I had the slow-prime in my favorite good ol P28 and AFTER replacing all the caps with some nice Rubycons, I started trying to remove the IC17 but had no solder wick and its not available except online around here since all electronics stores have closed

I have basic tools only, SR flux, Weller adjustable iron, an electric solder pump-but its a beast and it's one tip is too large for that area, although I tried. ******* thing was like it was riveted in there.

Ended up just breaking it off and trying to extract pins (the ones with the most solder not removed) individually
Still have two holes I cant clear. I think bending the ic over a few times to break the legs probably distorted the pins, and hammered the pads pretty badly on the board.
Seems like such a ******** move now, but I got frustrated and lost patience.

...very sad.... those traces are delicate, and I'm afraid I may have fucked up my ecu, will have to see when China IC's arrive in what seems like forever. I wish I'd waited to swap the caps now, was about to pull old socket and install S300, TG I didn't do that yet.
I have a spare virgin board, but this one is my OG, been thru it with me, wanted to keep it going.

I saw posts of guys from yesteryear on here, saying they replace "10 a month" "all the time", etc...I'd like to know how to perform this operation smoothly?
Has anybody any tips on removal without pro level tools?

I am wondering if I would've had a better outcome simply waiting and using wick, I think so.
The wick seems like its good for de-soldering an empty hole, but will it pull the solder from around the pins of an inserted component?

Sounds like a stupid question, it's designed for that I'm sure, would just like to hear from someone who had good outcome, that was depressing.

 

Wick and flux will do the trick. You can replace traces with wires too. The right tools make everything easier.