does anybody have any ideas of a better way to help cool the radiator with having a 95-97 integra front bumper? my fmic just consumes the cut out where outside air would enter to cool the radiator. im to the point of cutting a hole near the radiator to get more air into the radiator but i want it to look good and tacky. any ideas?

this guy has done this, but i dont want to go that far as to cutting it from one end to the other

 

This is what I did. I'm running a tucked scirocco radiator and never see above 192* ect. I did also block off all the open space around the radiator so all the air is forced threw it.

 

Definitely try this first. You could also try putting a lower air dam in place, would help scoop up cold air from the ground and shoot it up along the radiator.

What radiator/fan/shroud combo do you have right now? I'm assuming you've already made sure your coolant is good and there's no air in the lines.

Edit: Found a picture of what boosted94gsr was talking about with the block-offs. Just search "Radiator baffles" and you can find a lot of other ideas. I know people on these forums have done it with the half-rads on Civics.

 

i currently have a go auto works radiator but the one i have from them is some cheap shembay radiator they sold me. im fixing to get a fluidyne this week but i need to buy some additional fittings so i can feed water to my turbo. i have a 14in zirgo fan but i also have to deaL with texas heat.

 

Time to anodize that i/c. ;-)

 

As functional as it may be, I hate the way it looks. Id rather have a hood vent.

 

dude, ive been been seriously considering it for months now. i need something to get that damn heat out of the engine bay. not sure if i should get the type that has a hole over the mainfold or some vents on the side.

 

No sure your application, but my turbo racecar used to over heat after 10-20 minutes on track. Since my updates I have been 1 hour 15 minutes (90-95F air temps), without any issues, well besides a heat soaked intercooler, and over temp light on once entering the pits if I skip the cool down lap. At speed there is tons of air to keep the car cool, just need to make sure it is being used. Also I have no metal front bumper, only the bumper cover.

Fix:
Full size rad
Hole in hood
Duct work to make sure all air has to go through: intercooler, radiator, and oil cooler
Keeping radiator and intercooler about 1 inch apart
A good fan that has a lot of CFM, too help with in pits after time on track.
Pic for reference

Engine bay is old, but that is all I have to show the fullsize rad

 

When did you buy it from them if you don't mind me asking? I was planning on using either their half-size dual or triple core for one of my upcoming builds. I've never heard of issues with their rads before.

I'd definitely upgrade to the full size Fluidyne here first and try some of the less extreme fixes mentioned in this thread before defacing your bumper. Some 1 inch risers for the hood in the back, even the stock non vented hood may help some of that heat escape out the rear as well.

Edit: Lol, I just found the post by you from Team Integra - http://www.team-integra.net/forum/11...ml#post2566974

What issues are you having with it?

 

the fluidyne radiator im getting is a half core a friend of mine doesnt need anymore since he went with a 3 core radiator for his car.

i got the "go auto works" radiator around 2012-2013 after i bought the cx racing radiator. the issue i have with the go auto works radiator is that it look exactly, i mean exactly, like the cxracing radiator. the temps i was seeing with the cxracing radiator were the same as with go auto works radiator. things changed when i upgraded to a 14in zigro fan which covered the entire radiator. i havent driven the car much this year so i cant give you numbers as to what im seeing this time around but i dont like the fact that i was sold some, basically, a cheap radiator. i dont have the cxracing radiator but i wanted to cut both radiators in half to do a test to see if the insides matched. if they did, of course, i would make it known here to beware of go auto works radiators.

 

Thats basically what they sell....you didnt think they actually "made" the radiator itself did you? its a china radiator with their badge welded on. Which are actually not bad plenty of people have had luck with them.

im sure they have found the most reputable vendor available but it is what it is. Same goes with mishimoto skunk2 etc pretty sure there all made in china/taiwan, some are better then others. My mishimoto triple core seems a bit better then the skunk2 double core I previously had.....as to be expected. overall quality I would say mishimoto is the better of the two.

