I'm rebuilding my head and need some input before buying anything. I had valve to valve contact bending a valve obviously. I'm going with Ferrea 6000 valves. I currently have REV dual springs but I don't know the specs so I'm going to replace the springs as well. I feel like the cause of the valves hitting was due to valve float. I was recommended to go with supertech 80lb springs. Its a b16 with an s366 that will see 35+psi and I'd like to safely rev to 10k. Was only turning 9600 when this happened. Using ITR cams. It's a track only car so if I should go with a higher seat pressure spring I will. Just need input. I planned to use my current REV retainers assuming they will work with the supertech springs. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

 

supertech 80lb springs with supertech ti retainers is what I am using in my new head along with those ferrea 6000valves.

 

Ferrea 100 psi seat pressure springs
And set em up for 110 psi seat pressure

 

x2. I would run something stronger than 80lbs on the seat at 10,000RPM with 35psi of boost . . .

The boost pressure is going to try and push open the valves requiring you to put more load on the seat. If it was N/A the supertech 80lbs would probably be fine.

 

Okay, what springs should I be looking at in 100#? Doesn't seem to be easy to find above 85#.

 

I used ITR cams to 10,500 with 85lbs on the seat for MANY years... Too much spring pressure wears cams, guides and rockers.

 

Good to know. I trust yours and Wes' knowledge. You also recommend super tech springs or something else?

 

I have used Super Tech without an issue but when in the budget I prefer Ferrea

 

I have no problem paying for the better product.

 

Think about it this way: Is 50lbs on the seat enough to turn 10,000RPM on ITR cams? That is essentially what you are asking the spring to do with 35psi.

 

I follow what you're saying and have no problem going with a stiffer spring, however two guys who have been 8s are saying 80-85 is enough.

 

It was enough at 50+psi at over 10k for years on end. Well over 300 passes..


RLZ does a lot of heads for the fastest cars in country. I would think that they would have a clue on what to use.

 

I appreciate everyone's help. I'll go with the lighter springs.

 

Seeing how it's a drag car and not a street car I'd prob take my chances on the stiff springs and use a good zinc content oil...
Much easier to replace itr cams and rocker arms then ur tore block and turbo that has engine bits going through it..
I myself got a similar setup with the same goals and drag use and I sent my head off to 4pistons and opted for there ferrea competition valves and full ferrea valvetrain and they set the seat pressure at 110..
Wear and tear of course will be a factor but I wana keep the parts in there to have wear then to be pulling em out in pieces..
My 2 cents

 

How many on a spintron?

 

Lol if only we raced on a test bench....

 

That's hard to read.
You think that a few more PSI on the seat will help you keep the the engine from blowing up?

 

No not at all
I've been where he is and dropped some valves and lost my engine (block,pistons,head,turbo,Ect) and this Time around I wanted to lower the chances of that happening again, kinda why I chose all the ferrea stuff and it was suggested to me to run that seat pressure.. I know some guys running them at 100 and using brad pen racing oil and there drag cars not seeing any big wear and tear on cams..
But for my own reasons when weighing out the good and bad about having a softer spring vs a stiffer one I chose the stiffer

 

You don't want to measure valve float on the most accurate machine out there for measuring valve float?

I've been lucky enough to watch several pulls on a spintron at a NHRA pro stock shop . . . they seem to think its worthwhile at 10,000-10,500RPM . . . ?

 

As far as I know that Rev spring is the same as a ST. At least they were when they sent us some samples. There are several different ones, so you would need to check the pressure. Supertech also has a newer high pressure spring SPRK-H200DR...it does say in their catalog that it has a 2 hour max life. That pretty much sums it up :p

I'd recommend the Ferrea set up for 110lbs. Works on stuff well over 1300hp and 11k rpm, and can run all season as long as everything is in control. The extra seat pressure can wear harder on the rocker and cam, but that stuff can be replaced a lot cheaper than losing a motor.

 

While some of you experienced guys are in here. I measured the very end of the valve. Both intake and exhaust came out about .3mm larger than what I read the stock valves to be. Am I just not measuring the correct part? The head was built prior to me acquiring the motor and supposedly had +1 exhaust valves. I just want to be sure I order the correct size valves.

 

Stock valve size is 33mm intake and 28mm exhaust correct?

 

 

You need to measure the valve at those points but with the calipers rotated 90* to be parallel with the top of the valve.

As you have it, you cannot guarantee that you are at the full radius. It will also move the measuring point to the widest part of the caliper arm giving you a more accurate reading as well.

 

pro stock class is my favorite class in all of drag racing. the best side by side racing you'll watch. sorry for getting off topic