Just wondering if anyone has a afi ac ramhorn and has issues with the turbo hitting the block. I have shaved the block and the it still wont fit. Its hitting the block in the front where the tranny bolts too and I don't know what to do.

 

are you sure the turbo isnt meant to be turned the other way.

 

You can't keep ac id the turbo is the other way

 

What turbo? It shouldn't hit, hit them up..

 

Its just a Garrett 57 trim. I did call them and they are going to e-mail me some pics.

 

If the 57 trim that you're using utiliizes a T04E compressor cover, that may be the cause of it to hit against the webbing of the block. Unfortunately it is considered to be rather normal, even with the old drag turbo kits. You may have to get a grinder and shave that portion of the block off.

Although this example that I'm showing uses an T04S compressor cover (even larger) you will still have to do a bit of grinding with the T04E cover in most cases.

AFI A/C Ramhorn w/ GT66



Rear View for turbine housing and dumptube


Frontal


Notice how much material had to be removed from the block to fit the compressor cover in order to clear A/C compressor with a 3" downpipe. In this case for this turbocharger spacers had to be used since the housing (an S cover) was dangerously close to the area of the block that connects with the trans bell housing.



The flange is rotated in a way in which it causes the compressor cover to be closer to the block to clear the compressor on the other side.



In essence, time to get the grinder out and start working on it a bit more.. This is standard for the AFI (and many other companies "Ramhorn" manifolds) that this webbing is to be ground down if using a turbocharger utilizing a T04E or T04S compressor cover, including the standard Garrett 57 trim turbocharger.

 

I have taken more then that out and it still doesnt fit. Let me up load the pics

 

We shaved my buddy's block for that manifold and a garrett .60 trim...I think we took some metal off of the driver side of the engine stamp...we also had to shave the bleeder nipple off of the slave cylinder

 

You're still not going far enough. take a look at my 4th picture. I took more out towards the stamp than the actual webbing. The picture is not covering the number stamp and the extended piece of aluminum below it.. We cut that portion also. It just seems to align with the compressor cover to "blend in". You need to go almost into the block stamp and along its edge towards the webbing. The one pictured took over 30 min with air compressor grinder.

 

If you look at the pics of the manifold that The Shodan post it looks like the turbo flang on this manfild pushed the turbo away from the block more then mine does.

 

Do you have any pics of that block without the turbo mounted on it?

 

Sorry no. The engine has been installed and final touches are being done now.

 

Its hard to see just how much you had to take off. Doesnt seem like theres that much there and I was worried about the bolt hole for the tranny.

 

cut off the nipple sticking out and grind into the area where it says b16. do what you ahve to do to make it fit. its not the manifold its just how it is if you want ot keep ac brother.

 

As I described in my post, it was towards the back of the Nameplate stamp, slightly into and below the stamp. But that was for a T04S cover. You have to grind more than you got at those points. You may get close to that trans bolt hole, but for the T04E, you won't go through it.

 

Okay man I'll take your word for it.

 

Screw grinding that much off, return the manifold for one that will fit. Not to mention that it is illegal to grind off the engine identification number.

 

I'm with Joey on this one..

 

I spoke with them lastnight and the guy said he was going to text me some pics, but I never got a text your a returned pm.

 

ya no kidding. i understand trying to fab or modify it to fit, but thats just kinda ghetto. i would get one that fits right. If you can't do it right, then don't do it at all. not bashing you guys for making it work, just doesn't seem like a good idea to have to grind the block.

But more power to you guys if it works...

 

is that a four bolt exhaust on that turbo? i'm pretty sure the a/c kits are made for a 5 bolt housing.

 

Exactly. Most A/C Manifolds were designed for the (damned) 5 bolt turbine housings where they aren't crocked (sp?) at such an angle.

Most of us that do Grind the block have been doing it since 99. For T04Bs there's no need to, but for T04E and T04S, its almost a requirement. Even Drag kits w/ 5 bolt turbine housings required it. If you look on the pictures I supplied, the number plate is still there for identification.

For A/C, and "Ramhorn" and Big power, something's gotta give. We can't beat physics.
You're going to find that 90% of "Ramhorn" A/C quality manifolds will require this modification. Sending it back to purchase another one will simply more than likely require him to do the same thing.

 

I had to do the same with my E cover with my AFI kit. I didnt grind any of the webbing that you are. Only about a 1/4 inch and removed the tab under the ID plate.

I upgraded turbos to a precision 6262 with an S case and had to remove another 1/4 in off a larger area. LOL my Block no longer says B16A just B16 now but I managed to keep the ID numbers.

Maybe your manifold may be a little tweaked turing the FAB process throwing off the alignment a little. Maybe a replacement from AFI will help. Turns out after all the trouble I went through for AC I said screw it anyhow. With my traction bar now its def out of the question lol.

I sure hope your rotating that housing around to get the narrow portion against the block.....

 

I have an E cover on a blox log manifold and I had to grind a good bit of my block also.

 

I had no idea....I'm in the middle of a ramhorn install also, I didn't get this far yet but i did have to shave the upper p/s bracket down.