All these years i been wanting a Hatch and finally go got one. I had a H22 laying around so i took it too a friend to swap for me. I just got the car back and it drives great for about 10-15 mins then the CEL turn on then the car start driving weak. like lost of power/ acceleration until i hit about 4000-4500 rpm then it rev normal in each gear. I found out that if i turn my engine off then the problem would go away until the 10-15 min mark then the problem repeats. I know there might be hundred of threads out there with the answer, but im new here and goggled everything i could of and im still not sure of what to do. Most of the result from my searches are for code 43. i dont know if there is a special treatment for code 1 and 43 combo.

So if anyone know the answer to my problem please let me know.

P.s. im a newbie to this, so bear with my understanding. Thanks!

 

1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
67 Catalyst low efficiency. (same as P0420)
70 Automatic Transmission Malfunction w/AT Controls
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow

 

What ecu are you running?

 

P28, i have a Si so i just used that. its rewired for the h22 already. I have a vtec controller and i set the fuel consumption up higher and notice my car runs a little longer. could it be my fuel filter since i use a aftermarket one? it look just like the fuse bypass for a stereo system. I did this because there weren't any room for my factory fuel filter

 

You don't need the VAFC period. I would check for loose wires on the oxygen sensor #1.

What basemap is on the p28? or is it just a stock p28?

 

^x2

 

Yea with a virgin stock p28 I would imagine you would have issues with that ecu. You need to wire it up for an H22 eco for max performance with a stock motor, unless you have some sort of engine mgt. your running, and getting it tuned.

 

I have no idea how my P28 is wired. But it does have some extra wires from he plug into my ecu. So what kind of Ecu do i need to buy for my civic to run with an h22?

I notice the check engine light turns on when my rmp is constant. when i play with my rears or rapid revs it doesnt turn on. have anyone had this problem and know y?

Sorry again. I'm new to this

 

You need a chip p28 with a basemap for the h22. You said your car is an EG so that indicates it being obd1. You can either chip your p28 or buy one that is already chipped.

PM me if you need one.

 

i had a similar problem, in my case the TPS throttle position sensor was the problem, the oxygen sensor can definitely trigger fuel problems, if you check engine light doesnt turn on right away, i dont think its a wiring problem, there might be a glitch in the tps or it might not be properly adjusted..