traction bar settings
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seen a thread about this a while back but now i cant find it for the life of me.
so, what are the "preferred" settings for traction bars ? dont say take it into an alignment shop, almost all of them only know how to fallow the book. i wanna know what to tell them to do when i take it in.
my car is a 97 DX coupe and ill be using LSD / JK motorsports traction bars.
so, what are the "preferred" settings for traction bars ? dont say take it into an alignment shop, almost all of them only know how to fallow the book. i wanna know what to tell them to do when i take it in.
my car is a 97 DX coupe and ill be using LSD / JK motorsports traction bars.
I adjusted ours to keep pressure on the LCA as the car wanted to lift the front end. So I lenghtened them a turn. I really didn't do a scientific study. We ran a wheelie bar so we didn't have much lift.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zex_cool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, im still looking. best answer i could find is, "run as much positive caster as you can."
how much is to much ? 3* ? 5* ? </TD></TR></TABLE>
if its a drag only car, as much as the control arm will let you
how much is to much ? 3* ? 5* ? </TD></TR></TABLE>
if its a drag only car, as much as the control arm will let you
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtekthis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if its a drag only car, as much as the control arm will let you
</TD></TR></TABLE>or bumper. 
thats why i asked, because i drive it on the street regularly. what i've read is if you run as much caster as you can it creates a really bad toe-out situation and it makes the car "unstable" if the steering gets a little off center.
so, i still have no idea what to tell them to do.
</TD></TR></TABLE>or bumper. 
thats why i asked, because i drive it on the street regularly. what i've read is if you run as much caster as you can it creates a really bad toe-out situation and it makes the car "unstable" if the steering gets a little off center.
so, i still have no idea what to tell them to do.
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just last week we had my car on an alignment rack, its got 2.5 degrees of positive caster, i can get more out of it, but would require getting new radius rods. (not that big of a deal)
we have never had the orange coupe on an alignment rack, but have managed 1.36 60's from the car.. still workin on it...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zex_cool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or bumper. 
thats why i asked, because i drive it on the street regularly. what i've read is if you run as much caster as you can it creates a really bad toe-out situation and it makes the car "unstable" if the steering gets a little off center.
so, i still have no idea what to tell them to do.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is why you get the most carter you can. then do an alignment to set the toe. yea, caster affects toe but it can be straightend out. theres also the thought that just yanking the traction bars fwd puts too much stress on the lca bushings. so your other option is to swap the uca's left to right. then youll get some good caster and be able to take some stress off the lca bushings by running the traction bars in such a way that the lca bushing isnt being pulled.
-

thats why i asked, because i drive it on the street regularly. what i've read is if you run as much caster as you can it creates a really bad toe-out situation and it makes the car "unstable" if the steering gets a little off center.
so, i still have no idea what to tell them to do.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is why you get the most carter you can. then do an alignment to set the toe. yea, caster affects toe but it can be straightend out. theres also the thought that just yanking the traction bars fwd puts too much stress on the lca bushings. so your other option is to swap the uca's left to right. then youll get some good caster and be able to take some stress off the lca bushings by running the traction bars in such a way that the lca bushing isnt being pulled.
-
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zex_cool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> dont say take it into an alignment shop, almost all of them only know how to fallow the book. i</TD></TR></TABLE> Very true. We put a set of FullRace bars on my buddy's hatch, and had one of are alighment guys take a look at it. They didn't really want to mess with it. There so stuck on there old ways.
In for more info.
In for more info.
In for more infoI have a set of full race bars I will be setting up soon and some info would be sweet!
From what it says on FUll-Race's website you are supposed to set your alignment to where you want and then tighten the traction bars so they hold that alignment, not to move the alignment with the bars
Modified by logg_frogg at 12:44 PM 5/3/2008
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took it in today and they could only get like .9* of caster. there is like 5 threads left but they didnt even wanna try to really mess w/ it i guess.
rods seem to be to long to get anything good out of it anyways.
edit: i jst tightened the rods as much as they would go. will see how it does at the track tomorrow. did a 1.79 last year with a SOHC on bfg dr's.
Modified by zex_cool at 6:39 PM 5/3/2008
rods seem to be to long to get anything good out of it anyways.

edit: i jst tightened the rods as much as they would go. will see how it does at the track tomorrow. did a 1.79 last year with a SOHC on bfg dr's.
Modified by zex_cool at 6:39 PM 5/3/2008
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