So here's the story. I was doing so rewiring of the car last weekend and let my friend help out. Well long story short, I do to move the car, and nothing, so power to the igntion whatsoever. Furthur investigation shows a harness cut with some large gauge wires in it. (pic)

Well, I figure now is a good time to do a push start and eliminate the ignition lock all together. Anyone got any ideas on what I need to do with the wiring here? All of the wires on the plug going to the fusebox (which come from the column) are all intact. If you look behind it, you will see a cut harness. The are two large wires in it, one solid whit, the other white w/black stripe. Help would be appreciated!

 

bumps i want to know too

 

 

you will find your answer in HERE

 

I have a manual, I just suck with wiring diagrams.

 

all you need to do is break off the ignition lock unplug all the wires that go to the stock ignition. then run a wire to a momentary switch then to the starter solenoid. obviously leave the big power wire directly from teh battery to the starter hooked up. this is my switch cluster. the big red covered switch is the master the little red button is the starter signal switch.

i just got done rewiring the whole car so ill take pics once my camera is charged. damn batteries go dead so quickly. here are a couple pics from in the process of rewiring it.

 

what is the amperage of the toggle switch that you used?

 

i dont know ill see if i can find it from the original box. i know its not very high amperage. i believe i have the main switch and all accessories on a 30A breaker.
this includes MSD box, lights, tach power, ECU power, fuel pump, starter signal, fan, voltage regulator.

 

sorry, i forgot about the pics yesterday. anyways, heres the finished product. it didnt quite come out as clean as i had hoped but still its not terrible. in some of the pics you can obviously see that i left the factory length wiring for my wideband controller etc. this was in case i change over wiring at a later date i dont have to solder in extra lengths of wire to make up for what i had cut off. also the factory wiring to the motor was a pain to make look right to i just left it ugly as you can see. i still have the option to check for CELs with a little light bulb that i have yet to mount anywhere. it was a real pain in the *** seperating the interior harness form the engine harness cause there isnt a whole lot of info out there. i even have a integra and civic helms but even they dont tell exactly what wires go where and to/from etc. eventually i got it and it ran great until i killed my motor.

 

Doesn't look bad at all. How did you mount the 2-step button to the ****?

Could you give me a brief step by step on the push button? I really do not want to use and of the factory harness wire since I now have now clue what my friend did to it.

Here is what mine came out like. I just need to get rid of the gay steering wheel and paint that ecu plate. I thought it was stainless, but guess not.


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what part of the factory harness are you using? you can bypass the factory keyed switch for starting purposes but you will have to wire in some sort of main switch to give power to the ECU and other accessories.

heres a pic of my 2 step button. i just got some 3/4" aluminum put it in a vise bent a "Z" in it and drilled 2 holes, one for the button and one to fit the shifter through. the pic is pretty shitty cause i took it through my front windshield but you get the idea.

i checked on the amperage of the momentary switch and it says 3A@120V.

 

Damn, props on the shifter. I didn't even think of that.

Basicly, the lights, gauges, fuel pump, rad. fan are on the switch panel. I thought that the ecu and whatnot didn't get power from the ignition switch (which I thought was the reason you have disconnect battery/ecu fuse to clear it out. I would like everything to work normal minus the engine start. Thanks for your help!

 

looking over some of the helms manual will show you what gets constant power at the ECU and what gets switched power. well this is the way i understand it anyways. i havent had any CELs for very long so i havent had the time to get to test and make sure the memory is working on my ECU. i could be wrong but im pretty sure some of the power to the ECU is switched. ::shrugs::

 

hmm. so you (1 2 NV) got rid of the interior/floor harness?? just kept what was needed for the ecu im guessing.

so you can run a switch to give power to the ecu and distributor and all that stuff?? any other place to get info on this besides a helms manual??

sorry for the questions.

 

^^^^Thats my ? Did you just get rid of everything but what you need for the ecu and rewired all the rest of the stuff?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nerdsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm. so you (1 2 NV) got rid of the interior/floor harness?? just kept what was needed for the ecu im guessing.

so you can run a switch to give power to the ecu and distributor and all that stuff?? any other place to get info on this besides a helms manual??

sorry for the questions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes i got rid of the interior/floor harness. it really was a pain in the *** for the simple fact theres not much if any info. after spending countless hours trouble shooting i had some help from a guy that makes custom harnesses.
all i really did when asking him questions was verify what i had figured out. if i knew what i knew then it would have been a simple simple task, still time consuming none the less cause of rewiring the taillights, tach and the rest of the electronics you have to wire up.
feel free to ask all the questions you need to id be glad to help. this is especially fresh in my head because i finished this project up about 3 months ago or so.