I competed in stereo compititions for 15 years and managed a stereo shop for 10, so I know alot about current myself. I am going to have to agree to disagree with you on this subject. These cars are usually underweight anyway. Why skimp on the battery and spend more money on a shitty little battery and then more money on a stronger alternator only to risk it having trouble starting when you get in the staging lanes. With a stronger battery, you can also do other things without the risk of of running the battery down like running a fan or having the ignition on for datalogging or whatever. It just doesn't make since to me. I have experience running both and gave up on the tiny batteries along time ago. And I am going to disagree with you about a bigger battery having a voltage drop as well. Like I said before, my car with a stock alternator and a stock size crappy auto zone battery mounted in the trunk even, does not change more than .2 volts during a run. I see what you are doing with the small battery and alternator and understand that, but in our cars that have to meet a weight anyway, it would not be the system of choice for me.

 

It's pretty simple guys. The battery is only going to supply about 12v. If you want 13.5-14v, the alternator HAS to be able to keep up with the current requirements. If the alternator can't keep up, you're going to fall back to battery voltage.

I'm on both sides, I hate small batteries because you usually get f*cked at some point with a car that won't start. A good alternator is important if you want to maintain over 12v through the run.

That new XS Power regulated lithium battery setup that Titan has on the Supra is pretty sick. Really freaking expensive, but sick. 6lbs and no alternator and can maintain a regulated power supply up to 18v i think it is.

 

I agree, but the only reason the voltage would drop is if the the battery was so small that the system had to run on the alternator alone and the current being drawn was greater than the alternator and battery combo could produce. Then as more current was drawn, the voltage would start dropping. If the battery has enough energy stored, the alternator doesn't have to do all of the work. My whole point is that a stock honda alternator and battery supply plenty of current when used together and we don't need to get people to spend extra money on expensive alternators and batteries when the only advantage would be weight savings when we usually have to add weight anyway. If i were going to spend money on this it would be a 16 or 18 volt battery like you are talkign about to eliminate the alternator. The only reason I haven't done that already is that you always have to run the charger between rounds and if you get stuck in the lanes for a long time, you really shouldn't run the car to warm it up. To do it correctly, you would need a whole team with a support vehicle, and that is not in the budget.LOL

 

Yeah, I like a big battery, but I had voltage issues on my car with a stock alternator with a decent size Kinetic battery. I added up all the current draw on my car and all the high power electronics consume quite a bit more than a normal setup. Big fan, big fuel pump, big water pump, big CDI box, ecu, etc. I'm very close to 100amps at full steam.

 

yeah, mine draws around 200 if the subs are playing.LOL

 

Lots of great info guys thank u all for your support , the only reason i am running the oddesey batt is for space , due to T1 catch can and my intercooler set up is not back door , so im really out of space my next thing would have to be to either make a back door set up or place batt in the trunk , which i really dont want to do ,but back to the subject im going to give it a shot with a normal size batt and to see what happens.

 

My 12V Odyssey with no alt would read 13.5V at idle and in lower rpm. At high RPM it would drop to 10.8 volts. Swap alternators and see if it helps. That sounds like a good place to start at least.

 

If you have a fresh 16V you can run all day without a charge no sweat. One of my friends drives his sfwd car 30 minutes out in the sticks to downtown, street races all night, then comes home all on the battery with no alt. They go forever if you have a good battery.

 

did you see the price on that battery! 2100+ $$$$$$$$$$$$$ BALLER!
like tony said add up your draw and see if your amperage exceeds your alternator! you want your electronics to run of the alternator if possable! i understand what your saying danny as well i owned my own stereo shop for 8 years and competed in all forms of sounds off myself, different strokes for different folks! my advice is an alternator upgrade! just my 2 cents! lithium power for the win if you can afford it!

 

sport front cant run 16volts! lol rules rules rules,

 

i saw the link on the first page, but does anyone have any other sources for high amp alternators for OBD1 b-series?

$2,000 battery??? wow, just wow...

 

http://stores.ebay.com/Grand-Alterna...Q_sidZ21271081

ebay but you never know?

 

where does everyone get their high output alternators done at ? any reputable places ?

 

thats a stupid rule.

 

Hey A train is this one of the best places to get the alternators from ? are they pretty reliable ?

 

i agree!

i purchased a 200 amp alternator from them for a car i was doing some work on and it works flawless! the owner actually gave me the car after i was done with it , so yeah going strong and no problems! and to my friend tara who gave me the car! i love ya girl and to my friend grimace you will be missed! rip!

 

I can't find that rule in any of the current rule books. I didn't bother looking at NHRA swfd cause there is no such thing.