Heck even koyo has moved manufacturing to Taiwan or Indonesia I forget which. IMO fluidyne/koyo/ or a CSF is gonna be your best bet. skunk2/mishimoto/goauto are decent and work just fine for most setups........... heard great things about Koyo but never actually ran one theres some poor reveiws and no warranty after install so I had to pass

EDIT: Make sure you are using a SPAL fan. IMO far more important than the radiator itself

 

Updated with photos,

Also forgot to add

Heat Wrap everything
Keep Manifold and downpipe away from heat exchanges

My rad is a full size 3 core, there is some cutting and welding needed to make it fit

 

my ramhorn is heat treated but not wrapped. the guy that heat treated my manifold advice me to not wrap the manifold.

 

"Car" people tell me that all the time, reason rust and cracking. Well made manifolds will not have those issues, but it all steams from old schoolers with cheap V8 headers...

 

It depends somewhat on where you live how bad that effect will be. If you live up north where they salt the roads, it can be very bad and shorten the life of the manifold.

I notice OP/justYncredible is listed as living in San Antonio. I also live/am from Texas, and am familiar how bloody hot it gets down here.

It would probably be worthwhile to get a nice turbo blanket for the exhaust housing if you don't have one already, and possibly consider wrapping the manifold. If you do use any wrap, I'd recommend using the DEI titanium stuff. I've had issues myself and seen other people that have had the standard wrap fall apart and crumble after a handful of heat cycles.

A turbo blanket could arguably shorten the life of the turbo's bearings and seals somewhat, but honestly lowering your underhood temps and IAT's would be worth it.

Edit: Plenty of pictures online of wrapped ram horns, but here's how I did the one on my S2K. I wrapped the runners in pairs, and had both sides converge at the flange merge; It's pretty much impossible on most rams to do each runner individually. Ended up not even running this manifold though due to spatial constraints in the bay, would have been limited to a 28 frame turbo:

 

the guy that heat treated my manifold is an old schooler indeed and had a few articles to back his claims as well. it would suck, for me, having to wrap my manifold due to the aesthetics of it. i had some wording painted on it, yeah i know kill me for it. my turbo does have a turbo blanket installed on it (DEI) and it helped drastically with cabin heat. as mentioned before from a fellow Texan, this heat we deal with is brutal in such a way that you typical dont drive your car during the summer months.

cluelessmale:
i would love to have a full core radiator instead of a half core but my wastegate is just in the way of this becoming a reality. ill start with hood spacers to see if that helps the hot air escape from the engine bay. also, the general purpose of my vehicle is just to drive it to work when im able to, lol!

 

Yea I had the same issues that is my the manifold, I cut the flange off, made the runner to move the wastegate. Mine is racecar and drive maybe every other weekend to a car meet, too old to not have A/C in a daily.

 

Mishimoto half-size tri core + Spal 1700CFM fan + Shroud + DEI Radiator Relief

https://www.designengineering.com//c...or-relief-16oz

Do eeet.

 

trust me i feel you bro on driving without a/c thats why i have other options vehicles to drive outside of my teg. if i get my wastegate flange cut to go to a bigger size i would keep your design in mind.

 

i dont trust those non engineered fan shrouds homie. i made one myself and they dont work like you may think. they create negative pressure at the four corners of the shroud. just take a look at a stock shroud versus the one they sell.

 

If you're running a half sized dual core right now with no shroud, in conjunction with a ramhorn, then I'm not surprised at all you're overheating.

I'm almost certain a proper aluminum shroud would benefit you. I've never heard of a situation where one did not.

 

my 14in fan covers the entire radiator. i havent over heated but i really dont try and drive my teg in 105+ degree weather. from my experience, nothing you can do can really save you from road heat, traffic and 105+ degree heat. if i put a shroud on my radiator itll have to have a funnel design since that is what works best. auto manufactures have that design for a reason and i spoke to some engineers about it at my job about it.