can get pistons and rods, along with headstuds and a good tuner and be set with the c1 motor

 

Ok well my power goal is somewhere between 300whp and 400whp. I think I'm just going to stick with my Gsr motor, it seems more cost effective.


But I know my motor deffently needs a rebuild, I have a little less than 150K miles on it and now im woundering if i should buy a brand new JDM Longblock from hmotorsonline.com for only 1800$ or should I just drop new pistons rods maybe a crank and all other parts needed into the motor I already have?

 

Bump

 

Here is the best advice you need. I would buy manley rods, cp or other brand pistons, arp hardware and stock sleeves.

you can make over 600whp with this setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoon07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


But I know my motor deffently needs a rebuild, I have a little less than 150K miles on it and now im woundering if i should buy a brand new JDM Longblock from hmotorsonline.com for only 1800$ or should I just drop new pistons rods maybe a crank and all other parts needed into the motor I already have?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would rebuild the engine you have now. You are looking at having a FRESH engine compared to one that has 30k+ miles on it. On top of that it will be stock so you will not have the added insurance that you would have with a fully built bottom end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoon07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok well my power goal is somewhere between 300whp and 400whp. I think I'm just going to stick with my Gsr motor, it seems more cost effective.


But I know my motor deffently needs a rebuild, I have a little less than 150K miles on it and now im woundering if i should buy a brand new JDM Longblock from hmotorsonline.com for only 1800$ or should I just drop new pistons rods maybe a crank and all other parts needed into the motor I already have?</TD></TR></TABLE>

why rebuild the motor when u can swap a new motor in for cheaper

 

Up!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by triple_s1x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A properly tuned b20 will last quite awhile. Anybody want to argue that they can ride shot gun in my road race car, and i'll beat the **** out of it every session. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Cool. I'm considering a B20B for next season... I have a turbo B18B currently. Everyone said it would pop within 6 months, but it's been nearly 3 years now, and I've beaten the living **** out of it more times than I can even remember. I don't see a B20B/Z really being any different...

People say that the B20B/Z's cylinder walls are thin because it has a larger bore in the same size block... That would certainly be true if the block were really all aluminum, but it's not... unlike the Chevy Vega, our cylinders come with sleeves in them. If you were to bore a B18 from it's 81mm to the B20's 84mm, you would certainly weaken the cylinder walls because you're taking that metal out of the sleeve. However, the B20B/Z is designed from the factory to have an 84mm bore, so I would certainly expect it to come with an adequately sized sleeve, and not something as thin as a B18 that has been bored to 84mm. Believe it or not, the Honda stock sleeves are pretty strong. Being stupid with your tune can blow anything up, "built" or not... that's the leading cause of disaster in turbo Hondas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Weston &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Cool. I'm considering a B20B for next season... I have a turbo B18B currently. Everyone said it would pop within 6 months, but it's been nearly 3 years now, and I've beaten the living **** out of it more times than I can even remember. I don't see a B20B/Z really being any different...

People say that the B20B/Z's cylinder walls are thin because it has a larger bore in the same size block... That would certainly be true if the block were really all aluminum, but it's not... unlike the Chevy Vega, our cylinders come with sleeves in them. If you were to bore a B18 from it's 81mm to the B20's 84mm, you would certainly weaken the cylinder walls because you're taking that metal out of the sleeve. However, the B20B/Z is designed from the factory to have an 84mm bore, so I would certainly expect it to come with an adequately sized sleeve, and not something as thin as a B18 that has been bored to 84mm. Believe it or not, the Honda stock sleeves are pretty strong. Being stupid with your tune can blow anything up, "built" or not... that's the leading cause of disaster in turbo Hondas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes honda stock sleeves are very strong for the most part. Thats why there are plenty of guys out there making 500+hp on stock sleeves. But the b20s design is different than all other bseries.

Its not just the thinness its the design of the b20 sleeves as well. Someone with more knowledge can chime as im not good at describing it, but they are inherintly weak by design. Whatever the exact reason for them being thin may be, its an indisputable fact that the b20 sleeves are the weakest of all honda bseries. Not only can you visually see this by comparing a b20 to any other b bloc, but searching through the archives of h-t there are hundreds of incidents all involving crack sleeves.

These incidents are far to plentifull to write off as poor tuning. Sure there will always be strong/freak motors and lucky people but theres really no debating the fact the design is far from optimal for serious power and prone to failure.

 

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/f...874.0

 

stick with the b18c

 

OMG TTT

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoon07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OMG TTT</TD></TR></TABLE>

why?